suggestions on my '99 black 4r

[bak3rme]

i've read alot of the black paint wax/polish threads here and i was goign to do mine this weekend.

my car is 11 years old and it has ALOT ALOT ALOT of random swirls, scratches and pinstripes. my hood looks like someone blasted it with sand and there are rock chips everywhere in the front.

i have proper wax/ washing soap/ towels / polish needed
i also have an orbital buffer and some rubbing compound

would this be a good step to do?
i dont know if i should clay or use rubbing compound first
i also dont know if i should use rubbing compound or polish first
and when i should use clay bar

1: wash car throughly with soap and water
2: clay hood and tail gate
3: rubbing compound
4: polish
5: wax

would that be a good step?

i donno really when to wax, polish, rubbing compound it up

 

[SeattleMike]

i've read alot of the black paint wax/polish threads here and i was goign to do mine this weekend.

my car is 11 years old and it has ALOT ALOT ALOT of random swirls, scratches and pinstripes. my hood looks like someone blasted it with sand and there are rock chips everywhere in the front.

i have proper wax/ washing soap/ towels / polish needed
i also have an orbital buffer and some rubbing compound

would this be a good step to do?
i dont know if i should clay or use rubbing compound first
i also dont know if i should use rubbing compound or polish first
and when i should use clay bar

1: wash car throughly with soap and water
2: clay hood and tail gate
3: rubbing compound
4: polish
5: wax

would that be a good step?

i donno really when to wax, polish, rubbing compound it up

Unless you are trying to take all the wax off a finish, make sure you are washing with a soap specifically meant for auto finishes. I only use dish soap when I am prepping for a full wax.

A clay bar is more abrasive than a rubbing compound, usually used to removed debris from paint. A rubbing compound is more abrasive than a polishing compound, usually used to take out scratches and nicks. A polishing compound is finer than the other two, and should be the final step in any scratch/swirl removal. Waxing will be your last step, but I would recommend a rewash between the last polishing step and the wax, just to make sure you remove any debris left over from the polishing.

Chips are another matter, as the paint has been removed completely and the only way to protect the rest of the finish from flaking up around it is with touch-up paint or professional attention.

I hope this helps.

 

[Uneek]

Depending on the rubbing compound or polish, generally rubbing compound is a more aggressive abrasive. I think of compounds in a paste form and polishes in liquid (but I could be wrong), since both have different levels of aggressiveness and some companies only make them one form or the other.

Compounds and polishes are used from most aggressive (as necessarily needed to correct the paint) to the least aggressive. After each one, you would step down to the lower aggressiveness. Also, the buffing pads you use play an equal important role as they have an aggressiveness rating too, known as "cut". Depending on the severity of the damage, wet sanding can be done too prior to componding and polishing. But I would leave that up to a pro, otherwise if too much is taken off, a respray will be the only fix.

Unless you're experienced, I would work backwards using the least aggressive compound and/or polish along with a pad with the least amount of cut to correct the finish. If it doesn't work then step it up one level and to the next, and so on. Once the paint is corrected, work back down with each compound and polish to restore the gloss.

In the general sense:
Say you want to buff out a scuff (like a bumper rubbing yours leaving some of their paint behind) or something on the clear coat, that's when rubbing compounds are used.

Polishes also have different levels of abrasives, but the ones with little to no abrasives are mainly used to give the paint some "pop", depth and maintaining the "wet" look.

Waxes (and sealants) are the top coats. The application of wax (or sealant) is what gives the finish protection from the elements.

Use a claybar when you run your hand over the finish and you can feel bumps and the finish is not super smooth. A claybar is meant to lift contaminants out of the finish, rail dust, environmental fallout, tree sap, etc.

Chips will required touch up or a respray, because it's damaged passed the clearcoat. Usually you see it because the base coat (paint color) has already been removed and it's now at the primer or bare metal level. No amount compounding, polishing or claying will restore loss clear coat.

When people are compounding and/or polishing, they are attempting to remove a very small amout of the clear coat. Swirls in the clear are like microscopic valleys, and they are trying to level and round off the sharp edges to minimize the refraction of light which is what makes swirls stand out.

Good luck. Looking forward to your shiney black 4Runner!

 

[bak3rme]

thanks unneek and seattle. i have the turtle wax rubbing compound, the one in the red little circle tub thing.

let say i want my car as glossy as possible and remove most of the small scratches. what should steps should i take?

should i was the car with dish soap to remove my previous wax?
or should u use regular car soap

then should i clay?
then rubbing compound?
then polish?

when u say abrasive..does that mean higher cut? (like more abrasive would be rougher sandpaper , and less abrasive would be finer sandpaper?

so that means start with the the 300 sandpaper and work my way to the 1000 sandpaper?

also, when u say wash the car after you polish and before you wax..does that mean wash it with water and the soap?

thanks guys, ill post pics when its nice and sunny of before and after pics


ALSO, would this be a good idea?
wash the hood (looked like it was blasted with rocks and sand) really good, then use a touch up brush to touch up the small chips. The paint will be uneven then, so i then use a rubbing compound to smooth out the finish? (kinda like applying putting to a wall and sanding it down to have it flushed with the surface)?

