Thermostat replacement guide - & TIMING BELT/WATER PUMP

[dnath28]

Hey all,

I recently fell victim to the Pink Milkshake and posted an earlier thread regarding it. I resolved this issue and swapped out the radiator and flushed out the transmission.

I am now experiencing an overheating issue. The radiator feed tube swells up and gets very hot but my engine over heats and no heat can be felt in the cab with heat on high.

So I want to replace the thermostat because I believe this is the issue. I am at 192k miles and have never replaced anything on the vehicle yet. Just the radiator. While I am replacing the thermostat what else should I replace while I am in there? I just read that the timing belt and water pump should be replaced at 90k. Is there anything else that I should be replacing besides these 3 items?

Also, is there a write up on how to replace the thermostat, timing belt and water pump? I would like to read up on the parts I will need and also how to do it. I am very new to all this but I enjoy working on my vehicle now.

After having the pink milkshake episode I want to be up to date on preventing any major issues in the future that can be avoided (like the pink milkshake). Prevention is my aim here.

Any one know where a guide could be? Also any ideas of what my issue could be? And any ideas of what else I could replace while I am in the thermostat/timing belt/water pump etc..

Thanks!
Dan

 

[amalik]

I feel bad for you because you kind of missed out on doing the thermostat while your radiator hoses were disconnected, radiator was out of the vehicle, etc. You don't HAVE to have the radiator out for the Thermostat, but its A LOT easier. There's a Thermostat guide on YotaTech, when I find some time later I can maybe dig it up for you.

Timing belt and water pump are not that simple of a DIY yourself job for the first time. We are talking major engine issues that you are going to pay a lot of money for if you screw stuff up. You can find plenty of tutorials/walk-through's online if you want to risk it. I'd recommend getting some help for your first time and yes at 90k-100k that is a good job to do.

 

[AntiVenom]

Toyota Maintenance: 3.4L V6 Timing Belt Replacement

Great FAQ

changing just the timing belt is one of those tasks that can either be easy peasy, if you have all the tools, or a 2 day PITA if you don't and have to fab your own.

in addition, there are a lot of components that you could also change while you are down there. timing belt bearings, tensioner, cam and front crank seal. and things that you'd be silly not to change (depending on age); belts; thermostat, water pump, etc.

edit: one of the must have tools is something that will hold the crank pulley for loosening and tightening. there are several home brew solutions, and there is also a very expensive specialty service tool (SST). i went with a lesser expensive SST ~$70 that was meant for holding the cam sprocket. other advantage is, it works for the cam sprocket removal too

it's held up for 3 timing belt jobs so far. the only catch is you have to fab some bolts to fit in to the crankpulley holes (10mm bolts, fine pitch, with the threads ground off, and nuts to match). here are some photos. PM me if you have any questions.

if you decide to change the front seals, and dont have a seal removal tool, lmk, i have a trick that involves a wood screw and a hammer that works flawlessly.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Here is what I did @ 90K miles. It's a pain to get in there so I did it all while I had the radiator out and grill off:

Oil (Mobil1 5W30 @ 5.2 quarts) Filter (Pure1 PL10241), Timing Belt & Idler Pulleys, Water Pump, Alternator, Radiator Hoses, Oil Cooler Hoses, Thermostat, Transmission Fluid Change, Antifreeze Change, Air, PS and Alternator Drive Belts, Checked Front Brake Pads (Good)

I have a great tool my brother made to hold the crank pulley when removing the bolt. You will NOT get the bolt out of there without a tool. I will be happy to let you use it for free but will require a deposit so I know I'll get it back.

 

[dnath28]

I have a great tool my brother made to hold the crank pulley when removing the bolt. You will NOT get the bolt out of there without a tool. I will be happy to let you use it for free but will require a deposit so I know I'll get it back.

Thanks for the offer, Im going to ask advanced auto parts for all the tools I will need for the job though. I believe they carry the tools I will need for this. My water pump, timing belt kit come in this week so I plan on starting tomorrow. Hopefully all goes well and everything will be updated and running!


Cheers,
Dan

 

[TheDurk]

1. I waited until 120k to do my WP/TB. The TB almost never fails on its own until well past this.(See the megathread on YT). The WP is more likely to go and take the belt with it. As long as there is no worrisome coolant loss or WP noise, your risk is minimal as this is a non-interference engine.

2. At 120k, it is easier to justify doing all the ancillary stuff at the same time: idlers, tensioner, thermostat, hoses, aux. belts.

3. I did it with the rad in place and a piece of heavy cardboard against it for protection. Plenty of room, as long as you are not using an impact. For just the thermostat, there is really zero reason to pull the rad. Just drain down the coolant some, take the hose off, unscrew one nut and two bolts, and remove the cover and thermostat.

4. My favorite TB DIY:

http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/general-tech/325-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html

 

[TheDurk]

Here is what I did @ 90K miles. It's a pain to get in there so I did it all while I had the radiator out and grill off:

Oil (Mobil1 5W30 @ 5.2 quarts) Filter (Pure1 PL10241), Timing Belt & Idler Pulleys, Water Pump, Alternator, Radiator Hoses, Oil Cooler Hoses, Thermostat, Transmission Fluid Change, Antifreeze Change, Air, PS and Alternator Drive Belts, Checked Front Brake Pads (Good)

I have a great tool my brother made to hold the crank pulley when removing the bolt. You will NOT get the bolt out of there without a tool. I will be happy to let you use it for free but will require a deposit so I know I'll get it back.

