octanejunkie
Elite Member
U-joints were replaced in on Jan 2, 2017 but I'm looking into trans fluids again :hatsoff:
EDIT: is this the fluid you mean?
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Too many changes, now I have problems
- Thread starter octanejunkie
- Start date
U-joints were replaced in on Jan 2, 2017 but I'm looking into trans fluids again :hatsoff:
EDIT: is this the fluid you mean?
4Reak Show
New member
Can you give a more in depth description? For example when idling at a stop the steering wheel bounces? That's how I take the judder description. Generally if steering acts the same BOTH directions it's the pump, whereas in ONE direction it's the gear or rack. PS is tough to diag without a pressure gauge. And those systems are 1000's of psi sometimes.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I emailed Torq Masters with the issue, they replied asking ring and pinion backlash, which I supplied in reply. This was their response:
If that is the sole cause then [MENTION=134884]RonJR[/MENTION] called it, but whether I want to live with it is another matter. Might be worth pulling the third member one more time to tighten up the gear lash and re-pattern the gears
Still gonna show that tranny some love (wow that sounds wrong) and address the friction in suspension gone missing aspect of things
The locker will add backlash to the driveline, and if the ring and pinion backlash was at .010 to 0.011, that's on the high side, the effect can compound. In our vehicles with rear lockers, I get a clunk when shifting from park to drive, it's louder if the driveline is bound up, like if I parked on a hill. At this point however, I don't even notice it. If your locker was installed correctly, and your center gap is within spec, and if you weren't having transmission or transfer case issues prior to installing the locker, I think what you are noticing is the additional backlash from the locker which should have no negative effect on the vehicle.
If that is the sole cause then [MENTION=134884]RonJR[/MENTION] called it, but whether I want to live with it is another matter. Might be worth pulling the third member one more time to tighten up the gear lash and re-pattern the gears
Still gonna show that tranny some love (wow that sounds wrong) and address the friction in suspension gone missing aspect of things
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Well, it is only noticeable when turning, driving straight or idling there is no indication. I noticed it after installing the locker and attributed it to locking the rear end mid-turn, but this morning dropping my daughter at school I rolled into the valet line and as I turned the wheel while coasting I felt what I would describe as a shimmy, like the belt is slipping, or the pump is failing.
4Reak Show
New member
Interesting. Is there any chance you also had the suspension unloaded with locker install from lifting the truck on jack stands or whatever? I ask just thinking maybe a ball joint or tie rod was thinking about goin south and then unloading and reloading it made it more noticeable. That is bizarre at any rate.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Front end was loaded the entire time, only the rear was in the air. LBJs are new. Rest of suspension, however...
I thought I had a problem while braking and pulsing in the steering but I noticed it the other day while not braking - seemed to be exacerbated by road surface. Grooved concrete roadway it seems "worse" than smooth, flat asphalt.
Time to check the rest of the front end, but would it affect the steering that dramatically and at almost no speed?
Man, when it rains it pours
LittleCaesar
New member
Correct listing, wrong pic. Can find it at Autozone for $22 in the gallon jug.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Update: got in the car after it sat for 6 hours, started and shifted into reverse, no clunk. Shifted into drive, no clunk. Drove 18 miles and it clunks again. I suspect fluid temp and viscosity both playing a part here. The hotter the fluid the worse the clunk.
Power steering issue. The fluid is probably old, worn out and the level may be low. That dip cap is ridiculous to read. Might try to top it off a bit. Plain old ATF?
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Power steering issue. The fluid is probably old, worn out and the level may be low. That dip cap is ridiculous to read. Might try to top it off a bit. Plain old ATF?
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thecole1098
New member
Dexron III is what the system calls for but honestly regular PS fluid works just fine. We use PS fluid for everything at our dealer. It's all hydraulic fluid, after all.
theesotericone
New member
From your install thread:
Use that. I'd actually go with 80/140W. It will quite it way down if it's the locker causing the thunk. Which I believe it is.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Yup yup
Going to Reno this weekend, will swap fluid after I get back.
Gonna add some friction modifier to the trans fluid too, I think it's a complicit element to the clunking.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I can't remember the last trans fluid service, but it was never completely flushed. Didn't smell burnt but it was dark.
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jgue467
Senior Member
Man if tranny fluid was "pretty dang dirty" and "dark" I'd be tempted to just flush the whole thing. A complete flush won't damage an otherwise good tranmission and I'd advise against the friction modifier, what's gonna happen is gonna happen.
My engine died in traffic idling in gear once like 5 years ago, never did it again, strange thing. You keep up with IACs and MAFs so all that s/b good along with plugs/wires and ethanol-treated fuel so unless it repeats I'd ignore it.
If the steering pump fluid is nasty, I'd flush it too. I did mine twice several years ago, took care of a very slight only when below 40 degrees squeal.
That's what I'd do. Luck. :cowboy:
My engine died in traffic idling in gear once like 5 years ago, never did it again, strange thing. You keep up with IACs and MAFs so all that s/b good along with plugs/wires and ethanol-treated fuel so unless it repeats I'd ignore it.
If the steering pump fluid is nasty, I'd flush it too. I did mine twice several years ago, took care of a very slight only when below 40 degrees squeal.
That's what I'd do. Luck. :cowboy:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
The crowd seems split between drain and fill vs. flush. Like you said "what's gonna happen is gonna happen" but, for me, the sad reality of that is I may turn a seemingly functional transmission into a markedly dysfunctional transmission - which is not handy.
