torque converter repair sleeve warning

[gtgt_bangbang]

damn. Capitol D.

trying to head off any downtime for all eternity I guess, so I decide to put a Torque Converter Repair Sleeve on the shaft, along with a seal R&R when I dump this motor back in. Even though the shaft isnt that bad at all; its just a decade old and sitting awhile.

I got the A340F with the 9.125 bolt dia converter, and the TC's shaft has damn damn damn recesses for a couple pump drive lugs; in other words the shaft isnt a complete and simple cylinder, but more of a Rook-looking thing.

anyway, the damn damn damn shaft saver is tight but in its range, goes on perfect all the way down, feels great, but of course it DRAGS down over the castellations, and prints a very feel-able pattern in the supposed-to-be- dead flat new seal surface.

damn. no way to get it off with out marking the shaft much worse than it ever was before. Build it as is and probably get a fierce leak within months. new TqC time

honestly it didnt even really need it if I wasn't being so frickinargelbargleanal, the seal saver itself is ~$30 while a whole new r/b torque converter that (I didnt need UNTIL NOW THANKS TIMKEN / NATIONAL FOR NOT KNOWING THAT) starts at $100 and goes up fast with haste.

Anyway if you take something enjoyable from my tragedy,

while I remain a big fan of those shaft saver sleeves, DONT use one non cylindrical shaft. ANd probably quit fixing things that aint broke

 

[02SE]

Measure twice, install once.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

.

no you dont understand , I cut it twice and it was still too small.
No you really dont understand, & not sure what your point is -

the shaft saver is SOLD for that app, the part went on perfect. Right up until done.
Timken should damn well know better than to list this for this application.

Its impossible to install without this happening , at least without a magical mandrel to make a smooth transition. Which I nor any one outside of Aisin probably has.


Just dont put one on these TCs; the wholly unexpected but completely understandable (... NOW) fact that the gaps on the shaft printed ( swaged, actually) on the saver sleeve is a right pisser..

I couldnt get my dial indicator down there to see how much ripple there is on the surface, and its to hard to mic or caliper too, recessed as it were . There is still hope , going ot ask some tranny guys tomorrow ( no where near key west)

 

[02SE]

no you dont understand , I cut it twice and it was still too small.
No you really dont understand, & not sure what your point is -

I do understand. My point is measuring would reveal a non-cylindrical shaft, beforehand. If you're unable to measure to find an out-of-round, or non-cylindrical condition, well then poor results are likely.

I'm generally not a fan of Speedi-Sleeves. They are a band aid. Or standard equipment if you're Ford, and don't want to fix your Halo car (Ford GT) properly.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

"measure" had nothing to do with it ( and sleeves dont fix out-of-round, they simply fix seal-lip wear tracks) . There was some burnish where the seal lip rode, but honestly not enough to remedy except I had the sleeve hehehe.

So never mind the fact that measuring down in the CRITICAL part of the TC hub ( at the seal track) is basically impossible with standard mics & calipers. I'll do run-out for sure but have to hang the TC on, first.

The problem was the design of the converter hub ( with pump drive "teeth" exposed ) was not amenable to a good sleeve install. A uniform hub cylinder would have been a morning walk, but the pump drive notches on this TC was not.
Live learn spend ( bought a new TC today $115, figured the old one old enough to worry about anyway...)

I am a Very Much Fan of shaft repair sleeves (after using on several motors that are still dry after a couple years) beats the heck out of tossing otherwise servicable crank$ or cam$ (just not this TC! ) since I prefer to NOT build leaky motors, cos the trees dont hug back so warmly if I mark their territory with 10 30.

 

[02SE]

sleeves dont fix out-of-round, they simply fix seal-lip wear tracks.

Yes, I know.

I am a Very Much Fan of shaft repair sleeves (after using on several motors that are still dry after a couple years) beats the heck out of tossing otherwise servicable crank$ or cam$ (just not this TC! )

They are a band-aid, shade-tree fix. Sure, they can be used if a questionable fix is acceptable. Or if the proper method of repair isn't desired.

To each his own, I just prefer a higher standard of work.



Good luck.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

what is this Higher Standard I hear legend and lore of ? Pls detail this "proper method of repair" , I'm an eager student.

A spanky New Crank that costs more than the truck is worth ? I'll price the dealer for a OE casting for a 20 year old truck.
We could both use a knee slapper.

A couple new cams, god only knows how much ?

Maybe just ignore the resulting leak and call it an on-going oil change ( win win !)

So is a crank regrind & polish a shady fix?
Its a big variable but works for me time and again despite the limitations.

Are bore sleeves a dark world repair ? How about aluminum blocks with iron sleeves?
Those dang crank bearings consist of one material laid over another.
Coated pistons, paint over steel, my hockey stick ... all layered composites, not unlike a sleeve.

I'm curious what the drawback is for a shaft repair sleeve? Did one take your lunch money in primary school?
I have never had a problem with them (until now lol) and it doubles the service life of large expensive components.

Are there alternatives? There could be some bright sun method I am unfamiliar with but I'm still waiting for a link.

Grind the seal journal then locate an oversized seal? best of luck with that!

Spray welding + grind ? Maybe a priceless resto, but not a fading-from-memory ORV.

How about hardened races on undersize journals? That was The OE for machines I helped build back when I still had egg shell behind my ears.

If properly installed by a humble mechanic of ordinary skills in the correct application,

they create a new, near perfect surface finish stainless interface, exactly as cylindrical as the existing shaft, and only open the existing seal up a few (permissible) mils.

Now , if you beat one on, bent and cocked, without some race loctite, ok that sucks, but for now, I still don't get "it" ...

either list the alternatives and common failure modes or huh?

 

[02SE]

I don't get "it" ...

That's clear. I'll leave you to your methods.

Good luck.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

WHATS YOUR alternative / proper method for worn seal journal repair ?
Im just asking for some wisdom here and getting thin air

it ain't luck baby ...

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

I know his answer!

Buy a new vehicle, that'll fix the leaking seal!

BWWAAHAHAHAHAAA!!!!!:rockthrow: