To Body Lift 1" or To Not Body Lift 1"

[City_Rider]

That is my question.

Below is my rig - I'd like to go LT in the front along with clearing 35's for my next set of rubber.

Should I get a body lift? I never really considered a body lift, but sticking with 1" shouldn't throw the body lines too out of whack.

Obviously, she's armoured up already so I can't modify that.

Opinions are appreciated!

 

[Rc4r]

For 35s is go 1.5" bl

 

[4-Ripcord]

There will be a gap on both bumpers and the sliders. But if you either fix that or deal with it, then go ahead. I vote no though.


Now why are you getting LT? Seems you would benefit more from a SAS or something for that kind of money.

 

[blcktpgsr]

I don't think you really have much choice except to put atleast an inch or so of BL if you have future plans for 35's. Aren't you rubbing at all with your current lift and tire set up?

 

[Edubsam]

I am wondering why you want the LT as well. Yeah, they are badass, but the rest of your setup doesn't really lend itself to it. Heavy armor and such. How much of a suspension lift do you have? Have you thought about a SAS and a bigger suspension lift? The BL will look stupid with all the gaps too.

 

[City_Rider]

There will be a gap on both bumpers and the sliders. But if you either fix that or deal with it, then go ahead. I vote no though.


Now why are you getting LT? Seems you would benefit more from a SAS or something for that kind of money.

Yea, I'd deal with it. Just don't want it looking out of place (ALL of my armour/body lines are tight, under a finger width. My sliders would probably appreciate the extra clearance...)

The reason for LT is well, I dig LT. I want a expo capable rig that I can reliably run to and from the ski hills, mountains etc and still be able to rip at 50mph on washboard gravel roads. I've already got the shocks for it, just need the upper and lower control arms!

I'm not looking for the flex benefits of the SAS - when it comes time for me to build a insane rock crawler, well a SFA is the only way to go.

 

[City_Rider]

I don't think you really have much choice except to put atleast an inch or so of BL if you have future plans for 35's. Aren't you rubbing at all with your current lift and tire set up?

Scrubs a bit in the front, but that's to be expected. I haven't done any mods to the body mounts, just rolled the caster forward 0.5°. Does not rub in the back (as per picture above)

I am wondering why you want the LT as well. Yeah, they are badass, but the rest of your setup doesn't really lend itself to it. Heavy armor and such. How much of a suspension lift do you have? Have you thought about a SAS and a bigger suspension lift? The BL will look stupid with all the gaps too.

My set up (armour wise) is for bambi bouncing (front) and the rear, well it's just ballin. At the moment the suspension is lifted probably 4-5" in the back along with 3" in the front. Can't go any bigger in the back without custom springs (as I have the 9.25 wrap LC coils already) and the front is limited by CV angle and control arm articulation.

 

[City_Rider]

Who has a armoured up 'Runner with a small body lift? Does steeze?

I'm going to try and hunt down a reference picture...

I have no problems cutting this beast up to clear the 35's - I don't really want to run front fiberglass as I freaking love cut fenders and, as mentioned, don't mind cutting this one up.

 

[Pikeman]

OK I am one of the biggest advocaters against body lifts. I have had my 4Runner for 3 years now and decided that I have to get the 1" BL to clear my tires better. It is really only in the past year that I have been wheeling a lot harder that I started rubbing my 285's consistently. If your plan is to run 35's then you will need the 1.5" and some minor trimming or 1" but plan on lots of metal trimming to clearance for them. Take a look at Sonoran Steel website. He has a pretty good write-up on what is needed to clear 35's on our vehicles.

 

[blcktpgsr]

Who has a armoured up 'Runner with a small body lift? Does steeze?

I'm going to try and hunt down a reference picture...

I have no problems cutting this beast up to clear the 35's - I don't really want to run front fiberglass as I freaking love cut fenders and, as mentioned, don't mind cutting this one up.

look up Brian2sun's rig for reference. he currently has 1" BL.

 

[City_Rider]

look up Brian2sun's rig for reference. he currently has 1" BL.

Cool - will do.

steezemcqueen is running a 2" BL - might be a bit much for me.

 

[GX4SEVEND]

I run 35's with no body lift just fine but dont wheel as hard as you guys. There really isn't as much trimming as everyone seems to think.

