TEP/TRDOP: Buy used or new?

FireOnTheMountain

New member
Hey folks,

I'm looking for some advice on an upcoming transaction. After about a 10 year hiatus from 4Runners, I'll be trading my '15 Yukon which is coming up on the 36K mile warranty expiration and has already had several issues.

I've already put down a deposit on a white '17 TRD-Off Road Premium with KDSS, but saw a used white '14 Trail Premium without KDSS listed yesterday. Check out the breakdown below...

'17 TRDOP w/ KDSS - $40,000 sale price, $48,000 trade allowance
*Also have the ability to roll Toytec lift, wheels/tires etc into the note through the dealership

'14 Trail Premium, no KDSS (~38,000 miles) - $35,000 sale price, $50,000 trade allowance
*Upgrades/mods would all be out of pocket

Are the KDSS, warranty and dealership upgrades worth the extra dough? Am I missing any other differences from the '14 - '17 models?


Either way, I'm very happy to get back into a 4Runner. Thanks for the input.
 
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At that price difference I would pesonally get new.

KDSS is very subjective. I love it for on road driving. For offroad, depending on how you use it, it will limit rear travel.

Now if you got the used one for closer to under 32k it would have me looking into that.

Also, from a financial stand point I would not finance upgrades or mods. It's something you instantly lose half the value, if not more. And you will be paying finance charges on it. So 2k worth of mods turns into $2500 after 5 years. And in 5 years that 2k worth of parts is worth a couple hundred if you're lucky.
 
That's definitely closing in on, in my opinion, the range of "for $5,000 extra, I get a car that has no previous owners and I will know the history of every single mile that the vehicle has been through". I would just fork over the extra $5,000 for that peace of mind. But I'm also pretty picky vehicle-wise. Someone could easily put a vehicle through the ringer in 38,000 miles. Plus factory warranty? Definitely go new.
 
Also, from a financial stand point I would not finance upgrades or mods. It's something you instantly lose half the value, if not more. And you will be paying finance charges on it. So 2k worth of mods turns into $2500 after 5 years. And in 5 years that 2k worth of parts is worth a couple hundred if you're lucky.

That's a good point, although the upgrades are happening immediately, one way or another. The dealership quoted $4,600 for Toytec Boss lift, UCAs, wheels of my choice and 285/70r17 tires of my choice.

A local shop that I've seen mentioned on here quoted about $5,400 for a similar setup.

I recently moved states and don't have the tools/setup to do the install myself right now.

With around 3.5% interest, paid down in 24 mos, the difference is pretty negligible.

Andddd I'm back to square one :shrug:
 
That's definitely closing in on, in my opinion, the range of "for $5,000 extra, I get a car that has no previous owners and I will know the history of every single mile that the vehicle has been through". I would just fork over the extra $5,000 for that peace of mind. But I'm also pretty picky vehicle-wise. Someone could easily put a vehicle through the ringer in 38,000 miles. Plus factory warranty? Definitely go new.

I am similarly picky and also noticed that the vehicle was a lease in the AutoCheck. In my mind, leases probably aren't cared for as diligently as purchases.
 
Seriously a three year old Yukon is still $48k to $50K trade? Is it a Denali? Seems like a lot.

Yeah, it's the 2015.5 Denali 4x4. I'm actually getting a premium on the trade in CO vs TX. My previous Tahoe has been retired as a ranch truck for a few years, but has 200K+ miles with no end in site. The new models are a different story and I would be shocked if this thing made it to 70K miles without some major work.
 
That's a good point, although the upgrades are happening immediately, one way or another. The dealership quoted $4,600 for Toytec Boss lift, UCAs, wheels of my choice and 285/70r17 tires of my choice.

A local shop that I've seen mentioned on here quoted about $5,400 for a similar setup.

I recently moved states and don't have the tools/setup to do the install myself right now.

With around 3.5% interest, paid down in 24 mos, the difference is pretty negligible.

Andddd I'm back to square one :shrug:
Put that way. Get the new one hands down.
 
