TC activating after lift

Deputy

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Searched but didn't get results that match my issue. I've had my lift installed for about 2 weeks and I've noticed my Traction Control keeps activating randomly. It will activate on the smallest turns and I can't figure it out. Has anyone else noticed this after lift? Could it be that we disabled the XREAS system? It's pretty annoying when it activates in the middle of a turn.


****UPDATE****
9/15/2017
As I was driving today, 4 lights came on. Service engine, Tractjon Control, VSC Trac, and VSC OFF. All of them came on at the same time. Truck is still driving fine and not having any issues other than TC still activating on some turns. Any advice? Already looked at all the wires and everything seems fine and secured.
 
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need to do a zero point calibration to the inclination sensor. usually when you take it for a alignment, they do reset the computer with there tool to update new settings.
but check the obvious like abs wires.
 
ZPC might fix some of the issue.

How much did you lift it +tire size?

You can only fight the Yaw Rate Sensor so much, lifting the COG (Center of Gravity) raises the YRS (Yaw Rate Sensor) and thus movements resulting in angle and interia get exaggerated. On my 35's I will have the VSC/TRAC kick in on sometime slow turns if the nose gets pointed into a turn too much (i.e. a sharp turn going a slight incline at low speed).

I'd start with a ZPC and see if that helps alleviate some of that.
 
ZPC might fix some of the issue.

How much did you lift it +tire size?

You can only fight the Yaw Rate Sensor so much, lifting the COG (Center of Gravity) raises the YRS (Yaw Rate Sensor) and thus movements resulting in angle and interia get exaggerated. On my 35's I will have the VSC/TRAC kick in on sometime slow turns if the nose gets pointed into a turn too much (i.e. a sharp turn going a slight incline at low speed).

I'd start with a ZPC and see if that helps alleviate some of that.

Icon stage 2 kit. Forgot to do measurements before and after so can't tell how much lift. Also 34x10.5 tires which are actually more like 33s.
 
I edited my first post. Now my service engine, TC, VSC TRAC AND VSC OFF lights have all popped up on my dash...need advise.
 
Did you do a zero point calibration?
Check that you didn't stretch or cut a wire to any ABS sensor. Or disconnected any connection to the ABS system.

Oh, and check your gas cap. Once the vehicle as any small problem it lights up all those lights
 
I've been extremely busy. I've called the shop that did the install and talked to them about the zero point calibration. I've lifted many trucks and never heard of this or had any issues like this. Also, the lights went off about 30 mins and haven't returned. But still having the TC activate on turns and driving me nuts.
 
ZERO POINT CALIBRATION

You've asked for the forum's advice and it's been given to you multiple times.
I did a 1" body lift years after my suspension lift and had the same problem. ZERO POINT CALIBRATION fixed the problem.
Look it up on YouTube. It's literally a 5 minute fix.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Another +1 here for zero point... that is where i would start.

its super easy to do, all you are doing is shorting two pins in a specific sequence.

I even made myself a tool to make it easier... ive been disabling it off-road.

Google around for a full set of instruction.

3hLYNKL.jpg
 
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I've been extremely busy. I've called the shop that did the install and talked to them about the zero point calibration. I've lifted many trucks and never heard of this or had any issues like this. Also, the lights went off about 30 mins and haven't returned. But still having the TC activate on turns and driving me nuts.

"Zero Point Calibration of the Yaw Rate Sensor" is the technical terminology. When you lift the vehicle you change the ZPC or the "Zero" of the vehicle's Yaw Rate Sensor (it's a sensor that detects the difference between the vehicle's momentum and the direction it's traveling and I believe to a degree it detects roll as well). When you lift the vehicle, disconnect the battery for an extended period of time and/or affect the memory of the ABS system (i.e. new ABS module, sensors, ect.) the system needs to relearn "Zero" so that it's relative measurement of Yaw Rate is accurate.

This is done via a ZPC of the Yaw Rate Sensor and provides the vehicle with a Zero relative to it's current configuration. This allows the vehicle to better track and predict the vehicle's momentum and direction when driving, an out of calibration Yaw Rate Sensor can lead to erroneous readings and thus more sensitive or incorrect VSC/TRAC activation.

As I said earlier though, I do suspect that the Yaw Rate Sensor also tracks Roll as a measurement (I could be wrong on that, it's been a bit since I delved into detail on those components). Which means that while performing a ZPC will help somewhat it may not alleviate your issues completely. The reason being that your center of gravity is higher and thus the Yaw Rate sensor itself is higher meaning that forces will be exaggerated on your lifted vehicle (i.e. your now taller vehicle with a different spring rate, and so on will roll more in a turn than a stock vehicle) and thus the VSC/TRAC system may think it's in danger of slipping when it's not an prematurely activate. There's nothing you can do about that specific side-effect, for the most part adjusting your driving style helps to mitigate that, or just disabling the entire ABS system does as well.

This isn't new to Toyota Trucks/SUVs, nor to newer Trucks/SUVs in general; so if the shop you talked to hasn't heard of it, it's probably because they haven't bothered to be knowledgeable on anything made in the last 20yrs.

Post Note-

You also didn't mention how aggressively you're driving the vehicle when VSC/TRAC is kicking in. I can get VSC/TRAC to be a bit annoying if I start throwing my 4th gen around with it's heavy 35's, I also could get it to happen with a sharp enough turn when I had 33's and maybe even stock tires. Also if you have 34x10.5 tires then they should be nominal 34" diameter give or take a 1/8" of an inch, unless you're using a metric size (your comment about them being closer to 33's seemed off since you gave a floatation size that should be fairly consistent, you only really get that "almost a 34 inch tire" measurement when you're converting metric to floatation).

