**The Duster 2.0 - 00' 4Runner SR5**
- Thread starter rickashay
- Start date
fightman80
New member
Addison!! You're back! I've recently started to lurk again... glad to see you came back to the 3rd Gen world!
I'm still loving my Mean Green!
I'm still loving my Mean Green!
rickashay
New member
Good call. I honestly didn't know that line was there initially when I was taking everything apart. I pulled off the TB and coolant lines and didn't even notice that vacuum line. I did however see it when I was re-installing and I triple checked all my lines last night.
Addison!! You're back! I've recently started to lurk again... glad to see you came back to the 3rd Gen world!
I'm still loving my Mean Green!
Hey Rob! You bet. It's cool to be back actually. Big part of it is this particular section of the 4Runner community - one of the few active use groups still out there. Glad to see you're still rocking Mean Green. Looks like your new garage setup is pretty dialed as well!
UPDATE:
Chasing down the high idle - SOLVED?
So last night I triple checked all my vacuum lines and all looked good. Actually found a small bracket on the driver's side that I forgot to attach to the lower intake plenum, so I'm glad I was in there snooping around.
I decided to pull the Throttle Body off the truck again and remove the IAC (didn't do this initially). I ordered a OEM gasket for it so I knew I would be setup in case the old one was toast. After getting it all apart it was fairly clean in there (no gunk buildup really) but I was just extra diligent this time about making sure everything went together perfectly and as clean as possible. Put everything back together and shimmed the TB mechanism out with a slightly larger washer than before (probably a hair smaller than 1/16" now).
Started the truck and it immediately idled at like 1500 RPM. Stumped, I went inside thinking I should do one more round of research and then think about buying a used TB to replace mine. I didn't really find any new information last night other than to re-adjust my throttle cable (I need to do this but I do not think it's the cause of my issue) and to try pulling the EFI fuse to force the computer to re-learn the idle. So this morning I pulled the EFI fuse and left it for 5 minutes. Drove to my brothers house a few blocks away and it was still idling high after warming up at around 1100 RPM. Let it idle while I waited for him to jump in the car with me (we carpool to work lots). Suddenly without any reason the idle dropped to 600 RPM. The engine was running perfectly smooth just with a lower idle, YES! After a couple more minutes it bumped up to about 900 RPM, and then a couple minutes later seemed to settle around 700 RPM. I then drove into town (30 kms) and the idle remained at the 700 ish mark. I will keep driving it and checking over the next couple of days but I am pretty sure the EFI fuse did the trick and this am the truck was bouncing around trying to re-learn the idle. Hope it stays happy and I can start modding this thing!
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farmerjon
Senior Member
Wowie, yes! So stoked for the Duster II! This thread is like an OG reunion, so fantastic to see many of the old names I've read up on over the years and followed! Welcome back to the "3rd gen, best gen" section. No place like it.
Enjoy the new ride - looks like a solid base to start with and a great unicorn at that, with a '00 manual!
:hatsoff:
Enjoy the new ride - looks like a solid base to start with and a great unicorn at that, with a '00 manual!
:hatsoff:
Flemster
Member
I battled a high idle for some time and tried just about everything. Then I came across this video.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IIbTvxR1TQk" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Simple fix, if that is your problem. Mine would idle at like 1200 sometimes higher while warm. But I could blip the throttle to get it to settle. Or manually wiggle the throttle cable.
So if it doesn't seem to stay better give this a shot, or check for these symptoms.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IIbTvxR1TQk" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Simple fix, if that is your problem. Mine would idle at like 1200 sometimes higher while warm. But I could blip the throttle to get it to settle. Or manually wiggle the throttle cable.
So if it doesn't seem to stay better give this a shot, or check for these symptoms.
NO WAY
Long time ghost fan here and 1.0 was a big reason I hopped on the 4Runner train!! Absolutely stoked for your build man, when I stumbled across this post I couldn't believe it was true. What a coincidence ill be starting mine soon here too(;
Also, seems like you've showed interest in some extra power under the hood? Love to swap ideas because an engine swap dream has turned into a reality for me
Long time ghost fan here and 1.0 was a big reason I hopped on the 4Runner train!! Absolutely stoked for your build man, when I stumbled across this post I couldn't believe it was true. What a coincidence ill be starting mine soon here too(;
Also, seems like you've showed interest in some extra power under the hood? Love to swap ideas because an engine swap dream has turned into a reality for me
Collkid
New member
Well, i have no idea who you are, but your builds all look pretty epic.