Hey folks,

I'm looking for some advice on an upcoming transaction. After about a 10 year hiatus from 4Runners, I'll be trading my '15 Yukon which is coming up on the 36K mile warranty expiration and has already had several issues.

I've already put down a deposit on a white '17 TRD-Off Road Premium with KDSS, but saw a used white '14 Trail Premium without KDSS listed yesterday. Check out the breakdown below...

'17 TRDOP w/ KDSS - $40,000 sale price, $48,000 trade allowance
*Also have the ability to roll Toytec lift, wheels/tires etc into the note through the dealership

'14 Trail Premium, no KDSS (~38,000 miles) - $35,000 sale price, $50,000 trade allowance
*Upgrades/mods would all be out of pocket

Are the KDSS, warranty and dealership upgrades worth the extra dough? Am I missing any other differences from the '14 - '17 models?


Either way, I'm very happy to get back into a 4Runner. Thanks for the input.

I'd go used, then you won't have to skitter around in the shadows with your tail between your legs, hiding the TRD logos on your non-TRD truck.

:peep:

But honestly, you need to go spend some time driving both a KDSS and non-KDSS vehicle, which is a pretty significant difference between them. The warranty issue would also be significant, although Toyota's roll pretty well with time.


At that price difference I would pesonally get new.

KDSS is very subjective. I love it for on road driving. For offroad, depending on how you use it, it will limit rear travel.

True, true, and not-so-much true; as has been discussed-to-death around here, it makes articulation come easier, albeit with the same overall limits as a non-KDSS vehicle.
 
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Personally I would get the TRDORP. It will be worth more down the road because people will pay more anything with a TRD badge.

I wouldn't go to a dealer Use a good auto broker. You'll​ get be truck at or near invoice. Your trade will be handled as its own deal so there is no hiding getting screwed. You'll also not be locked into Toyota financial option. You can get the best deal. Also you keep all the rebates with an auto broker. None of the bs of the dealership wanting you to sign them over.

Then install the upgrades later. Never put aftermarket add on into a deal. You'll pay for them 2 or 3 times by the time you're done.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
 
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I'd go used, then you won't have to skitter around in the shadows with your tail between your legs, hiding the TRD logos on your non-TRD truck.

:peep:

Ha, but I'm sure I could find a friendly forum member who would take those logos off of my hands :yo:

Alternately, I could just get the Pro appearance package at the dealership, unless there's some insane markup.
 
Personally I would get the TRDORP. It will be worth more down the road because people will pay more anything with a TRD badge.

I wouldn't go to a dealer Use a good auto broker. You'll​ get be truck at or near invoice. Your trade will be handled as its own deal so there is no hiding getting screwed. You'll also not be locked into Toyota financial option. You can get the best deal. Also you keep all the rebates with an auto broker. None of the bs of the dealership wanting you to sign them over.

Then install the upgrades later. Never put aftermarket add on into a deal. You'll pay for them 2 or 3 times by the time you're done.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk


Can you help me understand this one? The upgrades will go on either at the dealership or at a shop within the first month. It's $4,600 at the dealership or $5,400 at the shop? Either option is going to depreciate at the same rate, but at least I'll keep the $5K in my pocket going the dealership route.
 
Can you help me understand this one? The upgrades will go on either at the dealership or at a shop within the first month. It's $4,600 at the dealership or $5,400 at the shop? Either option is going to depreciate at the same rate, but at least I'll keep the $5K in my pocket going the dealership route.

'14 has no warranty, and it has depreciated only $5k in 3 years? I would also feel much more comfortable if any warranty issues arise, with the aftermarket install being done by certified Toyota techs.

To me it's a no-brainer, get the new one.
 
Get the 2017 and be done with it. Fruck used :/ hehe Brand new is the way to go. You don't know how it was driven or taken care of ......
 
Having just gone through this decision process. I decided to pick up a new one. The rarity and difficulty involved to find a used on in my part of the country did not make up for the discount/cost differential of a used one.
 
I went new. They hold their value so well that the price difference isn't worth buying used unless its ten years old or so. I have KDSS and love it. YMMV.
 

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