The big 3 upgrade question

kolelt

New member
When you do this upgrade. And run the new wire from alternator to positive battery. Do you still keep the oem one hooked up also ?
 
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Are you doing anything like [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] Acrylic layout HERE? Then it looks like no you wouldn't.

But if all you're doing is "upgrading" what's there, then I think you should be able to leave it. It shouldn't hurt anything. Unless I'm missing something, it's going directly from the pos. terminal to the alt. so if you leave it all you're doing is running a parallel run of wire.
 
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Are you doing anything like [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] Acrylic layout HERE? Then it looks like no you wouldn't.

But if all you're doing is "upgrading" what's there, then I think you should be able to leave it. It shouldn't hurt anything. Unless I'm missing something, it's going directly from the pos. terminal to the alt. so if you leave it all you're doing is running a parallel run of wire.

I’m installing a CS144 alternator. So I’d like to beef up the wires. I already have a 2 gauge ground from battery to chassis. Before I install the alternator. I’d like to upgrade the positive wire from alternator to the battery also with 2gauge.

So if I do, can I run it in parallel? Is that safe? Does that help? Or so I need to tape of the OEM wire, tuck it aside ? If I do go that route. I’m assuming I will need a fuse inline with 2gauge wire ?
 
I left the Stock wire unhooked. I just used some shrink wrap and covered it and zip tied it to a side wire. I didn't want it diluting my voltage since I didn't know where else it goes. I don't believe I put a fuse inline but I can check today.

Ive done about every power mod you can do including the cs-144 alternator.

(solar panel, dual battery, big 3, cs144)
 
I left the Stock wire unhooked. I just used some shrink wrap and covered it and zip tied it to a side wire. I didn't want it diluting my voltage since I didn't know where else it goes. I don't believe I put a fuse inline but I can check today.

Ive done about every power mod you can do including the cs-144 alternator.

(solar panel, dual battery, big 3, cs144)

Got any tips on installing the cs144??
 
I haven't done the big3 on my truck but I did do it to my civic which has old school amps. I ran 4g wire from alt to battery along with the oem harness. Electricity will take the path of least resistance so....you should be fine using both.
 
I haven't done the big3 on my truck but I did do it to my civic which has old school amps. I ran 4g wire from alt to battery along with the oem harness. Electricity will take the path of least resistance so....you should be fine using both.

Thus being the 2gauge wire.
 
So installed the CS144 along with 1gauge positive wire from the alternator to the battery positive terminal. Did not install a fuse or breaker inline. I also taped of the OEM wire that connects to the alternator and zip tied it to the side. So the OEM wire is 100% isolated.

Few things I came across right away that some dont really mention. The CS144 is HUGE lol. The bolt that your positive wire attaches to is completely in a different location vs the OEM. This is expected as its a Cadilac alternator and not Toyota. So with that said. You need to attach your positive wire first along with the harness adapter. Before bolting the alternator in place. If you bolt the alternator in place, you wont be able to tighten or attach the positive wire. At least not me!

The oem alternator belt does work.

Other few issues but nothing major. It is very close to the dip stick. And right behind the dip stick there is a hose. Not sure what for, but make sure your CS144 is not kinking that hose. Just make sure the hose has smooth bend rather then a straight 90. This hose is, if your looking directly at the bolted alternator it is between the dip stick and left side of the alternator.

1 gauge is probably overkill. But im sure its safe. Right?
 
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