Welcome back to the 3rd gen world.
My wife and I have a 10 month old, we have found the 4runner to be too small with a baby unfortunately. We are currently looking for something bigger. Hopefully a 100 LC.
montijo505
Senior Member
Collkid
New member
yup. Trying to get into something bigger.
Hate to sell it, but it looks like we are going that way.
/hijack
Here is a ton of info on the Landcruiser Coils
LC coil spring Color codes - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
Yoter
New member
Good to see you back in a 3rd Gen!
Is the idle still jumping around or has it stayed at about 700?
This might be obvious but did you clean you MAF and is it an OEM MAF?
I had an aftermarket MAF on my last 4Runner after about a year, the idle started jumping around in a similar manner to what you are experiencing. It also started after cleaning the throttle body. I ended up replacing both the IAC and MAF. I thought I had fried the IAC by cleaning the throttle body without removing it, but my inconsistent and high idle symptoms continued and finally an installing a new OEM MAF did the trick.
I look forward to seeing the build!
rickashay
New member
Excellent, thanks for the resource... I picked up some 7 wraps. Stoked to get them in soon.
Hey thanks! Your truck continues to evolve. It's great to see and props for having it so long! How many years have you owned it?
Thanks! The issue is now resolved. A combination of the washer mod, re-cleaning the throttle body and IAC, and letting the engine go through a couple startup cycles to figure itself out is what did the trick.
Yeeeewww! Thanks
rickashay
New member
UPDATE
Work has been busy (good problem to have when you're self employed!) so not much time to wrench on the truck but I have been slowly ticking off the boxes. Can you spot the mod below?
Toytec 1" Bodylift installed. Steering is tight, I think I might need to pull the steering spacer and drill the entire way through the spacer - not sure why Toytec just milled them through halfway.... seems cheaper and easier AND less problematic (more clearance for steering rag joint bolts) if they just drilled the thing out the whole way. Ugh... sad face.
IMG_4125.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
I was out in Vancouver with my wife for a few days a few weeks ago and came across a set of 4.30 E-locker diffs and a rear axle housing from a 99' 4Runner. Not all that rare of a combo but the icing on the cake with this one is that the truck was from California - virtually no rust. I loaded the parts up into the CR-V and now have a good donor setup for the E-Locker swap and all the [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] parts going onto the Duster.
Rear axle and links are all pulled. My 4Runner is pretty clean (for Canadian standards at least) but the small amount of surface rust on the welds and especially in the rear around the rear axle had me wanting to be as proactive as possible. Once the rear end was out I went to town with the wire wheel and started to clean everything up. Cleaned everything off and prepped the surface of the frame and all axle components from the front LCA's back in preparation for the POR15.
In the beginning...
_08I5434.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Spare tire carrier components removed and surface prepped for paint. (I'm going to need an F150 fuel tank back there soon!)
_08I5443.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Rear E-Locker Axle:
_08I5438.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Prepped and ready for POR15:
_08I5446.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Should be painting all the surfaces on Saturday and then getting the new rear end back in place by the end of the weekend. Rear shocks are on backorder but I'll get the axle and springs installed and then start pulling the front end apart.
SIDE NOTE: I'm going to start a YouTube channel and start making some SHORT videos around building the truck. Installation & how-to style videos but also just some general information about suspension selection etc. If I can start to build an audience I'll keep making more videos.... we'll see how it goes but stay tuned for an update on that!
Work has been busy (good problem to have when you're self employed!) so not much time to wrench on the truck but I have been slowly ticking off the boxes. Can you spot the mod below?
Toytec 1" Bodylift installed. Steering is tight, I think I might need to pull the steering spacer and drill the entire way through the spacer - not sure why Toytec just milled them through halfway.... seems cheaper and easier AND less problematic (more clearance for steering rag joint bolts) if they just drilled the thing out the whole way. Ugh... sad face.
