swaybar bushing bracket removal....WAR!!!!!

T4Rex.

New member
i have some how broke the bolt on the drivers side that holds the sway bar bushings in....i have tried just removing the sway bar all together however i cant manage to get anything to work in getting off the other bolts on the passenger side!!! i cant get figure this one out and i know its something simple....i have the bushings and i really just want to leave my sway bar on however when the bolt broke off its ****ed up the bracket and i can NOT get it to line up with the bolt hole....GETTING my ass kicked by these damn brackets is pretty pathetic!!!.... bought to get pissed off and just take my trust saw saw to the brackets and say the hell with it!!~!:uzi::uzi::uzi:
 
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they are tough first time, the front bolt is actually a stud and they were so rusted on mine that the thing snapped in half before the nut would free up. I then punched the stud head out and replaced it with a regular bolt and nut.
Have you tried heat on the bolts yet? That usually works well.
 
Is this the front or rear. If it is the rear i would just leave it off. If it is the front the stud and nut are part of the bracket and it is under $15. Brake them if you have to and replace the bracket. I have had to do this on two different 4runners.

Ben
 
Is this the front or rear. If it is the rear i would just leave it off. If it is the front the stud and nut are part of the bracket and it is under $15. Break them if you have to and replace the bracket. I have had to do this on two different 4runners.

Ben, why do you recommend to leave off the rear sway bar?
 
Ben, why do you recommend to leave off the rear sway bar?
it allows for more axel drop without the sway bar....


Yeah ended up getting them off....but i drive alot on the highway....just found some Polyperformance Sway bar bushing w/ the brackets so i am gonna go ahead and throw them on in the morning
 
I see you've gotten them off - but just a note - I find diesel fuel works excellent for lubricating. Better than PB/SlowCreep/etc.
 
LOOL
I love this subject title, been working on steering rack bushings all morning! I love my 4Runner but there are times when I simply want to blow it up!!:)
 
LOOL
I love this subject title, been working on steering rack bushings all morning! I love my 4Runner but there are times when I simply want to blow it up!!:)

You aren't kidding! I wanted to just park my 4Runner in the street and leave the keys in it after fighting the alignment for over 3 hours yesterday! I think I'm going to just take it to Firestone for the lifetime alignment and let them mess with it.

I have yet to tackle the front sway bar bushings. I think I may wait till I am back working in the body shop and have access to more metal cutting tools. Then I can just cut the bolts off and replace with new bolts. With 347k miles they are rusted up pretty good.
 
You aren't kidding! I wanted to just park my 4Runner in the street and leave the keys in it after fighting the alignment for over 3 hours yesterday! I think I'm going to just take it to Firestone for the lifetime alignment and let them mess with it.

I have yet to tackle the front sway bar bushings. I think I may wait till I am back working in the body shop and have access to more metal cutting tools. Then I can just cut the bolts off and replace with new bolts. With 347k miles they are rusted up pretty good.

This probably does not work as each bracket has one stud and one welded nut. So if you cut a stud you ruin the bracket, and if you cut a bolt it is still inside the nut welded to the bracket. At 347k, just get a new pair of brackets for about $20. Then cut away...Remember left and right are different--this is not obvious and can drive you nuts. Look for the L and R on the brackets.
 
This probably does not work as each bracket has one stud and one welded nut. So if you cut a stud you ruin the bracket, and if you cut a bolt it is still inside the nut welded to the bracket. At 347k, just get a new pair of brackets for about $20. Then cut away...Remember left and right are different--this is not obvious and can drive you nuts. Look for the L and R on the brackets.

I see what you re saying, but the stud can eaiky be cut off and a bolt used in its place. The "nut" is spot welded in 3 or 4 places and would easily be removed with a grinder and air chisel. I don't like to spend money on parts when I can just improvise a workable solution. When I get around to doin it I will post a write-up.
 
I see what you re saying, but the stud can eaiky be cut off and a bolt used in its place. The "nut" is spot welded in 3 or 4 places and would easily be removed with a grinder and air chisel. I don't like to spend money on parts when I can just improvise a workable solution. When I get around to doin it I will post a write-up.

Yeah, if you want to bad enough, you can. The other thing is getting a wrench on one point in those spots was a challenge. Having to secure bolt AND nut, instead of having either the stud or nut fixed to the bracket, will generate some cuss words, I guarantee you. Good luck! I admire your determination.
 

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