tapping valves on 5vzfe

knomadic

knomadic

New member
Hey guys,
I have a 98 4-runner with a 5vzfe that I just got back from having the engine machined and rebuilt after the crank shaft broke. When we got it back, it was making a clicking-type sound coming from the top of the block that gets louder as the engine warms up. We have no confidence in our mechanic anymore because of some other issues we've had. Could clicking (kind of sounds like it's a diesel engine instead of a V6) be improper shimming of the valves? If it is improper shim sizes, how big of a deal is it if we drive it like this? Other than the noise, it seems to be running okay. Haven't had a pressure test or emissions test done but will call around on Monday. Super frustrated right now, any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Well, he's right about the sensors and the computer that take care of ignition timing but the belt (valve timing) needs to be on right as well. Since so much was done I don't think I'm going to sit here and guess what that might be. Take it some where else for a second opinion.
 
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Thanks, kball. I edited my post because I found you're right, a timing gun isn't required. I had read that it was somewhere. Just trying to figure this out. I'm not a mechanic and where I live, mechanics are hard to find. I took it to a friend today who rebuilds 2 cycle engines and he said it sounds like valves to him. I guess we'll call around and see if someone will look at it tomorrow. Nearest dealership is an hour away and I'm concerned about driving it that far with the noise. Is it possible to upload videos on this forum?
 
People post vids all the time. They usually use youtube. I never have so can't help you there.
 
Seems like I've watched a lot of vids that sound like that on this forum over the years. Couldn't tell you what it turned out to be, or if it turned out to be anything.
 
knomadic said:
Hey guys,
I have a 98 4-runner with a 5vzfe that I just got back from having the engine machined and rebuilt after the crank shaft broke. When we got it back, it was making a clicking-type sound coming from the top of the block that gets louder as the engine warms up. We have no confidence in our mechanic anymore because of some other issues we've had. Could clicking (kind of sounds like it's a diesel engine instead of a V6) be improper shimming of the valves? If it is improper shim sizes, how big of a deal is it if we drive it like this? Other than the noise, it seems to be running okay. Haven't had a pressure test or emissions test done but will call around on Monday. Super frustrated right now, any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
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join the club... I just struggled through an engine swap (junk yard motor that appeared to be 50 years old on the outside but looks like new on the inside) runs perfect but AFTER it warms up clicks like a big dog. snake oiled it to death but no change...can't wait to hear what you find!
 
knomadic said:
Thanks, kball. I edited my post because I found you're right, a timing gun isn't required. I had read that it was somewhere. Just trying to figure this out. I'm not a mechanic and where I live, mechanics are hard to find. I took it to a friend today who rebuilds 2 cycle engines and he said it sounds like valves to him. I guess we'll call around and see if someone will look at it tomorrow. Nearest dealership is an hour away and I'm concerned about driving it that far with the noise. Is it possible to upload videos on this forum?
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lol...don't talk valves with a 2stroke guy! ;):
 
If you are capable of removing valve covers then it's not much more to check valve clearance with a feeler gauge set.


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BrianSD_42 said:
It's it under warranty? Any decent rebuild ship would include a warranty.
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no, unfortunately we made a bad decision and gave a friend of ours a sympathy job. he kind of did warranty his work, as in he offered to fix the valves if the shims are off, but we don't want him to touch our car anymore.
 
baja1 said:
join the club... I just struggled through an engine swap (junk yard motor that appeared to be 50 years old on the outside but looks like new on the inside) runs perfect but AFTER it warms up clicks like a big dog. snake oiled it to death but no change...can't wait to hear what you find!
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damn, bummer dude. i'll keep ya updated.
 
That'd be your valves. They are out of adjustment.

Any time head work is done or machined, etc. the valve clearances must be checked. If it wasn't put together EXACTLY like it was before they will be out of spec. We are talking about hundredths of an inch differences, so a slight change messes up the valves.
 
I have a 99, six cylinder. Noisy valves, going to redo them myself when i change timing belt, plugs, gaskets... i guess from reading threads i can get different size shims from the dealer? It has 260k not sure if they've ever been adjusted. Anyone have advice on what range of sizes i should get so i don't have to run back out? My only car...
 
When doing a head gasket job take the heads to a good machine shop I have done 3 5vz-fe engines with in the past year. Re grind the valves and seats and resurfacing the heads cost me about 350.00 for both heads when I gave them the seals from the head gasket set. I one case when I had rebuilt heads I checked the gap and they were no where close to spec. In that case the machine shop only charged me 100 to change the disks to get them back into spec. If you spend all that money on parts spend the other 350 to do the job right unless you want to tear it down again and at the least buy intake, head gaskets and bolts along with another few days of work. If you are in the San Diego area I use Paradise Motor sports good work and fast turn arounds.
:hatsoff:
 
Thanks, i want to try to squeeze another 100k out of these heads before i switch them if i can, probably get some from the upullit and head to the machine shop with those. Really trying to get an idea of the shim thickness range for now
 
Forefunner said:
Thanks, i want to try to squeeze another 100k out of these heads before i switch them if i can, probably get some from the upullit and head to the machine shop with those. Really trying to get an idea of the shim thickness range for now
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That's what I did on my last major overhaul of my now deceased engine. Most stock shims will be in the 2.80mm - 2.95mm range from the factory, you might see a 3.00mm if you dig around enough. I highly recommend measuring and comparing using millimeters and not inches, since that's how Toyota stamps them. Get a digital caliper as well, it's necessary. If you plan on pulling shims without pulling the camshafts (doesn't apply at the u-pull-it yard, just take the camshafts off) as well as the Lexus/Toyota valve tools (looks like a pair of pliers with a lockpick): https://www.ebay.com/p/Toyota-Lexus...ool-Sch88250-88250-Schley-Products/4017008362. Use the short end of the pick tool.

Before you put it in, put a little oil on the camshaft lobes and shim and turn them over and double check the clearances with a feeler gauge. Once again, measuring in mm's is the most accurate and makes the math simple.
 
I have done the trying to figure out the right shims if you going to take the heads to a machine shop they will take care of that for you. If you decide to do your own shims it can get costlly just buying the shims and making sure you get the right ones. When I do the reinstall of the heads I will squirt some motor oil on the lifter making sure to get some on the edge so it flows down between the lifter and the head. I also put a little STP right out of the bottle on the cam lobe it is like honey so it will stay on the cam. When I go to start I will crank the engine over for about 30 sec with the spark plugs out and coil packs unpluged to push oil from the oil pump to the top end of the engine.
 
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