UCAS do I need them

TankTop

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Just put 265/70/17 Duratracks on my '04 V8 (filled the wheel wells great and zero rubbing at lockout in reverse) and my next step is OME's with XREAS delete. My question is will upgraded UCAS do anything for this build and if so what? This will be a daily driver that will get into some great Colorado back country.


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It really depends on how your alignment turns out (you did do an alignment after putting on larger tires, right?). If you run out of camber that'd be a good reason to change out the upper control arms.
 
Just put 265/70/17 Duratracks on my '04 V8 (filled the wheel wells great and zero rubbing at lockout in reverse) and my next step is OME's with XREAS delete. My question is will upgraded UCAS do anything for this build and if so what? This will be a daily driver that will get into some great Colorado back country.


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Get some SPC UCA's, they look great and offer additional adjustments if you need them
 
I can't seem to get a straight answer on it. For a daily driver highway queen and a 3" suspension lift, some folks say just do it, but others say they've done dozens of T4R suspension lifts and are able to get perfect alignment without new UCAs. So I just don't know anymore.

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It really depends on how your alignment turns out (you did do an alignment after putting on larger tires, right?). If you run out of camber that'd be a good reason to change out the upper control arms.

Normally caster decreases the more you lift our suspensions. If your alignment is in specification and you are comfortable with the handling then you don't need aftermarket caster correcting UCAs.
Some people don't like the way a car with low caster handles, some folks don't mind low caster.
3" of lift is a rough estimate for when the car will be around the spec limit and/or the handling performance threshold (varies person to person).
Edit: Also, additional caster brings the wheel forward in the wheel well, which will decrease the chance of the wheels rubbing on the body mount.
 
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I put SPC UCA's on this time, the two times I lifted before I stayed stock. Three reasons:
1) More adjustability if you need it.
2) I read if you go to wider tires they can rub against the stock UCA's.
3) I read aftermarket UCA's can allow better articulation, wheel travel.

An example about articulation, I had a Tacoma with the TRD Baja 2" lift kit. TRD designed it to work with stock UCA's but they specifically noted in order to get the full travel out of the shocks upgraded UCA's are needed.

I cheaped out before and didn't upgrade, did fine keeping the lifts to about 2", there was some difficulty getting the caster in specs. As said above some people don't care if caster isn't in specs because it doesn't cause abnormal tire wear but does cause a floaty/wandering feel to the steering at high speeds.

This time on the '08 I figured I'd upgrade, boost it up closer to 3" lift and be able to adjust the caster to what feels the most stable at highway speeds.
 
I can't seem to get a straight answer on it. For a daily driver highway queen and a 3" suspension lift, some folks say just do it, but others say they've done dozens of T4R suspension lifts and are able to get perfect alignment without new UCAs. So I just don't know anymore.

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What does daily driver have to do with it? Do you want factory alignment numbers and handling characteristics or not? You can answer your own question. Install your lift and get it aligned. Math facts should provide a straight answer. No?
 
What does daily driver have to do with it? Do you want factory alignment numbers and handling characteristics or not? You can answer your own question. Install your lift and get it aligned. Math facts should provide a straight answer. No?
A straight answer re: whether UCAs are needed for a 3" suspension lift to retain spec alignment. Some say Yes, some say No.

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I'm just under 3 inch of lift and despite my caster at 3.3. It still wander quit a bit on the freeway. In fact, you'll constantly correct the steering wheel. Quite frustrating. Buy everyone's rig is different so trial and error. Best of luck!
 
You definitely HAVE to have UCA's! Without them the wheels would fall over!



I went with stock for a year, put some SPC's on and ride changed to the better, smoother. Glad I finally bought some.
 
Like others have said, it's a question if you like how it drives after the lift. Aftermarket UCA's will allow increased caster and better stability on the highway, but it's personal taste as to how much that matters to you.

For me, I didn't like the way the vehicle wandered with 2.5" of lift and about 2.7 degrees of caster (still within spec). I put on SPC UCA's, bumped the caster to 4 deg, and it drives great.
 

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