I just finished this job. I concur you do not have to remove the brake lines nor the J bracket but I did remove the J bracket top bolt for reinstall just to get a little more room. Only thing I didn't do is set the free play. I don't really want to take it all back out and I don't have the special tool. Comments on free play anybody? The setting to zero is clearly at the junction between master and the booster, not the adjustment at the pedal.
Tips on power brake booster install!
- Thread starter 4Runner4TW
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AntleredRuin
New member
Correct, no need to remove the Master Cylinder.
I had an ordeal a few months back where I had to remove it a few different times. (It went bad, and the replacement one was bad also, etc).
Just move the Master Cylinder forward a few centimeters; the hard lines have some flex in them.
Bare minimal tools. The last time took all of 20 minutes too; the few few times I was being careful and slow.
To adjust between the Master Cylinder and booster, you can simply pull the master cylinder back off the nipple and use a small socket (I don't know the metric size; I have a 1/4" drive small socket set for work and just went down the list till one fit) and some small (preferably right angle) needle nose pliers. The pliers grip the base and the socket threads in or out. Just a few turns.
You don't have to remove the entire thing to do it. I actually did this part in a gas station parking lot on the way to work the morning after the full booster replacement. Took maybe 5 minutes.
I had an ordeal a few months back where I had to remove it a few different times. (It went bad, and the replacement one was bad also, etc).
Just move the Master Cylinder forward a few centimeters; the hard lines have some flex in them.
Bare minimal tools. The last time took all of 20 minutes too; the few few times I was being careful and slow.
Double check the pedal first, just in case. You may need to adjust the shackle forward a few threads.
To adjust between the Master Cylinder and booster, you can simply pull the master cylinder back off the nipple and use a small socket (I don't know the metric size; I have a 1/4" drive small socket set for work and just went down the list till one fit) and some small (preferably right angle) needle nose pliers. The pliers grip the base and the socket threads in or out. Just a few turns.
You don't have to remove the entire thing to do it. I actually did this part in a gas station parking lot on the way to work the morning after the full booster replacement. Took maybe 5 minutes.
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20 Minutes?? I need to do mine ASAP but I'm still not sure of all the steps. Can you provide a little more detail about what all you did?
I was going to work on it today but it was 110+ degrees and I didn't even want to think about working in my garage.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
The steps are in this thread. It's easy once you start doing it. You basically unbolt the MC and pull it forward with the hardlines connected, then unbolt the booster from the inside and wiggle it out. The hardest part is accessing the booster bolt at 1:00 behind the brake pedal bracket.
The critical part is setting the plunger depth, which I found easier to do off the vehicle using the old booster as a guide.
I've only done this on my '99, can't speak to other years, but they look similar.
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AntleredRuin
New member
I think the 01 and 02 are different. A hydraulic booster or something
octanejunkie
Elite Member
The master cylinder is completely different on 01 and '02, I believe the vacuum booster is the same from 96 to 01. The booster changed in 2002 and again in 2005.
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AntleredRuin
New member
Ah there you go. I knew it was something.
