Stuck / Seized Lug Nut Lock

H

honda99ex

New member
2014 4Runner with the aftermarket TRD Forged Rims. The Wanna Be Faux Bead Lock ones. I've had it since new. Anyhow my lug nuts, the ones that are the lock have either seized or been severely overtightened. I have snapped not 1 but 2 keys. 1 sheared off the key part, the other broke the actual housing of the key lock.... Turns out the lugs are made special for Toyota by McGard. I called them and they were very helpful. They sent me these pound on removal tools but to no avail. They are not gripping.

The lug nut lock is perfectly cylindrical with the key pattern on top. Not the greatest design as the "key" is only 2mm depth or so.

Any how what are my options for getting them off??? For sure I have one stuck but I could have all 4 stuck for all I know..

I mean I don't even care if I break the stud at this point.... that I can replace.

HELP!!!!

Thanks in Advance
 
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I had this happen on one of my cars. Tried a futile attempt at plug welding nuts onto the leftover bolt face but they wouldn't hold under torque. Ultimately I had to drill them out very carefully with a large diameter drill, being very careful to avoid damaging the taper on the wheel. It took a while and a lot of swearing but I got it done.

Unfortunately I think you'd be in for replacing a wheel stud if you did this since the T4R uses nuts. I lucked out on that car because it used lug bolts, so I just backed out the remainder of the bolt and put in fresh bolts after I finally got it removed.
 
honda99ex said:
2014 4Runner with the aftermarket TRD Forged Rims. The Wanna Be Faux Bead Lock ones. I've had it since new. Anyhow my lug nuts, the ones that are the lock have either seized or been severely overtightened. I have snapped not 1 but 2 keys. 1 sheared off the key part, the other broke the actual housing of the key lock.... Turns out the lugs are made special for Toyota by McGard. I called them and they were very helpful. They sent me these pound on removal tools but to no avail. They are not gripping.

The lug nut lock is perfectly cylindrical with the key pattern on top. Not the greatest design as the "key" is only 2mm depth or so.

Any how what are my options for getting them off??? For sure I have one stuck but I could have all 4 stuck for all I know..

I mean I don't even care if I break the stud at this point.... that I can replace.

HELP!!!!

Thanks in Advance
Click to expand...

take it to a tire shop, throw money at them and be done with it. Any competent tire shop can fix this in a pinch. Otherwise, good luck.
 
If drilling is your last resort, try over torquing the the other lugs up in 5 lb increments to relieve pressure off of the locking lug. Even if you **** up your studs, you'd be replacing some anyway after drilling

also, you tried pulling the locking nut off first, before removing other lugs, right?
 
CF_Machete said:
If drilling is your last resort, try over torquing the the other lugs up in 5 lb increments to relieve pressure off of the locking lug. Even if you **** up your studs, you'd be replacing some anyway after drilling

also, you tried pulling the locking nut off first, before removing other lugs, right?
Click to expand...

Yeah tried the lock nut first. I don't have many shots at it cause the key bit doesn't bite well so it either slips or deforms/ breaks. Not the best design IMO. 2mm of key depth, maybe another 3mm wrapped around the lug nut but not gripping it... Plus they said because it's a narrow design nut, the pound out tool is only 3/8" drive so I can't even put that much torque on it....
 
I did this once by chamfering the outer edge with a dremel then pounding the right sized 12 point socket on it. And yes you should tighten the two on either side to unload it. Good luck!
 
3 broken keys later.... Got 1 off clean, shattered the next 3 locks. One already took a piece of the rim with it. ARG!

2cdcrhd.jpg


Maybe has something to do with the fact that they are not Mag Seat just Conical??? They all got put back on from the same shop same time so makes no sense that the locks are "welded" on while the regular nuts are not. The remaining shards are still attached. I'll have to get them drilled out but at least I can see the studs.... =(

If any one has any genius ways to get the remnants out without drilling please share. Liquid is WD40. They basically all look like that. A sharp piece that I can't grip......

no5w5w.jpg
 
Try a chisel and split the remaining wall then grab with the needle nose vise-grip and twist off.......then replace the stud. Oyyyy!
 
Is that a threaded lock piece around the stud still? At this point I would get out the air chisel and replace the wheel and stud if I had to once I damage it. That's just me though, there may be a saner way of going about this. Can't imagine how you could turn that last little piece off if it's what it looks like.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Get some kind of Blaster penetrating fluid...do a test spot on the rim to make sure it doesn't damage the finish...let it soak overnight.
 
kenwilliams0803 said:
Is that a threaded lock piece around the stud still? At this point I would get out the air chisel and replace the wheel and stud if I had to once I damage it. That's just me though, there may be a saner way of going about this. Can't imagine how you could turn that last little piece off if it's what it looks like.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yup the bottom edge of the lock is still on there.The other two wheels have even less lock fragment on there. The one pictured I have a 0.0001% chance of grabbing something, the others probably nil...