 

[Uneek]

I don't use dish soap/detergents on my car's finish. IIRC, Dawn was the brand of dish soap that most people use to "strip" off the wax. I use only car soap/shampoo on the finish, followed by a claybar to remove the contaminants. My thinking is if the claybar picks up the contaminants off the paint, any protection, wax or sealant should also be removed.

Some polishes, also contain fillers to hide light scratches like swirls. Some people don't like polishes with fillers because it could cloud the finish, preventing it from maximum shine.

For your finish I would wash, clay, touch up, compound the areas that need it, wash, polish, wax or seal.

Yes, abrasives and their ability to remove or cut. The more aggressive the abrasive is the more of the finish it can remove. The product shold give you an indication of its aggressiveness. Though I don't think all brands use the same rating system. So what's mild or light abrasive/cutting ability with one brand could be stronger or weaker than the next. There is also another type of abrasive known as "diminishing abrasives." Diminishing abrasives breakdown after it's been worked for a while, which is great for non-professional detailers because it can minimize the amount of possible damage that can be done by novices.

When you polish or compound, you'll need work to a less aggressive abrasive and then down to a pure polish to restore the shine. Just like in wood working as you would step up in the sandpaper's grit to remove the corse sanding to achieve smooth surface.

I always wash with soap to remove any possible dirt or contaminants. Also the soap provides lubricants to help lift dirt from marring the finish (swirls).

For touchup paint I use this product, Langka.

 

[bak3rme]

so i finally bought some polish and clay bar

i bought the turtle "ice paste" polish thats in a blue thingy
and for clay i bought the mothers clay bar that comes 2 with the kit
(how many uses are u suppose to get outa the clay bars? i emptied the whole spray bottle on one use, and 2 clay bars also..is it suppose to last longer? did i use too much?)

anyways, i think i sort of wasted 17 bucks for the clay bar. didnt really see any results that i thought it would give.

also tried the rubbing compound on a small part of my car, then i moved into polish it , and the rubbing compound scratches were still there, luckily it was only on a small part of the car..... didnt' like that result

so i just basically washed, clayed, wash, polish

car is shiny..but the polish didnt really take out the scratches i thought it would...my car is just shineier thats all...and it will be dirty again tomroo probally.

all in all, i could of gotten the same results i think if i went to a car wash...

i need to wax still, and vacum and do the wheels. that all happens tomroo.
ill get some pics when im finished.

 

[MikesToy]

If the scratches are deep, it will not come off no matter what you do.

 

[Uneek]

One claybar should be able to do three average sized cars. The bar can probably do more than that, but you don't want to run the risk of the contaminants marring the finish is mainly why clarbays need replacing. I can get more than three full details with the detailing spray (32oz). The claybar doesn't really make your car "look" better, but the finish should feel a lot smoother after you're done claying it.

The polish and your labor acheived its purpose, your car is shinier. Polish and the compound can't take out the scratches if they're too deep. If the scratch has damaged the paint to the extend of a chip, then compound, polish, wax, etc. won't correct it. Think of a deep scratch similar to a very long and narrow chip. Any chip you can feel, can't be corrected with compound, polish, etc.

Washing your car makes it clean, but doesn't do much for protection. Polishing and compounding corrects swirls and adds back a bit of pop and wet look to the paint. Waxing and sealing will help protect your hard work and retain the pop and wet look.

 

[bak3rme]

One claybar should be able to do three average sized cars. The bar can probably do more than that, but you don't want to run the risk of the contaminants marring the finish is mainly why clarbays need replacing. I can get more than three full details with the detailing spray (32oz). The claybar doesn't really make your car "look" better, but the finish should feel a lot smoother after you're done claying it.

The polish and your labor acheived its purpose, your car is shinier. Polish and the compound can't take out the scratches if they're too deep. If the scratch has damaged the paint to the extend of a chip, then compound, polish, wax, etc. won't correct it. Think of a deep scratch similar to a very long and narrow chip. Any chip you can feel, can't be corrected with compound, polish, etc.

Washing your car makes it clean, but doesn't do much for protection. Polishing and compounding corrects swirls and adds back a bit of pop and wet look to the paint. Waxing and sealing will help protect your hard work and retain the pop and wet look.

thanks though for the help, lol sooo i guess i used too much clay and spray...i ended up using one..tossing it out b/c it was too black...opened the other and used it halfway...and the spray bottle was empty before i could even fininish the rear cargo door lol. o well i guess those scratches will be there unless i get a new spray

they aren't very deep scratches..however i'lll take out my really good camera and snap couple shots when the sun hits the car at the right angle and all my scratches show up..then u can decide what i need to do

 

[audiqtr]

If the scratches are deep, it will not come off no matter what you do.

Practical Rule of Thumb: If you fingernail catches on the scratch, it is more likely it's thru the clear, and can't be removed.

 

[audiqtr]

I agree 100% with everything Uneek mentioned.

As far as results, Without power tools, Compounding/Polishing/Paint Correction results will be minimum, sometimes barely noticeble..

 

[TheeMikeB]

Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides

Great site for auto detailing stuff and expert advise. I followed these guides when I waxed my boat up last year and it came out great. ( I used the Porter cable 7424) but the guides here have great information. (no I don't work for them)