Suggestions for part replacement

[SinisterGrin]

I am having my motor pulled to replace some oil leaks, and exhaust leak issues. My question is what other maintenance should I perform while the motor is removed from my 4Runner? I am looking at replacing motor mounts, adding headers, new cat-back exhaust... Is there anything I should specifically look at replacing while it would be convenient? Much appeciated

 

[SinisterGrin]

I have a good local mechanic who is hurting for work... he is willing to cut me a great deal on his shop rate to help me get these issues fixed. I just want to make sure that I am very thorough and have the major problems fixed or inspected while the 4Runner is torn apart. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated... Thank You

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Timing Belt/Water Pump if it's the 5VZ-FE. Make sure thermostat jiggle valve is at 6 o'clock, not 12.

Also, do Valve Cover Gaskets, plugs, wires, pcv. And have the TB, IAC and Intake Manifold thoroughly cleaned before reinstall.

third chunk on the list, Rad, hoses and Big 3 wire upgrade.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I would think that those issues could be addressed with the motor still in the body, though after it is pulled things are much easier to get to.

Oil pan gasket, rear main seal (OEM here) and oil cooler o-rings and hoses.

 

[JayRolla]

Timing Belt/Water Pump if it's the 5VZ-FE. Make sure thermostat jiggle valve is at 6 o'clock, not 12.

Also, do Valve Cover Gaskets, plugs, wires, pcv. And have the TB, IAC and Intake Manifold thoroughly cleaned before reinstall.

third chunk on the list, Rad, hoses and Big 3 wire upgrade.

Good advice.

All though keeping jiggle valve at 12 o'clock does give me warmer heater in winter.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Oil pan gasket, rear main seal (OEM here) and oil cooler o-rings and hoses.

I was guessing/speculating/assuming that the reason the motor is being pulled in the first place is for one or all of these issues.

 

[TheDurk]

I'd add starter contacts, if they have not been done (and positive cable if looking iffy). They will both go eventually, and it's so much easier with engine out. I did my contacts as PM when I did my clutch job three years ago, and the contact had only about 20% thickness left.

 

[SinisterGrin]

Thank you for the advice... I am definitely replacing the water pump, timing belt, rear main seal and oil pan gasket. I have already replaced the radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses, starter, plugs and plug wires. Looking at replacing the oil cooler hoses, the EGR, and will be looking at the positive cable for replacement. Thank you for all of your help.

 

[LittleCaesar]

No EGR on the 5vz; if you have the 4 cylinder, then yes, you have one.

I'd try and keep as many gaskets OEM as possible, including the Toyota FIPG for the oil pan gasket. The rear main seal OEM also. For the valve covers Fel Pro can be used.

 

[LittleCaesar]

No EGR on the 5vz; if you have the 4 cylinder, then yes, you have one.

I'd try and keep as many gaskets OEM as possible, including the Toyota FIPG for the oil pan gasket. The rear main seal OEM also. For the valve covers Fel Pro can be used.

Take a pic or two when the engine is out....