Throttle Body/Intake questions

[4RunninElgin]

Hey guys! I've blazed through several of the posts pertaining to this particular subject however, I have some pretty specific questions. I'm about a level 4-4.5 in the wrenching department, but this is the deepest I've been into this engine.
A little background: 2nd gen., 3.0 or whatever mine is at this point (lotsa upgrades no dyno). Running super rough but, I'm going through the top end(it's about time), cleaning the gunk and replacing vacuum hoses(w/silicone), gaskets, injectors, pigtails, valve covers/gaskets, pcv, timing belt(the whole kit), replacing a few sensors, checking/adjusting valves, etc... So far I've pulled the throttle body and air intake. I'm working my way slowly through it all and cleaning along way.
On to the questions.... I have the FSM so I have plenty of references, however I'm pretty hard on my engine(a reman...yeah shoulda done the swap) and am not trying to go back in to this anytime soon.

1) I see some of y'all are big fans of the black FIPG. Should I use this on all the gaskets during reassembly? I bought a tube of the permatex but it clearly states "not to be used on valve covers etc..) When I got the intake gasket set it came with some however the FSM says nothing about it. (Yeah felpro) When I put the valve cover gaskets on I see the part about the particular spots (think I'll stick to that) but the intake and plenum ones?

2) When I'm putting the threaded vacuum ports back on should I use Teflon tape on them? There's not any now, however the mechanics that put in the new engine were incompetent duba**#% who like to set things up for failure(aka:line their pockets).

3) Getting the gunk out of the egr valve and the rod that's inserted into the manifold..... I'm soaking it in soapy water. Is that ok? I'd think so but better safe than sorry. How bout the reed/pair valve assembly?

4) Cleaning the fuel rails/lines.... Soap/water?

5) Throttle body cleaning: I'm not sure if I should just pull it all apart and soak/scrub it or attack it with cleaner (avoiding the tps of course). Oh yeah, the tps... Any cleaning suggestions for that? Electrical cleaning spray? The young lady at Tha zone said non chlorinated brake cleaner or the later would do b/c it evaporates quickly.

I'm not trying to invest a small fortune in cleaners....Yeah, I'll let it all sit out in the Texas sun and dry throughly
My main goal here is to make her solid again in the vacuum department and even more dependable than she was before she started running rough....

Cheers to ya!

 

[4RunninElgin]

Bump

Bump

 

[bentos1]

Hey guys! I've blazed through several of the posts pertaining to this particular subject however, I have some pretty specific questions. I'm about a level 4-4.5 in the wrenching department, but this is the deepest I've been into this engine.
A little background: 2nd gen., 3.0 or whatever mine is at this point (lotsa upgrades no dyno). Running super rough but, I'm going through the top end(it's about time), cleaning the gunk and replacing vacuum hoses(w/silicone), gaskets, injectors, pigtails, valve covers/gaskets, pcv, timing belt(the whole kit), replacing a few sensors, checking/adjusting valves, etc... So far I've pulled the throttle body and air intake. I'm working my way slowly through it all and cleaning along way.
On to the questions.... I have the FSM so I have plenty of references, however I'm pretty hard on my engine(a reman...yeah shoulda done the swap) and am not trying to go back in to this anytime soon.

1) I see some of y'all are big fans of the black FIPG. Should I use this on all the gaskets during reassembly? I bought a tube of the permatex but it clearly states "not to be used on valve covers etc..) When I got the intake gasket set it came with some however the FSM says nothing about it. (Yeah felpro) When I put the valve cover gaskets on I see the part about the particular spots (think I'll stick to that) but the intake and plenum ones?

1.I think you will only need to use the gasket maker on the half moon seals. The rest of the rubber gasket will seal fine.

2) When I'm putting the threaded vacuum ports back on should I use Teflon tape on them? There's not any now, however the mechanics that put in the new engine were incompetent duba**#% who like to set things up for failure(aka:line their pockets).

2.It Is not a requirement but I cant see it hurting anything. I recently replaced my temp sensor and used teflon tape when I installing the new one.

3) Getting the gunk out of the egr valve and the rod that's inserted into the manifold..... I'm soaking it in soapy water. Is that ok? I'd think so but better safe than sorry. How bout the reed/pair valve assembly?

3.No clue on this. I would think the EGR should be fine with soap/water/brake cleaner. As far as Im aware, its just exhaust gases that pass through there.

4) Cleaning the fuel rails/lines.... Soap/water?

4.I could be wrong but why would these need cleaning? Gasoline is an excellent solvent on its own.

