transfer case fill plug is seized, should I use a cordless impact

[Pyral]

Sorry if this has been discussed, but my fill bolt on my transfer case absolutely seized to the point I cant even make out the gasket (made sure it was the correct one before trying to remove it).

I sprayed a crapload of pb blaster last night and I tried using a breaker bar today, and it still wont budge. I have a six sided socket and an impact wrench, should I try to remove it with the impact wrench?

I have a replacement plug to put on, but I'm concerned that I could damage the threads.

 

[shadow247]

Sorry if this has been discussed, but my fill bolt on my transfer case absolutely seized to the point I cant even make out the gasket (made sure it was the correct one before trying to remove it).

I sprayed a crapload of pb blaster last night and I tried using a breaker bar today, and it still wont budge. I have a six sided socket and an impact wrench, should I try to remove it with the impact wrench?

I have a replacement plug to put on, but I'm concerned that I could damage the threads.

Try some heat first. Just heat the Case not the bolt. A butane torch will get the aluminum t-case plenty hot.

I would use a long breaker bar and a few whacks on the end of it with a dead blow hammer.

 

[Brian.]

I'm not a fan of impacts myself... have just seen too many instances where they made things worse. Try less aggressive methods first.

Penetrating fluid can take time, so give it a shot a day for a week. Combine this with:

impact, as in hit the plug. I like to do this with the socket on, this will help the threads shift a little and allow the penetrating fluid to work in.

Use the breaker bar to both try and tighten and loosen. If you can get ANY movement out of it, add more penetrating fluid and keep working it back and forth as this will help the fluid get in and do it's job.

The last step that I never see anyone mention, but that I use 99% of the time successfully on stuck fasteners is to hold pressure on the break bar for a long time. By "long time", I mean steady pressure that's just less than what would be needed to strip the head for several minutes. I've never had one Take several minutes, but it feels that way as you get past about 30 seconds. Force is cumulative, meaning that all that pressure over time adds up and breaks stuck fasteners free.

The last 1% of the time (2 or 3 bolts, ever) I'll use heat on.


I know most people go right for the power tools, I just learned differently. I use power tools as a convenience to speed things up After I've broken them free (or to snug up before torquing).

 

[sportscarfan]

It's been 11 years, but I had to weld a nut on one of my trans/tcase drain/fill bolts. Rounded 'er off.

 

[RandyBobandy]

Just throw a big pipe wrench on there, pretty much nothing you can’t fix with a pipe wrench

 

[Devbot]

You will not damage the threads if you are backing it out.

 

[brillo_76]

Just throw a big pipe wrench on there, pretty much nothing you can’t fix with a pipe wrench

As long as it's turned the proper way. How does that saying go? Lefty loosie, Righty tighty.

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[Pyral]

Got it loose, I tried the impact but decided to stop after a few seconds of nothing happening. Tried the breaker bar again and that got it off. Put anti-seize on it so hopefully it wont suck next time around.

 

[brillo_76]

Got it loose, I tried the impact but decided to stop after a few seconds of nothing happening. Tried the breaker bar again and that got it off. Put anti-seize on it so hopefully it wont suck next time around.

Good job. I been fortunate to not have one seize all these [30 years]. I always use 6 point sockets and 1/2 breaker bar or 1/2 inch long length racket myself.

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[Devbot]

Got it loose, I tried the impact but decided to stop after a few seconds of nothing happening. Tried the breaker bar again and that got it off. Put anti-seize on it so hopefully it wont suck next time around.

You must've hit the required number of swear words to unlock it

 

[Pyral]

Good job. I been fortunate to not have one seize all these [30 years]. I always use 6 point sockets and 1/2 breaker bar or 1/2 inch long length racket myself.

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When I did my rear diff I was using one of those useless 12 point 24 mm sockets because that was all I could find at the closest hardware store. I was probably putting my full strength when the 12 socket decided to flex around a corner and make me slip off and punch my diff. Luckily I bought the impact grade sockets that I use now that are 6 sided. Large diameter 12 side sockets shouldn't exist, they are almost guaranteed to meet the torque needed to go round a corner.

I feel very lucky that I didn't strip the front diff either. Those hex nuts are so easy to strip.

 

[phattyduck]

Got it loose, I tried the impact but decided to stop after a few seconds of nothing happening. Tried the breaker bar again and that got it off. Put anti-seize on it so hopefully it wont suck next time around.

Fill plugs (and really, even drain plugs) only need to be tightened just past snug. Most people (mechanics included) way overtighten them. The large diameter of the plug fools you into thinking they need to be tight...

-Charlie

 

[shadow247]

Fill plugs (and really, even drain plugs) only need to be tightened just past snug. Most people (mechanics included) way overtighten them. The large diameter of the plug fools you into thinking they need to be tight...

-Charlie

I think the spec is less than 25lbs.. I put mine back 1 finger tight and they aren't leaking.

 

[davidch]

When I did my rear diff I was using one of those useless 12 point 24 mm sockets because that was all I could find at the closest hardware store. I was probably putting my full strength when the 12 socket decided to flex around a corner and make me slip off and punch my diff. Luckily I bought the impact grade sockets that I use now that are 6 sided. Large diameter 12 side sockets shouldn't exist, they are almost guaranteed to meet the torque needed to go round a corner.

I feel very lucky that I didn't strip the front diff either. Those hex nuts are so easy to strip.

There's a inexpensive solution that will get a) 6 points of contact and b) as near as possible an angle-less contact with a fill or drain plug. They come in Honda motorcycle toolkits and are readily available on eBay. Honda calls them eye wrenches. Think a 6-point box end wrench with no offset.

Honda 99006-24000 - WRENCH EYE (24MM) | eBay

Years ago I used a 27mm version (full disclosure: it was a Kawasaki tool) to R&R the 4WD activation switch from a 5-speed 4Runner's transfer case. Access was tight, but a thin eye wrench did the job.

 

[Romeo1]

Impacts guns or impact screwdrivers done properly work well. Just turn down the power on the guns. Constant torque has a way of braking things, where as impacts don’t. Hammer the wrench/bar is an option also.

You could use heat also like mentioned. Just be careful to not start a fire. Vehicle fires in shops/garages suck.

People and mechanics alike totally over do it on drain/fill plugs.

And lastly, make sure your going the right direction. Dumb thing of me to say, I know, but worth mentioning.

 

[nissanh]

From years of experience, the only torque number I don't use to tight nuts/bolts are the diffs and transfers. Just hand tight it with a new crush washer, and that is all it needs.

Over tightening, especially the transfer can crack the housing.