The Stage 2 kit is a 2.0" diameter shock front and rear and if I recall they are running 600, maybe 650lbs springs on those front coils (I forget so anyone who runs Icon stuff please correct me if I am wrong), that combined with the heavy unsprung weight of 34's and mildly aggressive turns could be enough to contribute to VSC/TRAC kicking in a bit weirdly. There's also things like your wheel size/offset (i.e. if you're running too slim or too wider wheel and what the offset is), alignment specifications, and how the Icon kit affects your SAI (Steering Angle Inclination) which could all contribute to your issue.

Bottom line; lots of variables and "maybes, ifs, possibilities" to go through. Start with a base line first and make sure that the ABS/VSC/TRAC system is calibrated correctly to your current vehicle set-up by doing a ZPC then we can work from there.

Also you said the "Service Engine" warning lamp was on? Do you mean the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp, also known as a "Check Engine Light") was on? If so that's more than likely not related to your ABS/VSC/TRAC system.
 
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"Zero Point Calibration of the Yaw Rate Sensor" is the technical terminology. When you lift the vehicle you change the ZPC or the "Zero" of the vehicle's Yaw Rate Sensor (it's a sensor that detects the difference between the vehicle's momentum and the direction it's traveling and I believe to a degree it detects roll as well). When you lift the vehicle, disconnect the battery for an extended period of time and/or affect the memory of the ABS system (i.e. new ABS module, sensors, ect.) the system needs to relearn "Zero" so that it's relative measurement of Yaw Rate is accurate.

This is done via a ZPC of the Yaw Rate Sensor and provides the vehicle with a Zero relative to it's current configuration. This allows the vehicle to better track and predict the vehicle's momentum and direction when driving, an out of calibration Yaw Rate Sensor can lead to erroneous readings and thus more sensitive or incorrect VSC/TRAC activation.

As I said earlier though, I do suspect that the Yaw Rate Sensor also tracks Roll as a measurement (I could be wrong on that, it's been a bit since I delved into detail on those components). Which means that while performing a ZPC will help somewhat it may not alleviate your issues completely. The reason being that your center of gravity is higher and thus the Yaw Rate sensor itself is higher meaning that forces will be exaggerated on your lifted vehicle (i.e. your now taller vehicle with a different spring rate, and so on will roll more in a turn than a stock vehicle) and thus the VSC/TRAC system may think it's in danger of slipping when it's not an prematurely activate. There's nothing you can do about that specific side-effect, for the most part adjusting your driving style helps to mitigate that, or just disabling the entire ABS system does as well.

This isn't new to Toyota Trucks/SUVs, nor to newer Trucks/SUVs in general; so if the shop you talked to hasn't heard of it, it's probably because they haven't bothered to be knowledgeable on anything made in the last 20yrs.

Post Note-

You also didn't mention how aggressively you're driving the vehicle when VSC/TRAC is kicking in. I can get VSC/TRAC to be a bit annoying if I start throwing my 4th gen around with it's heavy 35's, I also could get it to happen with a sharp enough turn when I had 33's and maybe even stock tires. Also if you have 34x10.5 tires then they should be nominal 34" diameter give or take a 1/8" of an inch, unless you're using a metric size (your comment about them being closer to 33's seemed off since you gave a floatation size that should be fairly consistent, you only really get that "almost a 34 inch tire" measurement when you're converting metric to floatation).

The Stage 2 kit is a 2.0" diameter shock front and rear and if I recall they are running 600, maybe 650lbs springs on those front coils (I forget so anyone who runs Icon stuff please correct me if I am wrong), that combined with the heavy unsprung weight of 34's and mildly aggressive turns could be enough to contribute to VSC/TRAC kicking in a bit weirdly. There's also things like your wheel size/offset (i.e. if you're running too slim or too wider wheel and what the offset is), alignment specifications, and how the Icon kit affects your SAI (Steering Angle Inclination) which could all contribute to your issue.

Bottom line; lots of variables and "maybes, ifs, possibilities" to go through. Start with a base line first and make sure that the ABS/VSC/TRAC system is calibrated correctly to your current vehicle set-up by doing a ZPC then we can work from there.

Also you said the "Service Engine" warning lamp was on? Do you mean the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp, also known as a "Check Engine Light") was on? If so that's more than likely not related to your ABS/VSC/TRAC system.

Thanks for the response. Sorry I'm just getting on to read this. The TC is activating at low speeds <10mph. I'm running the stage 2 kit, but have the 2.5 coilovers and have either 650 or 700 spring (bought kit used and don't recall at this very second). Also, I'm running the OEM TRD Pro wheelswith BFG 34x10.5 tires which measure out closer to 33". I'm not near as active with cars as I used to do. I'm looking into the ZPC. Been trying to examine all the wires because the lights are back on the dash. Thanks for the advise.

******Edit****** I just tried performing the ZPC several times and it did not work...No matter what I do,the lights return. I took several turns at different speeds with bumps and uneven surfaces and wasn't able to get the TC to activate.
 
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Another +1 here for zero point... that is where i would start.

its super easy to do, all you are doing is shorting two pins in a specific sequence.

I even made myself a tool to make it easier... ive been disabling it off-road.

Google around for a full set of instruction.

3hLYNKL.jpg

I like that tool you made! What did you use and how did you make it?
John
 
I like that tool you made! What did you use and how did you make it?
John

Thanks

It was quite easy... it's basically a momentary switch, some wire, and a OBD plug.

Parts:
OBD Plug
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X6TUD18/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Momentary Switch
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1445

You can google / Amazon "Momentary Switch" and find plenty of options... I just raided the parts bin because I have a ton of electrical parts and goodies already.

Solder the two pins on the OBD to the switch so you can short the circuit and you are done.
 
Did you get a resolution on this? Only my slip light is permanently on after a 3" lift. Dealer said $300 to fix.
 

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