You changed the alternator as a maintenance item? Please tell me you did NOT pull a good factory Denso at 90k for an aftermarket or reman replacement because that would be...questionable.

 

[dnath28]

1. I waited until 120k to do my WP/TB. The TB almost never fails on its own until well past this.(See the megathread on YT). The WP is more likely to go and take the belt with it. As long as there is no worrisome coolant loss or WP noise, your risk is minimal as this is a non-interference engine.

2. At 120k, it is easier to justify doing all the ancillary stuff at the same time: idlers, tensioner, thermostat, hoses, aux. belts.

3. I did it with the rad in place and a piece of heavy cardboard against it for protection. Plenty of room, as long as you are not using an impact. For just the thermostat, there is really zero reason to pull the rad. Just drain down the coolant some, take the hose off, unscrew one nut and two bolts, and remove the cover and thermostat.

4. My favorite TB DIY:

http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/general-tech/325-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html

Will Definitely use that DIY that you sent me. I also have Toyota Maintenance: 3.4L V6 Timing Belt Replacement to look at that AntiVenom sent me..

My 4runner is at 142k miles now. I was in the process of doing water pump and TB myself when my father called and said he would give me his 2003 4runner and take mine to sell privately or trade in.

I already purchased a kit to DIY and decided I would just return it. However, I I now proceed to swap out the TB and Water Pump. It will be a good investment for the future owner and the car.

But now after I just fixed my pink milkshake with a new radiator, I didnt flush the engine lines out good enough so I have to drain it and flush it again.

I think I am just going to flush out the engine and fill radiator and coolant reservoir with water and let it run and drain and cont. this process. After the lines are all drained out I will take it out again and proceed to replace TB and Water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, wires.

Im at 142k miles and only kept up with oil changes/air filters and rear diff fluid. So far I flushed the trans fluid and am waiting to change out the filter of transmission until I drive it another 200 miles.

I appreciate that DIY guide Durk. I will be using that.

Let me know if I should be advised of doing anything else.

 

[eatmorechickenx]

Toyota Maintenance: 3.4L V6 Timing Belt Replacement

Great FAQ

changing just the timing belt is one of those tasks that can either be easy peasy, if you have all the tools, or a 2 day PITA if you don't and have to fab your own.
in addition, there are a lot of components that you could also change while you are down there. timing belt bearings, tensioner, cam and front crank seal. and things that you'd be silly not to change (depending on age); belts; thermostat, water pump, etc.

edit: one of the must have tools is something that will hold the crank pulley for loosening and tightening. there are several home brew solutions, and there is also a very expensive specialty service tool (SST). i went with a lesser expensive SST ~$70 that was meant for holding the cam sprocket. other advantage is, it works for the cam sprocket removal too

it's held up for 3 timing belt jobs so far. the only catch is you have to fab some bolts to fit in to the crankpulley holes (10mm bolts, fine pitch, with the threads ground off, and nuts to match). here are some photos. PM me if you have any questions.

if you decide to change the front seals, and dont have a seal removal tool, lmk, i have a trick that involves a wood screw and a hammer that works flawlessly.

My go-to for crank pulleys is to set a piece of rubber hose on it, wrap the part of a ratchet strap that doesnt have the ratchet on it around it several times, and hook it on the frame, etc. The more torque you put on the bolt, the tighter it grabs. It has never failed and most people have the stuff to do it laying around. Works better then any sst iv ever used for it.

 

[Rock_Rat]

I was in the process of doing water pump and TB myself when my father called and said he would give me his 2003 4runner and take mine to sell privately or trade in.

I already purchased a kit to DIY and decided I would just return it. However, I I now proceed to swap out the TB and Water Pump. It will be a good investment for the future owner and the car

Unless you enjoy doing the TB/WP tensioner, idler, etc...I would just let your dad sell or swap your old one and let the new owner know he needs to have the TB replaced, Negotiate a decent price and give him he kit you purchased.

Invest your time in your new 2003. My .02

 

[Amirocassar]

Here is what I did @ 90K miles. It's a pain to get in there so I did it all while I had the radiator out and grill off:

Oil (Mobil1 5W30 @ 5.2 quarts) Filter (Pure1 PL10241), Timing Belt & Idler Pulleys, Water Pump, Alternator, Radiator Hoses, Oil Cooler Hoses, Thermostat, Transmission Fluid Change, Antifreeze Change, Air, PS and Alternator Drive Belts, Checked Front Brake Pads (Good)

I have a great tool my brother made to hold the crank pulley when removing the bolt. You will NOT get the bolt out of there without a tool. I will be happy to let you use it for free but will require a deposit so I know I'll get it back.

Technically you can get it out without the tool it's just whether or not getting it back in. I used the bump starter method to just make my life easier. As for tightening I think I hit 200ft/lbs and it's about 215. My 2x4 reinforced with duct tape was snapping.