"The Sequel"

[Lamer]

1996 Toyota 4runner SR5

As she sits

Bit of background: previously owned a 2002 SR5, 270K miles, very mild build but was a ton of fun. Regret Selling it. But now that I have had time to really think about what I want in a vehicle, I have chosen to get back in to the game with .....THE SEQUEL........

The Sequel [1996 SR5, 250K miles, $,3800], is going to be a long lasting daily drive/weekend camper/get stuck every once in a while vehicle for me. I Bought it in Sacramento, and road tripped to Houston via Tuscon, and Big Bend National Park. the road trip gave me insite to the issues that exist, and areas to improve upon.

Condition As purchased:
250,000 miles
Revtek 3" spacer lift with original springs/shocks - REMOVED AND UPGRADED
Clear coat gone on the hood, chipped on the fenders
Driver's seat mounting nut was cut out, still have the nut, self tapping screw is now holding the corner down.
Front seats torn and stained badly - REPLACED
Front passenger door did not open from outside - FIXED
Aftermarket wheels, not sure what kind, still a 16" wheel with 285/75/16 tires 70% tred REPLACED WITH TACOMA STEEL WHEELS
Rear Hatch struts are shot - REPLACED
Driver door, when unlocked with key, does not unlock the other doors
Rear window wiper blade is missing - REPLACED
Radio Antenna is missing

To make it livable, and more comfortable for the road trip, I did a few things:
- cleaned old dirty carpet,
- scrubbed, cleaned and installed "new" sporty seats from a 97 SR5 I found in a Pick-n-Pull
- replaced non retracting seat belt with Pick-n-Pull SR5 fully functional seat belt
- basic maintenance: fluids, check belts, battery check, rain-ex...
- fixed front pass door handle
- SeaFoam in the gas tank

The plan now, is to bring The Sequel back to safe, fully operational status, and improve upon from there.

 

[Lamer]

Modifications and Maintenance

Underbody:

Wheels and Tires:

• Stealth Custom Series F5 - Bronze :bounce:
• 285/75/16
• 1" Trail Gear wheel adapters (spacers)

Front:

• Tundra YY/YB coils
• Bilstein 5100 Struts
• Duralast Upper Ball Joints
• OEM Lower Ball Joints
• Wheel bearing, driver's side (previous owner)
• 1" Diff drop (previous owner)
• New OEM brake lines

Rear:

• OME 890 coils (page 3, post 39)
• Bilstein 5100 Struts
• Extended brake line
• Differential Breather Extension
• Whiteline control arm bushings
• EimKeith Panhard Bar Correction Kit

Steering:

• Duralast Tie-Rod end links
• 555 Tie Rods
• Energy Suspension Poly Bushings
• Steering rack guide replaced
• Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement (page 11, post 153)
• New OEM Steering Rack and Pinion (page 11, post 156)

Engine Bay/Drivetrain:

• TRD Supercharger :bounce: (page 11, post 157)
• URD 7th Injector kit:bounce::bounce:
• TransGo Shift Kit
• External inline trans cooler
• Trans Temp sensor and gauge
• Catalytic Converter (previous owner)
• Starter (previous owner)
• Battery (previous owner)
• Radiator (previous owner)
• NKG Spark plugs and wires (previous owner)
• New Rear Drive Shaft (previous owner)
• AirRaid intake tube
• Big 3 Upgrade (page 7 post 96)
• Military Spec battery terminals
• Timing Belt (page 7 post 104)
• Water Pump (page 7 post 104)
• Crank and Cam seals (page 7 post 104)
• Drive Belts (page 7 post 104)
• Duralast Gold Battery (page 7 post 104)
• TRD Oil fill cap page 8 post 117
• Hood Struts (page 8 post 120)
• 170degF Thermostat
• Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
• Camshaft Position Sensor

Interior:

• Sport adjustable seats from 97 SR5
• Scangauge 2 LINK (Ripcord's THREAD has details for getting trans temp.)
• AMERICA turning knob
• Late Model Center Console, with switch plate (page 5, post 69)
• Weathertech floormats (love these)
• KillMat sound deadening on floor, all doors, rear quarter panels. (really makes a difference, its ridiculous)
• Window Belt Felt replacement (page 8 post 112)
• LED interior map, dome and cargo lights

Exterior:

