Trail suspension mods, still pondering some bits.

willo

New member
First of all, truck specs:
16 Trail
Warn hidden winch bumper
9500lb winch
(combo adds 150lbs to the front)
To be added: RCI front steel skid plate, aluminum plates in the rear.
In the spring: Sliders
Soonish - Rhinorack pioneer platform, probably in the spring.
Whenever I fix it - I have an ARB RTT that needs repair and I'll mount it whe n I want to use it.
I mention the above for weight considerations.

My original target here was a 2 inch lift and keeping the cost reasonable.
I opted for Fox 2.0s as I had them on my four door rubicon build and they worked very well. The 4runner rings in at maybe 600lbs more curb weight.
EDIT: Now going for Fox 2.5s 0-3 inch. :)
I've been collecting parts and I'm down to my last couple of decisions.

Front: Fox 2.5 0-3 coilovers - on the way
Front Option: cornfed 1" lift spacers (1/2" thick or so) - in hand.
Front UCA: SPC - ordered.

Rear: Fox 2.0 2-3 adjustable reservoir shocks - In hand.
Springs: OME 2895. -In hand

I read up a bit on the 2895 springs. They will probably net me around 2.5" but add some tools, weight, RTT for some adventures and I think they'll settle where I want them. Frankly these are inexpensive and easy enough to swap. I reviewed install pics and thought they looked good. If I need lower I can get the E version and reduce the lift.

I picked up the spacers just in case. Since the foxs are coilovers, they may help dial in the lift/preload up front. I'll leave them out of the equation unless I decide I really really need them.

I'll be doing the lift work myself, with an alignment down at Slee Offroad in Golden.

Edit:
After considering the JBA arms (and others) I decided to go with SPC. Why?
1) Slee offroad sells them and they do alignments. I like the idea of taking them to a shop that understands them.
2) SPC appear to have more adjustment available than other designs I looked at. In my experience, getting things aligned is one of the real keys to good driveability.
3) Cost - heck these things are decently priced.
4) I've used SPC stuff before and it's good quality. It's also a local-ish Colorado company.

Thoughts? I'm not really committed yet, just collecting parts and pieces.
 
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First of all, truck specs:
16 Trail
Warn hidden winch bumper
9500lb winch
(combo adds 150lbs to the front)
To be added: RCI front steel skid plate, aluminum plates in the rear.
In the spring: Sliders
Soonish - Rhinorack pioneer platform, probably in the spring.
Whenever I fix it - I have an ARB RTT that needs repair and I'll mount it whe n I want to use it.
I mention the above for weight considerations.

My original target here was a 2 inch lift and keeping the cost reasonable.
I opted for Fox 2.0s as I had them on my four door rubicon build and they worked very well. The 4runner rings in at maybe 600lbs more curb weight.
I've been collecting parts and I'm down to my last couple of decisions.

Front: Fox 2.0 0-2 coilovers - in hand.
Front Option: cornfed 1" lift spacers (1/2" thick or so) - in hand.
Front UCA: JBA high caster (Deciding)

Rear: Fox 2.0 2-3 adjustable reservoir shocks - In hand.
Springs: OME 2895. -In hand

I read up a bit on the 2895 springs. They will probably net me around 2.5" but add some tools, weight, RTT for some adventures and I think they'll settle where I want them. Frankly these are inexpensive and easy enough to swap. I reviewed install pics and thought they looked good. If I need lower I can get the E version and reduce the lift.

I picked up the spacers just in case. Since the foxs are coilovers, they may help dial in the lift/preload up front. I'll leave them out of the equation unless I decide I really really need them.

I'll be doing the lift work myself, with an alignment down at Slee Offroad in Golden.

I'm down to deciding on the front UCAs.
Right now I'm considering SPC or JBA. I use SPC stuff on my bmw and it's decent. That said I think the JBA offering is solid for the money.

Thoughts? I'm not really committed yet, just collecting parts and pieces.

2.0 too small for the front of these. Do 2.5. 2.0 rear is fine with a solid axle.

If you goal is to hit some difficult trails and are willing to sacrifice a little up travel (only needed for high speed difficult terrain). Do a long rear long travel if you do not have KDSS. It makes a world of difference and is the only thing that gives these trucks a fighting chance in very technical terrain. The body itself will also limit what it can do.

My 4 runner can keep up with built jeeps with 40k axles under them if there is space for the body. Std travel 4runners just can't get any traction in those conditions.
 
You can read in my signature on my setup......and I think its really setup like the build that you are describing.......and I feel it handles the extra weight really well.....I am building an overland setup to travel across the US on the Trans American Trail, National Parks, ect........about all I have left is to purchase a Hardshell RTT...hope this helps!!!!!!!!!
 
Too small as in too little damping or Too small as in too short lift wise? (or both)

After your comment, I took a look at the extension numbers:
Fox 2.0 0-2" coilover: 16.6350 compressed, 22.0600 extended, Travel 5.4250
Fox 2.5 0-3" coilover: 17.8500 compressed, 22.1900 extended, Travel 4.6100

To be honest, I just run forest service roads usually. Even when I had 35s on my JKU.

Well, I put an offer on a set of the 2.5s on the bay, we'll see if I can get my price...
I'm planning to do the deed next week while the wife is out of town. :)
 
Allright, I'm giving in. I was overcharged sales tax on my 2.0 coilovers and rather than screw around with it I'm just returning them and getting 2.5's.
The additional cost isn't that bad and I can go up to 3" up front if I need/want to.

Previously I was justifying 2.0 coilovers based on the minor upgrade in weight over my JK...
However, I realized that the JK is solid axle up front - this means that the body weight is much less.
Ultimately I have to agree that the 4runner will need additional damping up front.
The control arms create more leverage against the shocks, while on a JK the SFA means direct damping.
The combo of weight and the multiplier of the arm leverage is what's sold me on bigger dampers.
 
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