Regarding the modifier, it's not a long term fix, and it may precipitate a short term repair or rebuild - to which I'd have to say "it is what it is" but in doing some research I found this post which is interesting in the least, although I'm not experiencing the symptom the post addresses.
Although this post perhaps speaks more to my situation regarding a flush.
Noted and likely due to EFI reset and me driving like a nancy boy
Just need to find the time and the space, but yes, this is on the menu. Thanks :cowboy:
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
The day after the fall
Did another drain and fill like [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] recommended, drained out just over 2 quarts and added one quart back. Drove it around to heat it up and checked it again - low.
Long story short, it took another whole quart and 2/3rds more to reach the top hot mark when hot and I used Castrol Transmax Import per [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] that I bought at AutoZone - Walmart was out of it. Checked level again today, mid-day after driving in traffic for an hour, full. Overall, it was behaving well. The hard shifting was likely due to fluid level, but what was weird is the day before it was reading high, like over the full mark. I think the dipstick angle is shallow into the pan and leaving the stick in too long after wiping it gives a false-high reading - just wipe, stab, pull and read.
With the correct fluid level the clunking is greatly reduced, although still present at times (and interestingly at other times not) it's not as bad as it seemed. Just like hand sanitizer, paranoia was a big ingredient in my experience. Not sure if I should delete this thread or my entire account :wow:
[MENTION=134884]RonJR[/MENTION] was right on, part of the clunk is the cumulative lash in the drive traing being taken up by the rotation of the drive shaft when shifting into gear then finally meeting resistance of the locker. Hypoid gears in an open diff just spin and even though the same effect is present, there is no jarring clunk to communicate it back through the drive train to the driver.
The same clunk sensation can be felt while driving, to a lesser extent, when releasing the throttle and getting back on it, the drive train slack will wind till it stops and clunks albeit less noticeable than when in park. To really minimize it while in gear, a very light and slow approach on the pedal is required, stabbing the throttle is gonna make it clunk. This holds true both while rolling and while leaving a stop (truck in gear). Lightly approach the throttle and slowly increase - which coincidentally is also more fuel-efficient than a lead-footed launching stab at the pedal.
In summary, 2/3rds of this thread was self-induced paranoia fueled by something new and different. That does not mean my transmissions is A-OKAY, so I will probably continue with a drain and fill regimen until I experience actual ill effects beyond misreading the dipstick and underfilling the pan.
:ban:
Next on the agenda:
-flush the power steering system
-rear diff fluid to 85-140W
Did another drain and fill like [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] recommended, drained out just over 2 quarts and added one quart back. Drove it around to heat it up and checked it again - low.
Long story short, it took another whole quart and 2/3rds more to reach the top hot mark when hot and I used Castrol Transmax Import per [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] that I bought at AutoZone - Walmart was out of it. Checked level again today, mid-day after driving in traffic for an hour, full. Overall, it was behaving well. The hard shifting was likely due to fluid level, but what was weird is the day before it was reading high, like over the full mark. I think the dipstick angle is shallow into the pan and leaving the stick in too long after wiping it gives a false-high reading - just wipe, stab, pull and read.
With the correct fluid level the clunking is greatly reduced, although still present at times (and interestingly at other times not) it's not as bad as it seemed. Just like hand sanitizer, paranoia was a big ingredient in my experience. Not sure if I should delete this thread or my entire account :wow:
[MENTION=134884]RonJR[/MENTION] was right on, part of the clunk is the cumulative lash in the drive traing being taken up by the rotation of the drive shaft when shifting into gear then finally meeting resistance of the locker. Hypoid gears in an open diff just spin and even though the same effect is present, there is no jarring clunk to communicate it back through the drive train to the driver.
The same clunk sensation can be felt while driving, to a lesser extent, when releasing the throttle and getting back on it, the drive train slack will wind till it stops and clunks albeit less noticeable than when in park. To really minimize it while in gear, a very light and slow approach on the pedal is required, stabbing the throttle is gonna make it clunk. This holds true both while rolling and while leaving a stop (truck in gear). Lightly approach the throttle and slowly increase - which coincidentally is also more fuel-efficient than a lead-footed launching stab at the pedal.
In summary, 2/3rds of this thread was self-induced paranoia fueled by something new and different. That does not mean my transmissions is A-OKAY, so I will probably continue with a drain and fill regimen until I experience actual ill effects beyond misreading the dipstick and underfilling the pan.
:ban:
Next on the agenda:
-flush the power steering system
-rear diff fluid to 85-140W
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
No incidences of stalling since Monday, but it did shudder once slightly yesterday.
I've got a 1,000-mile drive coming up this weekend. Would it be worth resetting the EFI tables just before heading out on the first 475 Mile leg?
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I've got a 1,000-mile drive coming up this weekend. Would it be worth resetting the EFI tables just before heading out on the first 475 Mile leg?
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ZionXIX
New member
Now that I think about it, I did experience something similar but not exact with my drain and fill last year. I have a 2WD and subsequently drain only about 2 quarts out expecting to see 4. The fluid was basically room temperature. I filled it with the castrol transmax about 2 quarts or so and noticed the transmission was slipping in drive going up hills. I dumped another 3/4 to a quart and the problem resolved itself. Its a really bizarre thing and the unusable dipstick doesn't help things at all.