• FX-R 3" HID Projectors in TYC clear lenses and housing (page 8 post 118)
• Satoshi Grill with "TOYOTA" lettering
• Air Ram Intake Snorkel
• Strong Arm Lift Supports
• Hood w/ Scoop
• Rear bumper vent replaced with OEM PT#62940-35010
• Whitson Metalworks Roof Rack (page 7 post 99)
• LED Reverse Lights (page 7 post 100)
• Cadillac Horns (page 8 post 106)
• LED Tail lights
• Monstaliner entire exterior - Grrrraber Blue - LINK

To-Do/Wish List:

• 4:10 geared E-locked rear diff
• Wet Okole sear covers LINK(1996-98 SR5 Sport Adjustable Seats)
• JDM Rain Guards, or WELLvisors rain guards LINK
• TRD Radiator cap
• Coastal Offroad Front Bumper LINK or Shrockworks LINK
• Hilux body mount tire carrier (in my dreams)
• King Coilovers
• Window tint with 4" windshield tint
• Rock Sliders
• Side marker lights

Maintenance / Major Dates Tracker:

• 250083 miles - Purchased January 4th 2018! :guitar3:
• 254120 miles - DR & Pass UBJ & LJB + Bilstein 5100 struts + Tundra TRD YY/YB coils
• 254200 miles - Poly Steering Rack bushings + Late Model Rack Guide
• 254929 miles - Pass CV Axle replacement
• 255980 miles - Sylvania Silver-star Ultra Bulbs
• 255030 miles - Texas State Inspection + Oil Change (Synthetic) + SeaFoam Spray down intake and in gas tank
• 255660 miles - Valve Cover Gaskets + PCV Gromet
• 257840 miles - Cleaned blower motor fan (disgusting) (page 7 post 91)
• 258890 miles - Replaced Timing Belt + Water Pump + Crank seal + Cam seals + drive belts
• 258904 miles - Replaced Battery with Duralast Gold (Sept 3, 2018)
• 260001 miles - 2012 Tacoma steel wheels + 255/85/16 BFG KM2's
• 260623 miles - Oil Change (Synthetic)
• 263000 miles - SCS Bronze wheels + 285/75/16 BFG All Terrain's
• 264000 miles - 170degF Thermostat + Walbro 190lph fuel pump installed
• 264080 miles - Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement
• 265030 miles - New OEM Steeking rack installed
• 265870 miles - TRD Supercharger + URD 7th Injector installed
• 266128 miles - TransGo Shift Kit install, external trans cooler, trans temp sensor + gauge
• 282457 miles - Camshaft Position Sensor

 

[BigFishAllDay]

It sounds like you've made a good dent in the list already. It will feel like a new vehicle once you get a fresh suspension under it.

Congrats on the new project, good luck, and welcome to the forum.

 

[Lamer]

It sounds like you've made a good dent in the list already. It will feel like a new vehicle once you get a fresh suspension under it.

Congrats on the new project, good luck, and welcome to the forum.

Thanks Fish, really looking forward to this one.

The suspension purchasing has already begun. Decided on the classic Tundra TRD/OME 890/Bilstein 5100 set up.

 

[Lamer]

Bought just about everything for a complete front end and partial rear suspension refresh:

Bilstein 5100 struts (x4)
OME 890 rear springs
Tundra TRD Front coils
Front upper ball joints
Front lower ball joints
Steering end links
Pass CV axle

Need to buy: PLEASE HELP!! where can I get the full set?
Front upper and lower control arm bushings
Rear upper and lower control arm bushings

hopefully going to install this week.

 

[Scramble]

I hope those Duralast boxes dont contain LBJ's. You should only use OEM for those.
Otherwise good luck with her.

 

[Lamer]

I hope those Duralast boxes dont contain LBJ's. You should only use OEM for those.
Otherwise good luck with her.

any specific reason as to why? high failure rates?

I purchased the Duralast upper and lower ball joints.

 

[Scramble]

any specific reason as to why? high failure rates?

I purchased the Duralast upper and lower ball joints.

Yea, anything other than OEM for LBJ's has a high failure rate. You should be fine for the uppers. It doesn't have catastrophic consequences when it fails.
Just Google "3rd gen 4runner LBJ failure" & look at the pics. I'm sure it will change your mind.

 

[01_4_runner]

what fender flares are those? need to cover some rust for at least the winter untill its worm enough to do some body work.

 

[thecole1098]

I have Moog LBJs and they are fine. Just remember to pump about 5 shots of grease every other oil change and you'll be good.

