Too many changes, now I have problems

[octanejunkie]

Well, I broke my own rule and did too much in a short amount of time and now I've got a few issues and too many places to look

Last weekend
1) switched to 5W30 Synthetic and WIX Synthetic Filter
-drove about 200 miles since

This weekend
2) transmission drain and fill
-2 quarts out, 2 quarts of SuperTech in
-level looks high on dip stick when hot

3) Installed Aussie Locker
-not an issue but now I'm super sensitive to "changes" and sensations
-battery was disconnected for a few hours (reset EFI fuel tables)

Issues as of this morning
a) car stalled in gear at a traffic light (AC not on)
-had driven 5 miles, coolant was at temp, trans temp on the low side
-it shuddered twice over the weekend (at a traffic light in gear) but didn't stall
-park RPM is in the mid 700s

b) power steering shudders/shimmys when turning (no changes were made)
-fluid level seems fine, fluid is old
-belt/tension seems fine, belt is a year old

c) transmission clunks when dropped into gear (kinda hard)
-shifting between N and R or N and D will clunk
-while driving there is a discernable but softer clunk as the trans shifts
-fluid level on dip stick looks high

My thoughts

• the trans was behaving fine before the drain and fill and messing with it was a mistake - but something had to happen eventually (fluid change, flush, trans service, etc - it's a 255K miles trans) and it was only 2 qts
  
• is the synthetic 5W30 too thin? Even though it's a high mileage formulation it's different than the dino oil I had been running
  
• power steering issues are coincidental or the engine oil thing is contributing to performance somehow

Looking for input, and TBH the transmission clunking concerns me the most at this point

Haha, the fun never starts, I mean ends :toilet:

 

[FrenchToasty]

I was reading on your other thread about tranny drain and fill vs....
Didn't Timmy say that he does the drain and fill, usually 3+ quarts came out and refilled that amount. I wonder why you only got 2 out but still showing high on the stick. I got 3.5qts out of my pan on sunday(5th gen)

 

[99problems]

How dirty was the ATF fluid that you drained from the system?

 

[thegipper]

Not sure about it stalling, could be totally random and never happen again. I would see if it comes back or not.

Clunking in the tranny when shifting from park might be as simple as the driveshaft slip yokes binding. You did say it is clunking when shifting between gears which is weird.

I would get the tranny temp up to operating temp (158-173, don't quote me on that) and properly check fluid level. If it is high, drain it until it is spot on.

I would have someone shift between P and D/R while you are under there looking for the clunk. Obviously use someone you trust with the parking brake set and wheels chocked.

Keep us posted.

PS. I always get at least 4 quarts out when I do a drain/fill.

 

[mtbtim]

I was reading on your other thread about tranny drain and fill vs....
Didn't Timmy say that he does the drain and fill, usually 3+ quarts came out and refilled that amount. I wonder why you only got 2 out but still showing high on the stick. I got 3.5qts out of my pan on sunday(5th gen)

When I do a drain and refill, I usually get 4-4.5 quarts out. Only 2 quarts coming out is pretty odd.

 

[octanejunkie]

[MENTION=139892]FrenchToasty[/MENTION]
[MENTION=85040]99problems[/MENTION]
[MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION]
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]

Thanks for all the replies, guys, but keep in mind I am in a 2WD with an A340E trans and have a smaller trans pan and total fluid capacity than the 4WD A340F

 

[octanejunkie]

How dirty was the ATF fluid that you drained from the system?

Pretty dang dirty

 

[pauldub]

Since you disconnected the batt, it may take a few drive cycles for the ECU to relearn and control the idle correctly.

 

[dozerfrelich]

Have you checked the drive shaft? Maybe the locker put enough stress on it to push a warn out part over the edge. Try rocking the truck front to back and see if it makes the sound


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ruiner]

When I do a drain and refill, I usually get 4-4.5 quarts out. Only 2 quarts coming out is pretty odd.

he could be on an incline or something

 

[octanejunkie]

he could be on an incline or something

I was on level ground when I drained and filled, and every time I've checked the level

 

[4Reak Show]

Stalling or near stalls is likely from battery disconnect and idle relearning. I would clean IAC passages real good. See it a lot on 4th gens with fly-by-wire v8's: replacing battery warrants a start-and-stall until throttle plate is cleaned.

The ATF thing is also common. When the fluid gets past due, it itself is holding a lot of the friction material from the clutches and such as normal wear erodes them. Then, when you drain some out, you have less "floating friction" in the system. Combine that with the notion that new fluid has very strong detergent properties and it will clean out varnished pieces and perhaps even dislodge little bits of gunk from inside. I've seen it quite a few times where a customer wants a full flush, and had never had one in 150-200k. Old fluid looks like coffee. Now with the new red fluid it starts to act funny. I would just keep an eye on it and beware that even automatic transmissions have an overall service life when neglected.

Hope you figure something out. I hate doin projects like that where you think you're doing good and then 3 more things pop up. Very frustrating.

