Sticking caliper?

Bigmd

New member
Ok , converted to tundra brakes two years ago. Went with 13we. I didn't have any brake problems until I put on steel wheels and heavy all terrain tires. I would start to get a shudder in steering wheel after high speeds in highway coming onto off ramp. I attributed it to the heavy rim/tire combo. I got tired of all that and went back to factory rims and tires. I bought new pads and rotors too. When changing them the pass side rotor was cracked. My mechanic showed me and replaced it. This was only a few months ago. lately when driving on highways I started getting the pulsating in steering wheel again after the brakes are nice and hot. The other day it was real bad almost violent, I thought something was really wrong. Luckily I was getting off the highway and a few mins from home. I have since learned that rotor warpage is a myth. It could be pad material building up on disc. I talked to my mechanic on phone and he said Toyota calipers can get stuck and it's a possibility that's the problem. Anyone experience this? I checked rockauto and they have all the parts to rebuild calipers.
 
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Ok , converted to tundra brakes two years ago. Went with 13we. I didn't have any brake problems until I put on steel wheels and heavy all terrain tires. I would start to get a shudder in steering wheel after high speeds in highway coming onto off ramp. I attributed it to the heavy rim/tire combo. I got tired of all that and went back to factory rims and tires. I bought new pads and rotors too. When changing them the pass side rotor was cracked. My mechanic showed me and replaced it. This was only a few months ago. lately when driving on highways I started getting the pulsating in steering wheel again after the brakes are nice and hot. The other day it was real bad almost violent, I thought something was really wrong. Luckily I was getting off the highway and a few mins from home. I have since learned that rotor warpage is a myth. It could be pad material building up on disc. I talked to my mechanic on phone and he said Toyota calipers can get stuck and it's a possibility that's the problem. Anyone experience this? I checked rockauto and they have all the parts to rebuild calipers.

Yes, this is possible. It happened to my 4th gen. It would pulsate, steering wheel pulsation and pull left when braking. Increased with abrupt braking. I didn't rebuild, should have, bought new centric calipers, rotors and pads from rock auto. Currently, I have the same thing happening with my 3rd gen and will be converting to Tundra brakes 13WL. Waiting on caliper repair kit.
 
My .02

Steering wheel vibrations are fixed by Toyota Service Bulletin TSB SU002-96 - our wheels are lug-centric and most shops balance them as hub-centric. The tire shop needs a tool sometimes called a finger plate adapter. I was told it costs $400. It is necessary to properly balance the tires on 3rd gen 4runners.

Sticking caliper syndrome can be caused by leaking rear axle seals. The gear oil on the drums/shoes affects the whole braking system. It took me a long time and two sets of new front calipers before I figured this one out.
 
Well that's interesting , the last time I had work done my guy noticed some oil coming from rear axle seal. So once you fixed the seal, all was well?
 
yep, the problem with my sticking front caliper was only the rear brakes getting oil on shoes and drum. As soon as the axle seal was replaced the issue with the front caliper went away. For me I noticed the sticking caliper when coming to a slow stop. Right at the end of a stop it would grab and actually skid the front tire a bit. new rear axle seals was the fix.

I also chased that steering wheel shimmy for years before I became a believer in the finger plate adapter. My steering wheel has been shimmy-free for 5 years now. It drives like a Lexus.
 
Easy to check if it is a sticking caliper. Next time you drive it for a while, stop and put your hand on each of the front rims. If one is much hotter than the other the brake/caliper is dragging.
 
Thanks guys. Luckily it's my secondary vehicle. Gonna drop off for my guy to look at next week. Hopefully it's not that bad.
 
Had the same exact issue with my 13WE calipers. Jacked my drivers side wheel to do something else and I had a hard time turning the tire. It did turn though. I jacked the passenger side and it was fine. Ordered the caliper rebuild kit from Camelback (does both calipers) and ordered some new pistons. I think the old one would have cleaned up ok. Problem is when taking the pistons out I used the brake hydraulics to push them out almost all the way and still jacked up the little ridge on the edge of the piston so I ended up needing a couple anyway. The main issue is right under the dust seal on the edge of the bore of the caliper was very corroded. Kind of rusty. Impeded the expansion and withdrawal of the pistons. My seals were fine. No leaking. Cleaned up the bore with some fine emory cloth and rebuilt the rest of the caliper. I also taped up the bore and painted to the very edge where the seal covers so the rust wouldn't develop there again. Now the caliper is very smooth and backs off like its supposed to with that little spring thing in there. About 3 months later and after a long trip and about 3000 miles my other caliper did the same thing. Now their both good as new.
 
Ok guys took the truck out today and sure enough my left wheel is hot to touch. Right wheel not at all. I'm guessing stuck caliper . Would explain my slight pull to the left when driving or coasting. Maybe it's from driver side rear axle seal leaking.
 
That front drivers side caliper is your problem. You might have issues with the rear brakes having diff oil on them too, but that is a separate problem. Fix the front calipers first since that is your main braking and the more important priority
 
The rear wheel leaking can effect your steering but your problems could also be completely caused by the front caliper sticking. Friction causes heat and you have a lot of heat on your driver side front. If none of your other wheels are hot that means your problem is with just that front drivers side wheel and not the rest of the system. Concentrate on that first and it may clear up your problems
 
How best to check axle seal leaking on rear solid axles?

I have pulsating at highway driving and breaking as well. Break pad level checks out okay..

I am thinking sticking caliper or warped roters also.. but want to rule out rear axle leaking.

I am thinking about doing the tundra break mod.

Thanks.
 

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