ryanpavelchik
New member
"Bad luck" = "I have no idea"
Love it when mechanics say"bad luck". Lol
Love it when mechanics say"bad luck". Lol
The DDD: OFFICIAL Diff Drop Debate! + PIC/s
- Thread starter 00_4runner
- Start date
Tom_with_a_Dream
New member
I have Bilsteins set at about 2" front and 1" Cornfeds rear and figured the DD was good insurance. Eventually added it, along with flushes and and service to the trans, transfer and diffs (used purchase with over 100,000). Thought I was being smart and efficient.
With the Bilsteins and 32-ish tires it ran just about like stock and no complaints about vibrations or "rubbing, etc" (in driveline, not fenders). Mileage dropped a bit as to be expected. After the service and DD I noticed pretty shortly after that a buzz or rubbing could be "felt" in the seat-of-the-pants and another drop in mileage. Also think I notice a lazier feel on the throttle. (Did they flash my trans ECU to "help" me? Did they re-cal the ECU for tire size and the mileage is just more accurate?)
I have been trying to not overreact to all this but I think there is something to it. But the more I have thought about it and driven it, I have been thinking about getting "something" done. Take it out, verify it was put in right (??), look for an over- or undertorqued bolt, etc?
And then I read this:
I'm such a dumbass. I actually knew the center shaft and u-joints would be non-stock but my brain bite into the "u-joints are more rugged than CVs" and completely ignored the phasing. Not something I deal with daily but I did have the knowledge in there, I should have thought about that.
And for insult to injury...
What are the chances that I can get those OEM bolts back for free? My non-diff drop will cost me twice. Live and learn...
** UPDATE **
Now that I have the diff drop pucks out and have run about 100 miles it seems I have eliminated the rub or imbalance or drag. Nothing yet on the mileage but I figure that will take a while to affect the average. (Could reset the dash but would rather compare like-for-like.)
With the Bilsteins and 32-ish tires it ran just about like stock and no complaints about vibrations or "rubbing, etc" (in driveline, not fenders). Mileage dropped a bit as to be expected. After the service and DD I noticed pretty shortly after that a buzz or rubbing could be "felt" in the seat-of-the-pants and another drop in mileage. Also think I notice a lazier feel on the throttle. (Did they flash my trans ECU to "help" me? Did they re-cal the ECU for tire size and the mileage is just more accurate?)
I have been trying to not overreact to all this but I think there is something to it. But the more I have thought about it and driven it, I have been thinking about getting "something" done. Take it out, verify it was put in right (??), look for an over- or undertorqued bolt, etc?
And then I read this:
I'm such a dumbass. I actually knew the center shaft and u-joints would be non-stock but my brain bite into the "u-joints are more rugged than CVs" and completely ignored the phasing. Not something I deal with daily but I did have the knowledge in there, I should have thought about that.
And for insult to injury...
What are the chances that I can get those OEM bolts back for free? My non-diff drop will cost me twice. Live and learn...
** UPDATE **
Now that I have the diff drop pucks out and have run about 100 miles it seems I have eliminated the rub or imbalance or drag. Nothing yet on the mileage but I figure that will take a while to affect the average. (Could reset the dash but would rather compare like-for-like.)
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foxrider56
New member
quick question I'm removing my diff drop now do you know the stock bolt sizes ?
BrianSD_42
New member
Pretty surprised you all are bringing back to life a thread that was dead for six years. Six years!
That gap pretty much answers the question of did this thread need to be created in the first place.
Yes, install the diff drop.
That gap pretty much answers the question of did this thread need to be created in the first place.
Yes, install the diff drop.
Yoter
New member
Going back to stock?
foxrider56
New member
nope just don't see the need for it
Almost Immediately after a recent lift install ( no diff drop) I started getting vibrations. Chased em for weeks until a fellow forum member suggested that I look at the drivers side needle bearing. East coast gear co makes a replacement bushing due to the fact that the needle bearing frequently fails post lift.
I wonder if a diff drop would increase or decrease the side pressure on the needle bearing that causes it to fail?