 

[City_Rider]

I run 35's with no body lift just fine but dont wheel as hard as you guys. There really isn't as much trimming as everyone seems to think.

Yea... I think I may have more wheel articulation in the front (which is my main area of concern).

Do you run wheel spacers? How is the clearance on the UCA?

 

[GX4SEVEND]

yeah i've got the spidertrax. Almost one finger of space between tire and UCA

 

[City_Rider]

So... I went with a 1" BL from Toytec, I was picking up the steering rack bushing replacement kit anyways, so figured I would give it a try.

It would appear that a 1" body lift helps out significantly when stuffing 35's (without full tubing of the front) but I'm pretty picky when it comes to the body lines of my vehicles so I am still on the fence whether or not it will look good enough to stay on. Only time will tell!

Good news is that I am heading back from work and will be picking up some gear at the border on Friday - looking forward to adding a few more mini mods!

 

[brian2sun]

So... I went with a 1" BL from Toytec, I was picking up the steering rack bushing replacement kit anyways, so figured I would give it a try.

It would appear that a 1" body lift helps out significantly when stuffing 35's (without full tubing of the front) but I'm pretty picky when it comes to the body lines of my vehicles so I am still on the fence whether or not it will look good enough to stay on. Only time will tell!

Good news is that I am heading back from work and will be picking up some gear at the border on Friday - looking forward to adding a few more mini mods!

Seeing as though your bumpers are already made for no body lift, I would keep it off and go for a full tub if I were you rather than have gaps. You truck is clean and I agree about it not looking as good.

I clearanced my front already for when I was running 305/70/16s without a body lift so I shouldn't have to pound too much more to fit 35s with my body lift. I know it's doable to run 35s and a 1" BL without tubbing because I've seen it done in person. It just takes removing the electronics behind the kick panels, pounding the firewall area in with a BFH and putting the wiring back in place afterwards.

I got the CBI after the BL so it was made for it. I ended up adapting my ARB by drilling new holes. I'm not sure if you can do that with the Shockworks, but maybe.? Even if you can though, I think trying to get rid of the gap you'll have with the CBI or living with it are both worse options than just tubbing the thing and leaving the BL off.

You will probably need to cut the front of the CBI to run 35s with or without the body lift (where the back of the rear tires make contact). I know I will have to soon when my tires get here. Or you can put in some bigger bump stops, but it will limit your travel. I have a couple more inches of droop in the rear because I'm running home made links with heim joints, but even with stock arms, I think 35s will rub the CBI.

You may have to trim the rear fenders a little too if you don't put the BL on. You'll be ok with it. Either way it will be a fair amount of work, but I personally wouldn't dig the bumper gaps.

 

[City_Rider]

Seeing as though your bumpers are already made for no body lift, I would keep it off and go for a full tub if I were you rather than have gaps. You truck is clean and I agree about it not looking as good.

I clearanced my front already for when I was running 305/70/16s without a body lift so I shouldn't have to pound too much more to fit 35s with my body lift. I know it's doable to run 35s and a 1" BL without tubbing because I've seen it done in person. It just takes removing the electronics behind the kick panels, pounding the firewall area in with a BFH and putting the wiring back in place afterwards.

I got the CBI after the BL so it was made for it. I ended up adapting my ARB by drilling new holes. I'm not sure if you can do that with the Shockworks, but maybe.? Even if you can though, I think trying to get rid of the gap you'll have with the CBI or living with it are both worse options than just tubbing the thing and leaving the BL off.

You will probably need to cut the front of the CBI to run 35s with or without the body lift (where the back of the rear tires make contact). I know I will have to soon when my tires get here. Or you can put in some bigger bump stops, but it will limit your travel. I have a couple more inches of droop in the rear because I'm running home made links with heim joints, but even with stock arms, I think 35s will rub the CBI.

You may have to trim the rear fenders a little too if you don't put the BL on. You'll be ok with it. Either way it will be a fair amount of work, but I personally wouldn't dig the bumper gaps.

Honest opinion appreciated!

I was thinking that it would be easier to clear 35's with a 1" BL while not throwing the lines off too much... We shall see.

You're probably right - I'll end up doing it 'the hard way' with no body lift, just to make things look 'right'. Considering it isn't my DD, well, perhaps it gives me a project over winter.

I need to find a ramp to flex it out on (completely) to see where the rears are in relation to the CBI rear bumper.