Suspension order. Feedback?

Rocket61

New member
I think I finally settled on a new suspension set up. Right now the handling is pretty loose with 135k on the stock parts. Hoping this upgrade will improve handling and wheeling. Can you guys give me some feedback? Do I have everything I need here?
 

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I think I finally settled on a new suspension set up. Right now the handling is pretty loose with 135k on the stock parts. Hoping this upgrade will improve handling and wheeling. Can you guys give me some feedback? Do I have everything I need here?

Upper/lower ball joints? Inner/outer tie rods? Jk...kind of. I'd do it if you're replacing all that other stuff. Otherwise I'd wager you'll be back in there sooner than later with the added lift and wheel spacers. Plus you already have to do an alignment and remove at least the outer tie rods.

On a more serious note - before you dive into the install you may want to have a couple alignment cam bolts/tabs in hand unless you're 100% sure your current ones aren't frozen by rust. That will sideline your project quick.

Other than that it looks good - way to do it right and start fresh with new bushings etc.
 
Upper/lower ball joints? Inner/outer tie rods? Jk...kind of. I'd do it if you're replacing all that other stuff. Otherwise I'd wager you'll be back in there sooner than later with the added lift and wheel spacers. Plus you already have to do an alignment and remove at least the outer tie rods.

On a more serious note - before you dive into the install you may want to have a couple alignment cam bolts/tabs in hand unless you're 100% sure your current ones aren't frozen by rust. That will sideline your project quick.

Other than that it looks good - way to do it right and start fresh with new bushings etc.

Thanks for the feedback. Re ball joints, tie rods, cam bolts and tabs - where should I order those from? How much time will that add to the project?
 
Thanks for the feedback. Re ball joints, tie rods, cam bolts and tabs - where should I order those from? How much time will that add to the project?

When I did the alignment tabs/bolts I had to order through the dealer as no one else offered them aftermarket last spring. They also may not stock them so you might have a couple day lead time. If your cams are not frozen you'll be fine, but it may be worth it to loosen them up ahead of time and make sure that won't be an issue. If you can't loosen them and move them around freely some heat or an air hammer could work. But be prepared to break out the sawzall.

You'll have the upper and lower arms off to do the bushings anyways. So you can either use a press if you have one, or rent a press (the giant C clamp style ones) to do the ball joints. Or run it to a shop and have them just press in and out real quick. Shouldn't add much time at all. I did my front lower ball joints in about 1.5 hours with the arms still on the truck.

Outer tie rods will already be half off so you can test for play on the inner tie rod socket. Replacing those might take an hour a side tops. So I'd wager it may add upwards of 4 hours to the job. those parts don't cost much and are mostly labor intensive.

You can get ball joints w/ zerk fittings. I went with MOOG for most of the parts, inner/outer tie rods and ball joints. For all the bolts/nuts on the suspension I used Toyota parts. the bushes were all poly. if you go poly be sure to use the proper synthetic grease and you'll be squeek free.

I have a few pics of the bushing replacement process in my build. check it out and if you have more questions let me know. I have more pics.
 
When I did the alignment tabs/bolts I had to order through the dealer as no one else offered them aftermarket last spring. They also may not stock them so you might have a couple day lead time. If your cams are not frozen you'll be fine, but it may be worth it to loosen them up ahead of time and make sure that won't be an issue. If you can't loosen them and move them around freely some heat or an air hammer could work. But be prepared to break out the sawzall.

You'll have the upper and lower arms off to do the bushings anyways. So you can either use a press if you have one, or rent a press (the giant C clamp style ones) to do the ball joints. Or run it to a shop and have them just press in and out real quick. Shouldn't add much time at all. I did my front lower ball joints in about 1.5 hours with the arms still on the truck.

Outer tie rods will already be half off so you can test for play on the inner tie rod socket. Replacing those might take an hour a side tops. So I'd wager it may add upwards of 4 hours to the job. those parts don't cost much and are mostly labor intensive.

You can get ball joints w/ zerk fittings. I went with MOOG for most of the parts, inner/outer tie rods and ball joints. For all the bolts/nuts on the suspension I used Toyota parts. the bushes were all poly. if you go poly be sure to use the proper synthetic grease and you'll be squeek free.

I have a few pics of the bushing replacement process in my build. check it out and if you have more questions let me know. I have more pics.

I'll look into that - thank you. I've heard some guys complain about a lean after lifting. Will I run into that with this setup?
 
I'll look into that - thank you. I've heard some guys complain about a lean after lifting. Will I run into that with this setup?

I see you have a top plate spacer in your parts list - I don't have much experience with the spring/shock combo you'll be running but the common fix is to add a spacer to the rear DS coil.

I did that and it got me close enough to fix the infamous 'Driverside lean'.

That's the only lean I encountered. If you mean a front to rear or rear to front lean hopefully someone else can offer their $.02.
 
Anyone have experience with this coilover setup? I've heard mixed reviews... Should I switch to something else?
 
Anyone have experience with this coilover setup? I've heard mixed reviews... Should I switch to something else?

I have the superflex rears and the same fronts and could not be happier for the money

ETA with 5100s in the rear and no sway bar the ride can be a little jarring at times which will only be worse with the 5125s - unless you plan on running extended sway bar links for the rear (or no sway like me) the sway will limit your travel and the longer softer shocks wont have much of an effect. Otherwise, yes you will get more flex from them than the 5100, but the ride will be harsher.
 
I see you have a top plate spacer in your parts list - I don't have much experience with the spring/shock combo you'll be running but the common fix is to add a spacer to the rear DS coil.

I did that and it got me close enough to fix the infamous 'Driverside lean'.

That's the only lean I encountered. If you mean a front to rear or rear to front lean hopefully someone else can offer their $.02.

How does this package look?

Suspension Parts Inner Outer Tie Rods Ends Lower Ball Joints Stabilizer Bar Link | eBay
 
I have the superflex rears and the same fronts and could not be happier for the money

ETA with 5100s in the rear and no sway bar the ride can be a little jarring at times which will only be worse with the 5125s - unless you plan on running extended sway bar links for the rear (or no sway like me) the sway will limit your travel and the longer softer shocks wont have much of an effect. Otherwise, yes you will get more flex from them than the 5100, but the ride will be harsher.

Any problems with leaning or was she level after bolting everything on?
 
Any problems with leaning or was she level after bolting everything on?

I put a 1.5" aluminum spacer in the rear, driver side only and I think I now have a little passenger side lean, but these springs will sag. Supposedly the sage gets pretty bar with superflexes but I have only had mine for a few thousand miles
 
I put a 1.5" aluminum spacer in the rear, driver side only and I think I now have a little passenger side lean, but these springs will sag. Supposedly the sage gets pretty bar with superflexes but I have only had mine for a few thousand miles

What's the best spring to throw back there that won't sag?
 
Considering switching the super flex with Radflo. What do you think? Also swapped out the 5125 with v2 Icons.

I think both of those are good moves. I would imagine the radflos are stiffer and will thus sag less. I think it's icon that has a "sag free" guarantee
 
I think both of those are good moves. I would imagine the radflos are stiffer and will thus sag less. I think it's icon that has a "sag free" guarantee

Radflos will support a bit more weight as they're a 220# coil vs what i think is #180 stock? In turn - less sag too.
 

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