Timing Belt Conundrum

Ser1clymb

New member
I figured with everything going on and since I'm working from home now would be a great time to do some maintenance and change my timing belt, WP, etc.
I followed Tim's instruction video (Thank you very much) and it went surprisingly well, other than the tensioner bolts being rounded and having to take the whole A/C compressor off to get to them.
Once back together, I went to start it and it cranked up and then immediately died. I tried giving it some gas, and still only ran for a few seconds and died. Waited a day, came back and same results.
*Full disclosure, I made the mistake of trying to change other stuff while I had it all apart. I cleaned the throttle body, changed IAC valve and gasket (reverted back to old IAC, and changed coolant temp sensor.

I stripped it down to check timing again and everything still lines up.
I did a little cleaning while in there with some compressed and paper towels but only sprayed throttle body with any cleaner.

I would really appreciate any input and things to check or test and see what I could have screwed up. I've read through other threads and checked all connections to make sure they're in-tact, but can't find anything wrong.

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Check the big 3: Fuel, air, spark.

Did you disable the fuel pump during the procedures?

Spark is easy enough to check.

I suspect something not put back together correctly with the TB.
 
Check the big 3: Fuel, air, spark.

Did you disable the fuel pump during the procedures?

Spark is easy enough to check.

I suspect something not put back together correctly with the TB.


Thanks for the quick reply. I have those since it is starting and running, just not well. I wonder if I could have screwed something up when I took the throttle body off and cleaned it, but I think it would have dried out and would run by now.
Could the mixture be out of whack? When I tried running it, and repeatedly cranking it, it smelled strongly of gas afterwards.
 
Did you remember to reconnect the cam position sensor?

Did you double check all vacuum lines are properly connected?

Why did you replace the IAC and then go back to the old one?
 
Double check your cam, crank and maf sensors conections. Make sure they are secure and tight when trying to start the engine.
 
Did you remember to reconnect the cam position sensor?

Did you double check all vacuum lines are properly connected?

Why did you replace the IAC and then go back to the old one?


Yes I checked the cam and crank sensors to make sure they were plugged in good and tight. Could coolant spilling on the crank sensor plug cause it to short? When I replaced the thermostat some coolant poured out onto the plug.

I reviewed my vacuum diagram before starting it to make sure all the hoses were on.

I had a high idle thing going on and bought a remaned IAC off ebay to try and fix it. When I plugged it in the connection wasn't great, and the lack of any part number made me think I got cheated, so I immediately put the old IAC back on. But that was after trying to start it.
 
Double check your cam, crank and maf sensors conections. Make sure they are secure and tight when trying to start the engine.

Thanks. I found that to be a common issue when searching, but I made sure all were plugged in good and tight before starting it.
 
Pull one of the plugs and see if it smells like gas. Sounds as if there is no fire.

Did you change the crank seal?

I did not change the seals. I was going to, but they looked fine and weren't leaking, so I didn't mess with them.

I'll try pulling a plug and see what I find. It does run upon cranking it, but then stalls and dies.
 
If you have fire, plugs aren’t gas wet, and you can manually turn over the engine at the crank and all the marks line up every time, consider that it may be a problem that occurred when you took to cleaning the IAC. Vacuum line not hooked up, ete.
 
The picture you provided were bit unclear did the cam and crankshaft marks line up correctly after hand spinning the cranksaft?:keyboard:
 
Ya the pictures didn't come out great, but yes all the marks lined up when I turned it by hand, and I stripped it all down again after it didn't start and double-checked that the marks still lined up.

And the coolant temp sensor is oem.

I haven't checked the plugs yet, but will shortly. I had to step away and take a break. Decided to install a door. :juggle:
 
If you have fire, plugs aren’t gas wet, and you can manually turn over the engine at the crank and all the marks line up every time, consider that it may be a problem that occurred when you took to cleaning the IAC. Vacuum line not hooked up, ete.

I finally took the time to pull the plugs. I pulled #1 and #5 since they're easy to get to and both did smell like gas. What is the likely culprit and solution? Pardon my ignorance.

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That means that the plug isn’t firing. You have fuel but no spark. I would pull the #2 plug, and ground it just to see if you have spark (you need to have someone crank the engine over but not so that it starts). Also see if it smells like fuel.

Do you remember if you had RPMs on the tach when the engine barely ran?
 
Be sure that the vacuum line and the coolant line didn't get mixed up at the TB connections. They're close enough in size that it can happen. Ask me how I know...:noidea:
 
Be sure that the vacuum line and the coolant line didn't get mixed up at the TB connections. They're close enough in size that it can happen. Ask me how I know...:noidea:

I did check that after some searching and saw that could happen. The lines are hooked up correctly and have been since I put it back together. I totally see how that could happen.


That means that the plug isn’t firing. You have fuel but no spark. I would pull the #2 plug, and ground it just to see if you have spark (you need to have someone crank the engine over but not so that it starts). Also see if it smells like fuel.

Do you remember if you had RPMs on the tach when the engine barely ran?

Thanks. I'll try and get some plugs and confirm the wiring. Could that have trashed the coil packs with the spark plugs?

Yes, the engine would start with normal range of RPMs, and then it would start to rev up the RPMs to keep running and as soon as the RPMs started going up it would die.
 

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