Suspension Not Suspending.

[fatherdoug]

Are bump stops something that come with new shocks like when you buy new rear OEM Tokico as you mentioned? Also, are the front coilovers also Tokico OEM? I'd like to refresh front and back with OEM.

Late reply, but the bump stops for the rear springs did not come as part of the spring package. They are, however, for sale separately. I did not replace the stops, because they were still in good shape. And yes, the front coilovers, OEM, are also Tokico.

 

[nc-grayson]

how are your steering rack bushings?

 

[fatherdoug]

^^^ I haven't looked at them yet, but I will. Thank you. That was something I didn't consider.

 

[fatherdoug]

I replaced the end links and the bushings on the front sway bar this afternoon. The passenger side bushing was a nightmare. There was no room because of the exhaust pipe. I got the forward nut off finally, but I couldn't get at the rear bolt. I ended up cutting through the welded nut on the bracket with a grinder, and then replaced the bracket with a new one. Thankfully they are still available.

Once again, there was an improvement in handling. At this point almost everything in the suspension has been replaced with new. The ball joints, steering rack bushings, control arm pivot points, etc. will be replaced later at some point in time.

The handling/control has improved substantially with everything done.

 

[sadkins12]

The suspension system is slowly being completely replaced. To date I have replaced the rear coil springs, rear sway bar bushings and end links, rear shocks, front quick struts(strut and spring), and have ordered bushings and end links for the front sway bar.

All the things listed above have gradually improved the ride/handling of the vehicle. I think the front sway bar bushings will make a big difference since they look trashed.

The front sway bar links should help you out. I recently changed mine as one of the connecting bolts stripped out after installing a lift. Biggest peice of advice is to just make sure you get the links tightened down nicely. I left one bolt to where it felt tight but wasnt really fully tightened down and the truck was real squirrely on the pavement. Also, I kept hearing a clicking sound under my truck and started fearing huge repairs, but after tightening it down better everything felt better and the click stopped! Best of luck to you!

Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk

 

[fatherdoug]

Good tip. Thank you!

 

[thegipper]

Also check the rear pan hard bar (track bar) bushings. See if there is play in them. Loose or worn track bar will make the back end shimmy all of the road.

 

[fatherdoug]

Also check the rear pan hard bar (track bar) bushings. See if there is play in them. Loose or worn track bar will make the back end shimmy all of the road.

Added to the list. Thank you. :thumb:

 

[fatherdoug]

Also check the rear pan hard bar (track bar) bushings. See if there is play in them. Loose or worn track bar will make the back end shimmy all of the road.

I can't seem to find just the bushings for the panhard bar, track bar, or whatever else it is called. There are lots of replacement bars, but no bushings that I can find for 3rd Gen 4runners.

 

[thegipper]

I believe there is only one company that sells replacement bushings and I can't think of who it is. What I did was just go to a junkyard and grab one that was in much better shape then mine.

Did you check to see if yours are even bad?

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[fatherdoug]

I did inspect them when I replaced the rear springs, and they weren't weather checked. There was also no side-to-side slop on the bar after I reinstalled it.

I was looking at replacing items as a preventive measure while I can. The older I get, the less I like to crawl around underneath vehicles.

 

[shahsmerdis]

Dont believe they are serviceable so said toyota.

 

[thegipper]

Did you check the bar by just pulling on it or using a pry bar to see how much slop is in the bushings? Mine were so bad that they could be moved with your hands. As long as there isn't any slop, they should be fine.

 

[fatherdoug]

No, no slop using a LARGE screwdriver.

 

[thegipper]

Good, than you can rule that out as a problem.

 

[fatherdoug]

I ordered a new OEM Panhard bar and replaced it today. This job should have taken 15 minutes. The old bar would have dropped right out while sitting on the ground. The passenger side bolt came right out, but the driver's bolt was butted up against one of the coils on the spring and wouldn't come out. I had to jack up the frame on the driver's side far enough to decompress the spring so I could get the bolt out.

Had it not been for the coil spring getting in the way, I could have done this job with everything on the ground.

 

[AntleredRuin]

I replaced the end links and the bushings on the front sway bar this afternoon. The passenger side bushing was a nightmare. There was no room because of the exhaust pipe. I got the forward nut off finally, but I couldn't get at the rear bolt. I ended up cutting through the welded nut on the bracket with a grinder, and then replaced the bracket with a new one. Thankfully they are still available.

Once again, there was an improvement in handling. At this point almost everything in the suspension has been replaced with new. The ball joints, steering rack bushings, control arm pivot points, etc. will be replaced later at some point in time.

The handling/control has improved substantially with everything done.

I've heard a few people say that LBJs don't make a noticeable difference in ride quality, but I disagree. If your LBJs are original, I'd say replace them pretty soon. For safety reasons, first off, and then for ride quality.
After I did mine, no more (or hardly any) steering wheel shimmy at high speeds, when anything over 65 was a bit scary. It also doesn't jump around near as much at potholes, etc.
My wife was the one who really noticed. I hadn't really told her what the ball joints were, just that when they broke, the, "wheel fell off".
So I doubt it's a placebo affect on my part. My old ball joints did still have some life in them as well; I replaced them more for insurance than anything else.
I did not get an alignment after the LBJs were replaced, just for reference.

 

[shahsmerdis]

I ordered a new OEM Panhard bar and replaced it today. This job should have taken 15 minutes. The old bar would have dropped right out while sitting on the ground. The passenger side bolt came right out, but the driver's bolt was butted up against one of the coils on the spring and wouldn't come out. I had to jack up the frame on the driver's side far enough to decompress the spring so I could get the bolt out.

Had it not been for the coil spring getting in the way, I could have done this job with everything on the ground.

how did this affect the suspension??

 

[Scramble]

^^^ I haven't looked at them yet, but I will. Thank you. That was something I didn't consider.

Energy Steering rack bushings are the greatest $21 I've ever spent in my life.

 

[fatherdoug]

I've heard a few people say that LBJs don't make a noticeable difference in ride quality, but I disagree. If your LBJs are original, I'd say replace them pretty soon. For safety reasons, first off, and then for ride quality.
After I did mine, no more (or hardly any) steering wheel shimmy at high speeds, when anything over 65 was a bit scary. It also doesn't jump around near as much at potholes, etc.
My wife was the one who really noticed. I hadn't really told her what the ball joints were, just that when they broke, the, "wheel fell off".
So I doubt it's a placebo affect on my part. My old ball joints did still have some life in them as well; I replaced them more for insurance than anything else.
I did not get an alignment after the LBJs were replaced, just for reference.

Agreed. I'm working toward getting them replaced.

how did this affect the suspension??

Replacing the panhard bar didn't seem to make much difference, but I think the old one was still in pretty good shape.

Energy Steering rack bushings are the greatest $21 I've ever spent in my life.

Duly Noted.