Total Chaos Spindle Gusset Brake Clip Relocation Question.

[Road Bull]

Got some TC spindle gussets welded on and something that I'd been meaning to address has been in the back of my mind. And NOW I remembered.

What did you all do about the clip that holds the hard line on the original spindle? Did you fab another mount point? What did you use?

I read in rickashay's thread, https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3337729-post60.html , that he thought that others used longer Tacoma stainless steel brake lines, getting rid of the 4runner hard lines altogether. Has anyone gone that route. If so, what would keep the lines out of the way and from catching on something?

If things go well, I might be transplanting my old build to the new rig this weekend. So I am trying to tie up all these loose ends before I take my ride apart.

 

[turbodudey2]

I used the Tacoma extended length braided stainless lines, and eliminated the hard line. It worked very nicely. The lines come with a little mounting tab already attached, so I drilled a small hole in the gusset and routed the line right through the middle of it and secured it with the tab.

 

[midcoma]

Tacoma brake lines. Mine weren't extended length or anything. Tacomas have a banjo fitting at the caliper instead of a hard line. These spindles are from a Tacoma, so I'm not sure if the mounting tab for the brake line is different or not.

 

[papabeach]

Not a fancy solution but works for now....zip tie! Longer lines is a better answer for sure.

 

[Road Bull]

I used the Tacoma extended length braided stainless lines, and eliminated the hard line. It worked very nicely. The lines come with a little mounting tab already attached, so I drilled a small hole in the gusset and routed the line right through the middle of it and secured it with the tab.

Interesting... So what year Tacoma braided steel lines am I looking for? Extended or anything? have you had any issues with them? Did they work with your Tundra brake upgrade if you were running TBU?

Tacoma brake lines. Mine weren't extended length or anything. Tacomas have a banjo fitting at the caliper instead of a hard line. These spindles are from a Tacoma, so I'm not sure if the mounting tab for the brake line is different or not.

Wow.. that looks sharp. What lines did you use, What year Tacoma lines am I looking for and what brand did you go with? Are you running TBU? This seems like a fairly straightforward solution. As long as they don't catch on anything, they should be good. How long have you been running this set up?

 

[Road Bull]

Not a fancy solution but works for now....zip tie! Longer lines is a better answer for sure.

This is another way to keep utilizing what we got. I will have to take a look and see how I want to run it.

 

[turbodudey2]

Interesting... So what year Tacoma braided steel lines am I looking for? Extended or anything? have you had any issues with them? Did they work with your Tundra brake upgrade if you were running TBU?

No issues at all, so far. This is what the routing looked like. They were long enough I chose to go around the outside of the spindle, rather than the normal route inside the spindle. Seemed like it was too sharp of a bend to go inside. Although either way should work fine.

No TBU here. But they would work the same way regardless.

These are the lines I used (by the looks of it, same lines as midcoma too):
Tacoma Brake Lines: Wheeler's Off-Road

They are the regular length for the Tacoma, so they're not marketed as "extended length".

 

[midcoma]

What lines did you use and what brand did you go with?

Centric 950.44014

What year Tacoma lines am I looking for?

Anything from 96-02 should be fine.

Are you running TBU?

Yes.

How long have you been running this set up?

Since 28JUN17.

 

[Fishwerks]

I took some big pliers and bent the existing bracket until I could bolt it up. Kinda ghetto, but it worked.

 

[theesotericone]

I took some big pliers and bent the existing bracket until I could bolt it up. Kinda ghetto, but it worked.

Not ghetto at all. It's cheap and effective. It also looks like this. lol

That is my rig. It's got one or two hard wheeling miles on that set-up. lol

 

[papabeach]

No issues at all, so far. This is what the routing looked like. They were long enough I chose to go around the outside of the spindle, rather than the normal route inside the spindle. Seemed like it was too sharp of a bend to go inside. Although either way should work fine.

No TBU here. But they would work the same way regardless.

These are the lines I used (by the looks of it, same lines as midcoma too):
Tacoma Brake Lines: Wheeler's Off-Road

They are the regular length for the Tacoma, so they're not marketed as "extended length".

Turbodudey2,

A couple quick questions looking at your pic..
Is that pic at full droop? Do you rub much? I had that kind of spacing and problems with rubbing prior to getting my SCS F5's with 3.5" backspacing...no more problems ...just curious what your wheel/tire setup is and if you are having issues.

 

[papabeach]

Not ghetto at all. It's cheap and effective. It also looks like this. lol

That is my rig. It's got one or two hard wheeling miles on that set-up. lol

theeostericone,

Looking at your pic something about your gusset looks different to me. Is it the angle or were they installed so the access to the UBJ bolt is accessible from the back instead of the front? Maybe these are different than the TC ones I have...or maybe its 3am here and I am confused.