 

[octanejunkie]

Have you checked the drive shaft? Maybe the locker put enough stress on it to push a warn out part over the edge. Try rocking the truck front to back and see if it makes the sound

Good points, I've sent an email to Torq Masters support

Rocking the truck forward and back in park, all I hear is the fuel in the tank sloshing about and perhaps some faint clunking probably against the park pawls

 

[phattyduck]

If the trans does go bad... I still have my old 2WD trans sitting in the garage. So, you got that going for you. :bounce:

The short drain and refill is due to the smaller 2WD pan, as you mentioned.

I would clean the throttle body, IAC, etc. for the stalling and get the level in the trans correct. Do another drain and refill, but on the refill add one quart, then check the levels and adjust as if you have no idea how much you just drained...

edit: And you need to do some smokey burnouts to get the diff broken in.

-Charlie

 

[octanejunkie]

Stalling or near stalls is likely from battery disconnect and idle relearning. I would clean IAC passages real good. See it a lot on 4th gens with fly-by-wire v8's: replacing battery warrants a start-and-stall until throttle plate is cleaned.

The ATF thing is also common. When the fluid gets past due, it itself is holding a lot of the friction material from the clutches and such as normal wear erodes them. Then, when you drain some out, you have less "floating friction" in the system. Combine that with the notion that new fluid has very strong detergent properties and it will clean out varnished pieces and perhaps even dislodge little bits of gunk from inside. I've seen it quite a few times where a customer wants a full flush, and had never had one in 150-200k. Old fluid looks like coffee. Now with the new red fluid it starts to act funny. I would just keep an eye on it and beware that even automatic transmissions have an overall service life when neglected.

Hope you figure something out. I hate doin projects like that where you think you're doing good and then 3 more things pop up. Very frustrating.

You warned me about this in another thread, I've not forgotten, and yes I agree - on all points, just frustrating and a little scary to do bad when attempting to do good

I've got some friction additive coming today and I'll do another drain and fill, adding one once of additive for each qt of fluid I've replaced to fight the thinning factor

Regarding the stalling thing, I've reset the fuel system with long battery disconnects before but never, NEVER, experienced any stalling on relearn. The only thing different this time is I've been babying it since installing the locker, so my driving habits have been different.

Now how about that power steering shudder? :wow:

 

[octanejunkie]

If the trans does go bad... I still have my old 2WD trans sitting in the garage. So, you got that going for you. :bounce:

The short drain and refill is due to the smaller 2WD pan, as you mentioned.

I would clean the throttle body, IAC, etc. for the stalling and get the level in the trans correct. Do another drain and refill, but on the refill add one quart, then check the levels and adjust as if you have no idea how much you just drained...

edit: And you need to do some smokey burnouts to get the diff broken in.

-Charlie

Yup yup

TB and IAC are clean. I did that like 40K miles ago

Good idea on the drain and short fill and adjust. As I mentioned above I'm gonna throw some friction additive into the mix :nono: so replace the friction elements in suspension removed by the drain.

I really appreciate the offer, and HOPE LIKE HELL NOT TO TAKE YOU UP ON IT, but I might LOL

 

[RonJR]

Re: the clunk. Be aware that the Aussie locker has a lot more backlash and free play than the standard open diff. The backlash on an open diff is set mostly by the ring-pinion backlash, which amounts to about .5 degree at the drive shaft. The Aussie locker has 5-10 degrees of free play (backlash) at the drive shaft. That's inherent in the ratcheting mechanism, and just something you'll have to get used to.

Set the e-brake, chock the wheels, and put the transmission in neutral (not park). Then crawl under the vehicle and try to rotate the rear drive shaft. You'll see what I mean.

 

[whyzee125]

I've had 8 4runners now and one of mine will do that if the battery's disconnected. I had it out to replace the driver's seat and it ran like CRAP afterwards. Idled super low, long cranks, and would stall out when reversing. Cleared up in a few days. Just for kicks I disconnected the battery and it did it again. RUns great once the ECU relearns it. Have no idea why.

 

[octanejunkie]

Re: the clunk. Be aware that the Aussie locker has a lot more backlash and free play than the standard open diff. The backlash on an open diff is set mostly by the ring-pinion backlash, which amounts to about .5 degree at the drive shaft. The Aussie locker has 5-10 degrees of free play (backlash) at the drive shaft. That's inherent in the ratcheting mechanism, and just something you'll have to get used to.

Set the e-brake, chock the wheels, and put the transmission in neutral (not park). Then crawl under the vehicle and try to rotate the rear drive shaft. You'll see what I mean.

You are correct, and I noted it during my post installation check and I did exactly as you suggested. Part of the post install check is to make the locker lock and unlock manually by spinning the tires same then opposite direction to test it locking and unlocking. With the clearance between the cam gears I got (mid field of the mfgr's range) it was consistently locking and unlocking with ease, so to speak.

My concern is that the clunk seems to be becoming more pronounced whereas after install and the first few drives it was not as noticeable... or maybe I'm gas lighting myself.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I am not sure your tranny is enjoying the locker back there. I installed one years ago in a Chevy 2wd and the 4l80 tranny never liked it but the real culprit turned out to be the U-joints that were on their last leg before the member swap. New U joints and with time the tranny mated with the locker back there so to speak.

But as mentioned somewhere else, try the Castrol Import ATF.