IMG_4125.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
I was out in Vancouver with my wife for a few days a few weeks ago and came across a set of 4.30 E-locker diffs and a rear axle housing from a 99' 4Runner. Not all that rare of a combo but the icing on the cake with this one is that the truck was from California - virtually no rust. I loaded the parts up into the CR-V and now have a good donor setup for the E-Locker swap and all the [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] parts going onto the Duster.
Rear axle and links are all pulled. My 4Runner is pretty clean (for Canadian standards at least) but the small amount of surface rust on the welds and especially in the rear around the rear axle had me wanting to be as proactive as possible. Once the rear end was out I went to town with the wire wheel and started to clean everything up. Cleaned everything off and prepped the surface of the frame and all axle components from the front LCA's back in preparation for the POR15.
In the beginning...
_08I5434.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Spare tire carrier components removed and surface prepped for paint. (I'm going to need an F150 fuel tank back there soon!)
_08I5443.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Rear E-Locker Axle:
_08I5438.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Prepped and ready for POR15:
_08I5446.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Should be painting all the surfaces on Saturday and then getting the new rear end back in place by the end of the weekend. Rear shocks are on backorder but I'll get the axle and springs installed and then start pulling the front end apart.
SIDE NOTE: I'm going to start a YouTube channel and start making some SHORT videos around building the truck. Installation & how-to style videos but also just some general information about suspension selection etc. If I can start to build an audience I'll keep making more videos.... we'll see how it goes but stay tuned for an update on that!
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JWaldz
Moderator
rickashay
New member
I suck at updates. Been updating my IG account as I work on the truck more, so follow me there if you haven't already. I made a "Highlight" specifically relating to the truck build.
-------> [MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION]24
I basically have the whole rear end back in the truck with everything coated in POR15. Still need to wire in the E-locker but I can do that at a later date.
Currently the whole front end is out (diff included as I swap to 4.30's for the short term plan) and I just cut off the factory cam-tabs and replaced with TC ones. Working on spindle gussets today and the Eimkeith Strut Tower Reinforcement. Once all the welding is done, I'll coat it all in POR15 and then the new parts will start going in. Should be on the road by next weekend and I should have an influx of updates and actualy photos this week as it all happens.
-------> [MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION]24
I basically have the whole rear end back in the truck with everything coated in POR15. Still need to wire in the E-locker but I can do that at a later date.
Currently the whole front end is out (diff included as I swap to 4.30's for the short term plan) and I just cut off the factory cam-tabs and replaced with TC ones. Working on spindle gussets today and the Eimkeith Strut Tower Reinforcement. Once all the welding is done, I'll coat it all in POR15 and then the new parts will start going in. Should be on the road by next weekend and I should have an influx of updates and actualy photos this week as it all happens.
soonenough
New member
Really excited to see this play out. The original Duster is still one of my all-time favorite builds, and takes me back to fond memories of scrolling through your amazing photostream on Flickr. I loved all of the build and trip photos from back in that timeframe. Duster 1.0 was also the thing that got me interested in retrofitting... so apparently your builds are hazardous to my wallet haha.
Any update on the YouTube channel? I'll definitely check out those videos once you start posting them. Keep up the good work bud!
Any update on the YouTube channel? I'll definitely check out those videos once you start posting them. Keep up the good work bud!
rickashay
New member
UPDATE
Ok, been wrenching as hard as I can for the 3 hours per week that I have spare time. haha Having a 3-week-old and a new growing business has been taxing on my wrenching time. But it's ok, I'll get the Duster 2 done and ready for Colossal and our Utah/Colorado trip in October!!
Lucky for me, my alignment cams were not seized despite them being original. Regardless I pulled them out, buffed them with a wire wheel and re-installed them with as much copper-coat as I could physically get on them. New Toyota LCA's, LBJ's, OTRE's, and stainless brake lines went in as well.
For the fun parts I welded in the [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] Strut Tower Reinforcement Kit to make sure this IFS rig is ready for more abuse than I will ever throw at it. As always, the stuff from Keith fits perfectly and has been a fun transition to modding the truck more seriously than just bolt-on parts. The Weld-it-yourself stuff has been great for helping me improve my skills on the welder. Poly Performance 10" limit straps with the Trail Gear clevis kits were ordered to complete the whole front end system. Plastics Guy Durobumpstops installed along with SPC UCA's (sitting at the "F" position) and Tundra Bilstein 6112's.