5) Throttle body cleaning: I'm not sure if I should just pull it all apart and soak/scrub it or attack it with cleaner (avoiding the tps of course). Oh yeah, the tps... Any cleaning suggestions for that? Electrical cleaning spray? The young lady at Tha zone said non chlorinated brake cleaner or the later would do b/c it evaporates quickly.

5.Pull it apart or scrub it in place. If this is the 3.4 then some people have had issues with their IAC valve getting clogged afterwards.
There are specific cleaners available for your MAF

You are doing lots of work and replacing many expensive parts. I would be more inclined to replace what is needed instead of throwing parts at the truck. Did you diagnose the reason for the engine running rough? Are you sure it has anyhting to do with the work you are doing? I only ask as it would be a big let down to spend all that time and money to find out later the engine was rough for something completely different.

I hope everything works out and you track down your issues

 

[4RunninElgin]

That'll work!

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback and answers! I had the duh moment about the fuel rails the moment I read your reply..... As far as my diagnosis of the problems causing the issues. Yes, I've done all the tests and research to determine what the issues are along with some of it just needing to be done anyway. I'm dealing with shoddy work from a VERY shady mechanic. I actually had a remanufactured engine sent to him to put in after blowing the h.g. on the old one. I just identified and was able to prove it. That new engine was never installed and the old one was actually replaced with a barely semi decent used engine. 2 years too late to seek restitution . So it's a combination of multiple things causing the issues. While I'm working my way through the top end I'm fixing the problems I run into. It keeps getting worse. At this point I'm just going to work with what I have...
Worst case scenario, I fix it all and it goes haywire! Glad I tracked down another engine that's had a lot of love and at the right price! Maybe I'll take the plunge and just do the 3.4 swap.... I'll do it myself this time though....

 

[bentos1]

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback and answers! I had the duh moment about the fuel rails the moment I read your reply..... As far as my diagnosis of the problems causing the issues. Yes, I've done all the tests and research to determine what the issues are along with some of it just needing to be done anyway. I'm dealing with shoddy work from a VERY shady mechanic. I actually had a remanufactured engine sent to him to put in after blowing the h.g. on the old one. I just identified and was able to prove it. That new engine was never installed and the old one was actually replaced with a barely semi decent used engine. 2 years too late to seek restitution . So it's a combination of multiple things causing the issues. While I'm working my way through the top end I'm fixing the problems I run into. It keeps getting worse. At this point I'm just going to work with what I have...
Worst case scenario, I fix it all and it goes haywire! Glad I tracked down another engine that's had a lot of love and at the right price! Maybe I'll take the plunge and just do the 3.4 swap.... I'll do it myself this time though....

Sorry to hear about your situation, its a terrible place for anybody to be in. Good luck with getting your engine woes resolved

 

[SpidermanGeek]

A little background: 2nd gen., 3.0 or whatever mine is at this point....

I realize that your questions are fairly generic, so mechanical expertise still apply to them, but I just want to point this out in case some members here might start answering in specifics. Since 3rd gens didn't come with the 3.0L (Unless we're talking about the Turbo Diesel), it could lead to some confusion.

Sorry, I have nothing else to add to this thread as I don't have the experience required to properly answer your technical enquiries. Carry on.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Hey guys! I've blazed through several of the posts pertaining to this particular subject however, I have some pretty specific questions. I'm about a level 4-4.5 in the wrenching department, but this is the deepest I've been into this engine.
A little background: 2nd gen., 3.0 or whatever mine is at this point (lotsa upgrades no dyno). Running super rough but, I'm going through the top end(it's about time), cleaning the gunk and replacing vacuum hoses(w/silicone), gaskets, injectors, pigtails, valve covers/gaskets, pcv, timing belt(the whole kit), replacing a few sensors, checking/adjusting valves, etc... So far I've pulled the throttle body and air intake. I'm working my way slowly through it all and cleaning along way.
On to the questions.... I have the FSM so I have plenty of references, however I'm pretty hard on my engine(a reman...yeah shoulda done the swap) and am not trying to go back in to this anytime soon.

1) I see some of y'all are big fans of the black FIPG. Should I use this on all the gaskets during reassembly? I bought a tube of the permatex but it clearly states "not to be used on valve covers etc..) When I got the intake gasket set it came with some however the FSM says nothing about it. (Yeah felpro�&#56853 When I put the valve cover gaskets on I see the part about the particular spots (think I'll stick to that) but the intake and plenum ones?