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I wonder if a diff drop would increase or decrease the side pressure on the needle bearing that causes it to fail?
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Yoter
New member
I have a diff drop and have been tearing CV boots with ~2.5 inches of lift, I have Tundra 5100's and Eibach 3" springs and SPC UCA's. Do you think it might be worth trying to remove the diff drop?
Did you ever find the bolts you needed? I think I have my stock ones somewhere I will look for and measure them for you if you still need the dimensions
Just wanted to chime in on this subject - I bought my truck with a 3" lift - (881/890 plus 1/2" spacer in front) and diff drop installed. I didn't feel the need to keep that much height, and it was on stock shocks, so I went to an 880/906 with 5100's recently - and the steering has been light and super darty, felt very unstable at highway speeds. Decided to try taking the diff drop out last night, to my surprise it made a huge difference. Steering is back to being nice and solid, heavier feeling. After realizing that the spacers only move the front half of the diff, I'm not much of a fan. But it did drive fairly normal with the 3" lift.
I was looking for this recently as well - a good option is a 6.5" long 1/2" bolt - I believe the OE ones are m14 but cannot confirm.
I was looking for this recently as well - a good option is a 6.5" long 1/2" bolt - I believe the OE ones are m14 but cannot confirm.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
After tearing 2 boots post-lift, I have been running a DD for about 5000 miles. Is the current thinking still that DD=BAD?
TW44LR
New member
Also wondering what the general consensus is. Only torn one so far but have heard different opinions on the diff drop.
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pluton
Senior Member
In 2013 I acquired my 4Runner. 1997 SR5 5-speed, 120K miles, 265/70 stock size tires. Needed new springs/shocks front and rear. Selected 881/890 springs. The shop that helped me select the springs poo-pooed diff drops when I brought the subject up.
Now: What I assume are the original CV axles are still working OK...no noises or boot failures...at 185K miles. That includes maybe up to a couple of thousand miles of 4WD driving.
Conclusion: Diff drop was not necessary for my rig.
Now: What I assume are the original CV axles are still working OK...no noises or boot failures...at 185K miles. That includes maybe up to a couple of thousand miles of 4WD driving.
Conclusion: Diff drop was not necessary for my rig.
I thought the 881/890 set up only added 1.5 inch to 2 inch lift with about 110 lbs of extra weight up front. I could be wrong. I think the diff drops were originaly for 3 inch lifts anad bigger. So if your only going up to 2 inches I dont think they are needed ( from my research) My last lift was 3 inch and I did the diff drop and the panhard correction brackets. I had no vibrations. I think my next will be no more than 2 and not do a diff drop, but might still do the panhard brackets as they were designed for 2 inch or more lift. When toyota did the 99 highlander version, that was the tallest from factory....an extra inch....they did not mess with the diff or anything else, not even the shocks, but that was only 1 inch.
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pluton
Senior Member
All correct, except I never added the heavier front bumper or constant 200 pound load in the rear, so on mine, it's a "tall" 2 inches.
fourfive
Senior Member
I had a vibration after installing my lift & diff drop several years ago but for me it only occurred at highway speeds in AWD. About a year later I removed the diff drop because I couldn't visually tell a difference in the cv angles with it installed. Surprisingly the vibration I had was gone. I have no idea if the diff drop was the cause but the vibration has been gone since i removed it several years ago.
CV bind
I only saw one comment about CV bind & this was not addressed. GX470 with 3” lift. Had bad vibration on acceleration before installing diff drop. Much better now that I installed the diff drop. It was & is CV bind. My factory CV shafts bind at full droop. I’d NEVER take my diff drop out & I plan on adding to it till there is no bind at full droop.
I only saw one comment about CV bind & this was not addressed. GX470 with 3” lift. Had bad vibration on acceleration before installing diff drop. Much better now that I installed the diff drop. It was & is CV bind. My factory CV shafts bind at full droop. I’d NEVER take my diff drop out & I plan on adding to it till there is no bind at full droop.
Devbot
New member
I would heavily suggest you look into limiting straps