Titanpat57 said:
Get some kind of Blaster penetrating fluid...do a test spot on the rim to make sure it doesn't damage the finish...let it soak overnight.
Click to expand...

I only had WD40 on hand. I can't get to the shop for a couple of days so I'm just going to hit it repeatedly with a few shots and give it a go again before having them drill it out. I don't really care about the finish at this point in the whole scheme of things....

83Mule said:
Try a chisel and split the remaining wall then grab with the needle nose vise-grip and twist off.......then replace the stud. Oyyyy!
Click to expand...

I was banging away but with limited access I was doing a fair bit of marring the actual wheel on the outer rim of the lug nut holes. It's almost easier just to drill the stud cause I can fit a socket perfect in the hole and then drill through that which if done perfect I think will ultimately damage the wheel the least. That one in particular took a piece of the wheel already at the seat...
 
Here's a pic of the lock vs the regular nut. Again this was OEM and on the truck when I purchased new, not something I bought aftermarket.

wcl0xs.jpg


The lock doesn't have a washer seat. Just find it extremely odd that only the locks were problematic. My own mechanic had removed the wheels last to do the brakes. And he doesn't use an air impact....
 
Stuck lug nut

I agree with the previous post. Blaster is your friend.., spray it in there and let it sit for 5 minuets, spray it again and let it sit for a while longer.
If there’s any way to get some heat on it, try that. One of the mini soldering torches, you can pick one up for $15-$20. The heat will expand the lug nut slightly and break down the corrosion on the nut.
One word about the Blaster.., wipe it off any exposed surfaces, it’ll eat the finish off. Leave it on overnight, your paint will be gone.
This is why no one takes my wheels on or off but me. Always remove any corrosion from your lug nuts, studs and mounting surfaces when you have your wheels off. Lightly spray with a drying silicone spray before mounting and anti seize your studs.
 
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Soupbean said:
I agree with the previous post. Blaster is your friend.., spray it in there and let it sit for 5 minuets, spray it again and let it sit for a while longer.
If there’s any way to get some heat on it, try that. One of the mini soldering torches, you can pick one up for $15-$20. The heat will expand the lug nut slightly and break down the corrosion on the nut.
One word about the Blaster.., wipe it off any exposed surfaces, it’ll eat the finish off. Leave it on overnight, your paint will be gone.
This is why no one takes my wheels on or off but me. Always remove any corrosion from your lug nuts, studs and mounting surfaces when you have your wheels off. Lightly spray with a drying silicone spray before mounting and anti seize your studs.
Click to expand...

I would not put anti seize on your studs, it will cause you to way over torque your lug nuts.
 
I agree - I don't think you are supposed to put anything on wheel studs. Make sure they are dry and the threads are clean - that's it. Thr nuts should be clean and dry and threads inspected.
 
Better locking wheel lug nut?

Okay, this thread settles it for me. I am not buying locking lug nuts for my truck. I want a way to prevent anyone from removing my fancy ICON wheel$ and Falken AT3W tire$ but not if it means dealing with this kind of problem.

I have Gorilla lug nuts which require a key between the lug nut and the socket wrench or lug nut wrench. That will have to do for now.

Can anyone recommend a better locking lug nut?
 
DesertCanyons said:
Okay, this thread settles it for me. I am not buying locking lug nuts for my truck. I want a way to prevent anyone from removing my fancy ICON wheel$ and Falken AT3W tire$ but not if it means dealing with this kind of problem.

I have Gorilla lug nuts which require a key between the lug nut and the socket wrench or lug nut wrench. That will have to do for now.

Can anyone recommend a better locking lug nut?
Click to expand...

this shoudln't be a problem if:
you torque your wheels properly (not with a gun, by hand!)
you rotate your tires regularly.
you use anti-seize on the lock.
 
I love anti-seize but I wouldn't use it on lug nuts.

You will not get proper torque and could end up stretching the studs. Anti-seize is like grease, you are lessening the friction between surfaces when you use it. If the manufacturer say to fasten them dry that is what you should do. OR do some research, I have seen posts where some recommend lessening the torque by 25%, I can't vouch for any of that, just saying.
 
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