2) When I'm putting the threaded vacuum ports back on should I use Teflon tape on them? There's not any now, however the mechanics that put in the new engine were incompetent duba**#% who like to set things up for failure(aka:line their pockets).

3) Getting the gunk out of the egr valve and the rod that's inserted into the manifold..... I'm soaking it in soapy water. Is that ok? I'd think so but better safe than sorry. How bout the reed/pair valve assembly?

4) Cleaning the fuel rails/lines.... Soap/water?

5) Throttle body cleaning: I'm not sure if I should just pull it all apart and soak/scrub it or attack it with cleaner (avoiding the tps of course). Oh yeah, the tps... Any cleaning suggestions for that? Electrical cleaning spray? The young lady at Tha zone said non chlorinated brake cleaner or the later would do b/c it evaporates quickly.

I'm not trying to invest a small fortune in cleaners....Yeah, I'll let it all sit out in the Texas sun and dry throughly
My main goal here is to make her solid again in the vacuum department and even more dependable than she was before she started running rough....

Cheers to ya!

Yeah this should be in the Classic T4R section but a lot of us have owned the 3.0L so we can still help.

1) FIPG is great when to use as directed (you will need it on the cylinder heads before putting on the gaskets, see the FSM or repair manual on where to put it) but it not needed on parts sealing air, only oil. I did that the first time a long time ago and then was upset when I had to scrape it all off when I removed the parts again a few years later. Save it for when directed.

2) Threaded vacuum ports? Are those stock? As long as the hose is snug then I don't worry about it.

3) The EGR gets gunked up real bad, mine was almost closed shut after 250k+ miles. You want to be careful not to shove the gunk back in there but at the same time, I would not use water because it does not like to evaporate if it gets up in places it shouldn't be. Carb or brake cleaner is cheap and will work well here as long as you can drain it out.

4) See above, water is not good to use here.

5) See above again, the parts lady is right. You want stuff that cleans quickly and dries even quicker. Makes cleanup easy. A can of carb cleaner and a shop rag will knock this out quick. DON'T TOUCH THE TPS! If you so much as loosen 1 screw you have to adjust it all over again which is an annoying process involving a multimeter and rotating it milimeters at a time, while the engine is running. It's a pain.

6) I'm adding this one, but be ready to do a valve adjustment. I can promise you that they are out of spec, it's very common on the 3.0L. However, the process is slow and tedious and will require you to special order the exact sizing you will need. There were some great threads on Yotatech I used when I did this back in the day. After doing it, it was like I got a whole new engine it ran so much smoother. You'll NEED this tool (not optional) or something just like it: https://www.amazon.com/Zdmak-Valve-...=1474301880&sr=8-4&keywords=toyota+valve+tool.

 

[4RunninElgin]

Thanks!

Yeah this should be in the Classic T4R section but a lot of us have owned the 3.0L so we can still help.

1) FIPG is great when to use as directed (you will need it on the cylinder heads before putting on the gaskets, see the FSM or repair manual on where to put it) but it not needed on parts sealing air, only oil. I did that the first time a long time ago and then was upset when I had to scrape it all off when I removed the parts again a few years later. Save it for when directed.

2) Threaded vacuum ports? Are those stock? As long as the hose is snug then I don't worry about it.

3) The EGR gets gunked up real bad, mine was almost closed shut after 250k+ miles. You want to be careful not to shove the gunk back in there but at the same time, I would not use water because it does not like to evaporate if it gets up in places it shouldn't be. Carb or brake cleaner is cheap and will work well here as long as you can drain it out.

4) See above, water is not good to use here.

5) See above again, the parts lady is right. You want stuff that cleans quickly and dries even quicker. Makes cleanup easy. A can of carb cleaner and a shop rag will knock this out quick. DON'T TOUCH THE TPS! If you so much as loosen 1 screw you have to adjust it all over again which is an annoying process involving a multimeter and rotating it milimeters at a time, while the engine is running. It's a pain.

6) I'm adding this one, but be ready to do a valve adjustment. I can promise you that they are out of spec, it's very common on the 3.0L. However, the process is slow and tedious and will require you to special order the exact sizing you will need. There were some great threads on Yotatech I used when I did this back in the day. After doing it, it was like I got a whole new engine it ran so much smoother. You'll NEED this tool (not optional) or something just like it: https://www.amazon.com/Zdmak-Valve-...=1474301880&sr=8-4&keywords=toyota+valve+tool.

That answered all of my questions!