 

[audiness]

love the color

 

[Lamer]

Yea, anything other than OEM for LBJ's has a high failure rate. You should be fine for the uppers. It doesn't have catastrophic consequences when it fails.
Just Google "3rd gen 4runner LBJ failure" & look at the pics. I'm sure it will change your mind.

ooh ya good call on the pictures. is the OEM a TRW Ball Joint? hoping to buy this at Autozone.

43340-39465 and 43330-39585 are the part numbers I have for OEM. Can find them on CamelbackToyota.com comes to $215

I have Moog LBJs and they are fine. Just remember to pump about 5 shots of grease every other oil change and you'll be good.

havent thought of Moog. that might be a good alternatince

what fender flares are those? need to cover some rust for at least the winter untill its worm enough to do some body work.

not sure exactly, they came with the car. I believe they are the standard SR5 flares for the 96 model. I could be wrong, my flare knowledge is not up to par...

love the color

thanks! (I might need to paint, (plastidip) my hood black as the clear coat is completely gone.)

 

[Lamer]

I hope those Duralast boxes dont contain LBJ's. You should only use OEM for those.
Otherwise good luck with her.

well, went ahead and bought OEM LBJ this morning. and returned the Duralast LBJ's.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Now just looking for a friend and/or shop to help with the work. hopefully I can manage all of this stuff in one day.

 

[Lamer]

rear B-5100 tundra bushing swap to 3/4" 4runner bushing

while waiting on a furniture delivery, I managed to push out the tundra bushings, and press in the 3/4" 4runner bushings

the new bushings: Daystar Universal 3/4" ID Hourglass Shock Eye Bushing Kit PN# KU08007BK

all it took was a Tie Rod/Inner Bearing Race Puller, a washer, and a zip tie.

once the first half of the bushing is pressed in, use a tip tie and tie it around the second half. This keeps the bushing from squishing out, and will help force it into the shock hoop. worked like a charm.

a picture of during, and then after, and the tool

 

[Lamer]

Made my way to a couple shops around town today to get quotes on the work below: (I have all the parts, they were quoting the labor only)

replace Upper and lower ball joints on driver and passenger sides
Pass CV axle
both tie rod ends
assemble new front coils and struts
install new front coils and struts
install rear coils and struts

Guess what the lowest quote was..........$1,972.87!!!!!!!!! thats bonkers.

so looks like I will find a shop to assemble the front struts for me, and do the rest of the work myself.

fortunately two of the shops inspected my control arm bushings and both shops said they are ok and do not need replacing. that helps but down on the man hours big time. plus, after replacing nearly everything else, if there is anything funky about my front end, I will know where to start looking.

also discovered my steering rach bushings were very worn. so I ordered a new set off amazon. gotta love free 2 day shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN7AKS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Lamer]

99 center console bezel only swap?

Will this swap directly into my 1996 center console?

 

[calimobber]

so looks like I will find a shop to assemble the front struts for me, and do the rest of the work myself.

You can do it yourself without much issue. I bought one of these since I felt a little safer than the dual clamps. I tweaked it a little so I just tossed it after I was done. was cheaper that way then paying a shop.

https://www.amazon.com/Yaheetech-Si...2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1516476097&sr=1-22

Or you can spend more money on a nicer one and have it around for friends or future uses. I bet a shop will charge you around $100+ to do it.

 

[Lamer]

You can do it yourself without much issue. I bought one of these since I felt a little safer than the dual clamps. I tweaked it a little so I just tossed it after I was done. was cheaper that way then paying a shop.

https://www.amazon.com/Yaheetech-Si...2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1516476097&sr=1-22

Or you can spend more money on a nicer one and have it around for friends or future uses. I bet a shop will charge you around $100+ to do it.

oh man thanks for the link. I found a shop that was actually just across the street from my apartment. $60

Looks like Monday is the day. getting everything prepped and making sure I have all of the right sized sockets and tools. I have watched enough videos I hope I can get all of this done in one day.

 

[Lamer]

Lift, ball joints, tie-rod end links, and poly bushing preparations

Have everything layed out, went through all of manuals and youtube videos and disocvered I need to buy a 24mm and 22mm socket. hoping to get all of this done in one day and completely change the characteristics of the ride feel.

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

Interesting project you got yourself. What do you plan to do with the paint?
I have some clear coat issues myself I'm now noticing.
Just need to know what Seafoam does for the gas tank.
Thanks