TC Cam Tab Gussets and a lot of anti-seize:
_08I9049.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Eimkeith Limit strap tabs welded to the new LCA's (these are included with the strut tower reinforcement kit):
_08I9047.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
For the Limit straps, I would order 8" straps if I did this again. Nothing wrong with the 10" but I found I was forced to make a mount for the clevis slightly higher than the top of the frame rail to ensure I have enough adjustment. An 8" strap could have been welded below the top of the frame rail, eliminating the need for the custom mounts that I made:
_08I9050.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Mocked up and almost ready for wheels. Looking forward to NOT having uniballs or heim joints on this truck. Less time for maintenance and more time exploring!
_08I9054.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
**Something to note for anyone with TC spindle gussets - the small factory bracket that attaches to the spindle to hold the U-clip between the brake calliper hardline and the flexline connection will no longer work. It interferes with the TC spindle gussets. I am guessing most people just run tacoma lines and due away with the calliper hardline altogether. I forgot this detail when ordering my lines and have off-the-shelf stainless 3rd gen 4runner lines, meaning I have to keep the hardline. I cut and modified the original bracket and re-welded it back together. It allowed me to rotate the bracket away from the spindle and mount the brake lines up without much bending to the factory hardline. I'm going to drop the coilover and cycle the suspension just to make sure it clears at full bump but I think it should work. I'll get detailed photos once I know that it's legit.**
And a final tease because it's been so long... (front end is still on the jackstands and zero weight in the back, so the whole truck is probably sitting an inch or more too high). Stoked to see it with the wheels/tires on though.
_08I9060.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Ok, been wrenching as hard as I can for the 3 hours per week that I have spare time. haha Having a 3-week-old and a new growing business has been taxing on my wrenching time. But it's ok, I'll get the Duster 2 done and ready for Colossal and our Utah/Colorado trip in October!!
Lucky for me, my alignment cams were not seized despite them being original. Regardless I pulled them out, buffed them with a wire wheel and re-installed them with as much copper-coat as I could physically get on them. New Toyota LCA's, LBJ's, OTRE's, and stainless brake lines went in as well.
For the fun parts I welded in the [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] Strut Tower Reinforcement Kit to make sure this IFS rig is ready for more abuse than I will ever throw at it. As always, the stuff from Keith fits perfectly and has been a fun transition to modding the truck more seriously than just bolt-on parts. The Weld-it-yourself stuff has been great for helping me improve my skills on the welder. Poly Performance 10" limit straps with the Trail Gear clevis kits were ordered to complete the whole front end system. Plastics Guy Durobumpstops installed along with SPC UCA's (sitting at the "F" position) and Tundra Bilstein 6112's.
TC Cam Tab Gussets and a lot of anti-seize:
_08I9049.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Eimkeith Limit strap tabs welded to the new LCA's (these are included with the strut tower reinforcement kit):
_08I9047.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
For the Limit straps, I would order 8" straps if I did this again. Nothing wrong with the 10" but I found I was forced to make a mount for the clevis slightly higher than the top of the frame rail to ensure I have enough adjustment. An 8" strap could have been welded below the top of the frame rail, eliminating the need for the custom mounts that I made:
_08I9050.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
Mocked up and almost ready for wheels. Looking forward to NOT having uniballs or heim joints on this truck. Less time for maintenance and more time exploring!
_08I9054.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
**Something to note for anyone with TC spindle gussets - the small factory bracket that attaches to the spindle to hold the U-clip between the brake calliper hardline and the flexline connection will no longer work. It interferes with the TC spindle gussets. I am guessing most people just run tacoma lines and due away with the calliper hardline altogether. I forgot this detail when ordering my lines and have off-the-shelf stainless 3rd gen 4runner lines, meaning I have to keep the hardline. I cut and modified the original bracket and re-welded it back together. It allowed me to rotate the bracket away from the spindle and mount the brake lines up without much bending to the factory hardline. I'm going to drop the coilover and cycle the suspension just to make sure it clears at full bump but I think it should work. I'll get detailed photos once I know that it's legit.**
And a final tease because it's been so long... (front end is still on the jackstands and zero weight in the back, so the whole truck is probably sitting an inch or more too high). Stoked to see it with the wheels/tires on though.
_08I9060.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