I thought I had posted this in the classic section.... Still learning my way around...
After 2 days of soaking most of it(minus the throttle body) in soap/water, the gunk didn't want to budge.... I had already picked up a bottle brush and some throttle body cleaner just in case.... I also remembered that I had a few gallons of thinner so that came in major handy for the larger items.... Worked like a charm! I plugged up the head chambers with some clean towels and went after all the gasket gunk with a wire wheel along with the other flat faced surfaces that'll have gaskets.... Followed by a good air blasting and some rubbing alcohol to get the oil residue.....All nice and clean!
The threaded connector barbs located around the egr/cold start injector look pretty factory to me...
I've decided to forgo the Teflon tape. I think the fine threads and tapered threaded barbs will seal up just fine...
I was planning to do a valve adjustment and have already gotten the S.uper S.tupid T.ools(I.e. The micrometer and the valve tool you mentioned(thanks!)... Just haven't gotten that far yet...
I'm in a holding pattern waiting for the knock sensor & pigtail....got plenty of other things to do in the meantime!
Which brings me to the next fix-a-f@*#-up..... The knock sensor was relocated to the front engine hook(hope nothing is damaged piston/valve wise:compression good). When this was done, they chopped the wire(the shielded coax one) along with the connector at the harness and somehow spliced the connection to lengthen it. Not cool! I'm trying to figure out a way to fix this.... If I can't come up with a good solution I'll probably try to salvage one at the local pick n pull but I know how fragile they can be after 20+ years.... So I may try to make my own...Any guidance here? Betcha I'll find it somewhere in here..
I'll probably be doing the same with the injector wires since I got some new pigtails and injectors....Im planning on beefing up the wires and shielding them with split wrap and aluminum heat tape....overkill? Maybe, but hey, what's wrong with a little over engineering and precaution?
F.F.R.: When you get the cups for the injectors, don't forget the o-rings! The stealership wants $3/cup & $6/gasket....Can't believe they wanted $14ea for the 8 fuel rail spacers....

 

[gamefreakgc]

That answered all of my questions!

I thought I had posted this in the classic section.... Still learning my way around...
After 2 days of soaking most of it(minus the throttle body) in soap/water, the gunk didn't want to budge.... I had already picked up a bottle brush and some throttle body cleaner just in case.... I also remembered that I had a few gallons of thinner so that came in major handy for the larger items.... Worked like a charm! I plugged up the head chambers with some clean towels and went after all the gasket gunk with a wire wheel along with the other flat faced surfaces that'll have gaskets.... Followed by a good air blasting and some rubbing alcohol to get the oil residue.....All nice and clean!
The threaded connector barbs located around the egr/cold start injector look pretty factory to me...
I've decided to forgo the Teflon tape. I think the fine threads and tapered threaded barbs will seal up just fine...
I was planning to do a valve adjustment and have already gotten the S.uper S.tupid T.ools(I.e. The micrometer and the valve tool you mentioned(thanks!)... Just haven't gotten that far yet...
I'm in a holding pattern waiting for the knock sensor & pigtail....got plenty of other things to do in the meantime!
Which brings me to the next fix-a-f@*#-up..... The knock sensor was relocated to the front engine hook(hope nothing is damaged piston/valve wise:compression good). When this was done, they chopped the wire(the shielded coax one) along with the connector at the harness and somehow spliced the connection to lengthen it. Not cool! I'm trying to figure out a way to fix this.... If I can't come up with a good solution I'll probably try to salvage one at the local pick n pull but I know how fragile they can be after 20+ years.... So I may try to make my own...Any guidance here? Betcha I'll find it somewhere in here..
I'll probably be doing the same with the injector wires since I got some new pigtails and injectors....Im planning on beefing up the wires and shielding them with split wrap and aluminum heat tape....overkill? Maybe, but hey, what's wrong with a little over engineering and precaution?
F.F.R.: When you get the cups for the injectors, don't forget the o-rings! The stealership wants $3/cup & $6/gasket....Can't believe they wanted $14ea for the 8 fuel rail spacers....

The best way I can think on on how to fix that wire would be to get another pigtail in good shape, solder it (no butt connectors or quick connects) to the factory wire and then put some heat shrink tubing over it. Anything else will not last long because of the intense heat in that location.

 

[4RunninElgin]

I found a few videos and some procedures to remedy the situation. RG58 Coax is the answer. Found it at the Fry's Electronics(super RadioShack) The external shielding is the ground and the internal braid is to the ecu....I also picked up the new sensor pigtail with the female side from the stealership and found the male side at the junkyard.so now all that's left is building the darn thing. I have to make another trip to find the connectors to replace the ones in the plug and if I decide to go all the way to the ecu those too..... Making videos and taking notes!