 

[turbodudey2]

A couple quick questions looking at your pic.
Is that pic at full droop? Do you rub much? I had that kind of spacing and problems with rubbing prior to getting my SCS F5's with 3.5" backspacing...no more problems ...just curious what your wheel/tire setup is and if you are having issues.

That picture was sitting at ride height. It doesn't rub at all. I had 1" wheel spacers for a long time, and just removed them recently. The clearance you see in the picture is without the spacers, and is about 3/16" between the tire and spindle gusset.

When I first removed the spacers, I was also concerned about rubbing at full droop. But after checking I realized the position of the tire relative to the spindle doesn't change as the suspension moves. Which makes sense because the plane of the hub is fixed relative to the spindle. The only thing that would affect the tire position is external loading (road forces), and those will all primarily affect only the lower half of the tire.

Anyway, it doesn't rub. Which is nice because it rides much better without the wheel spacers.

The wheels and tires are the original 16" split 3s with 285 Duratracs.

 

[turbodudey2]

theeostericone,

Looking at your pic something about your gusset looks different to me. Is it the angle or were they installed so the access to the UBJ bolt is accessible from the back instead of the front? Maybe these are different than the TC ones I have...or maybe its 3am here and I am confused.

Yeah, it looks like the gussets were installed on the wrong side (left gusset on the right spindle, and vise versa).

 

[papabeach]

That picture was sitting at ride height. It doesn't rub at all. I had 1" wheel spacers for a long time, and just removed them recently. The clearance you see in the picture is without the spacers, and is about 3/16" between the tire and spindle gusset.

When I first removed the spacers, I was also concerned about rubbing at full droop. But after checking I realized the position of the tire relative to the spindle doesn't change as the suspension moves. Which makes sense because the plane of the hub is fixed relative to the spindle. The only thing that would affect the tire position is external loading (road forces), and those will all primarily affect only the lower half of the tire.

Anyway, it doesn't rub. Which is nice because it rides much better without the wheel spacers.

The wheels and tires are the original 16" split 3s with 285 Duratracs.

Good point...I totally wasn’t tracking that...3am post—> poor brain function ..my problems were notable at lower psi for the reasons you mentioned! Glad you have a good fit!

 

[theesotericone]

theeostericone,

Looking at your pic something about your gusset looks different to me. Is it the angle or were they installed so the access to the UBJ bolt is accessible from the back instead of the front? Maybe these are different than the TC ones I have...or maybe its 3am here and I am confused.

Yeah, it looks like the gussets were installed on the wrong side (left gusset on the right spindle, and vise versa).

No wonder I never have any clearance issues others talk about. I never actually looked at any install directions. Just trimmed them and welded them up. Incorrectly I guess. lol

After wheeling on them like that pretty hard I'll probably weld my next set up incorrectly as well. I don't think it compromises the strength. The way I have them gives me zero clearance issues and I can replace the SPC slug pretty easily.

Thoughts? Other then I'm an idiot?

 

[papabeach]

No wonder I never have any clearance issues others talk about. I never actually looked at any install directions. Just trimmed them and welded them up. Incorrectly I guess. lol

After wheeling on them like that pretty hard I'll probably weld my next set up incorrectly as well. I don't think it compromises the strength. The way I have them gives me zero clearance issues and I can replace the SPC slug pretty easily.

Thoughts? Other then I'm an idiot?

Hey man, at least it’s functional! I wouldn’t beat yourself up too much...I have a number of “mods”’that work but aren’t really what was intended...part of the fun

 

[theesotericone]

Hey man, at least it’s functional! I wouldn’t beat yourself up too much...I have a number of “mods”’that work but aren’t really what was intended...part of the fun

I'm not. I'm laughing pretty good right now. None of my wheeling buddies caught it. Given that I solved all clearance issues it might be the new standard. lol

 

[Road Bull]

Hahah.. Now you guys are making me nervous on how mine are welded on. But hey, the other way offers the benefit of being able to get to the knuckle slug a good bit easier. How common is it to have to replace those? I see that being a real ***** the next go around. LOL.

 

[Kirk D]

No wonder I never have any clearance issues others talk about. I never actually looked at any install directions. Just trimmed them and welded them up. Incorrectly I guess. lol

After wheeling on them like that pretty hard I'll probably weld my next set up incorrectly as well. I don't think it compromises the strength. The way I have them gives me zero clearance issues and I can replace the SPC slug pretty easily.

Thoughts? Other then I'm an idiot?

Nothing wrong with it, looks like an improvement to me, with my experience changing the slug. I have another off-road vehicle with a set of (cough) radius arms, installed opposite and upside down for better up travel. Its been that way for years.