Upcoming work - Will I need an alignment?

[tystaco]

Looking to do the Tundra Brake Upgrade this weekend and I also have Energy Suspension rack bushings to install. My question is, will I need an alignment after doing the rack bushings if I disconnect the tie rod?

I'd hate to try and do the brake bedding process if my rig will be out of whack from the bushings, so I am wondering if I should split them up. Do the brake upgrade this weekend, order LBJ's, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and do them with the rack bushings at a later date and get a front end alignment after.

Thoughts?

 

[JayRolla]

If you just pop the tie rod end from the spindle and not touch the bolt to the inner tie rod end you will not need alignment.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I've had 3 alignments done so far, so that tells you how well I timed things. Although most of that was fixing broken stuff.

If you do the TBU, no alignment is necessary since you are just doing a brake job. Just be sure to wipe down (or scrub) all mating surfaces for the rotor and wheel otherwise it'll seem like your tires are out of balance if debris gets in between.

Unless you need the rack bushings, I'd advise against it. My steering became noticeably more firm and as a daily driver it got old fast. Not to mention getting the old ones out and new ones in was the most difficult and frustrating job I've ever done. And I've done a lot on this 4Runner. Close second was the started contacts. You won't need an alignment though if you do not disconnect the rack, I just let it droop and supported it with some boxes and wood and such I had laying around.

If you do LBJ's you will need an alignment, or any tie rod or ball joint for that matter. So do those all at once and the steering rack bushings if you want, and do the brakes another day or visa-versa. Sway bar bushings are easy but might as well do that with the LBJ's since you have everything apart.

 

[JWaldz]

Doing brakes will not require alignment.

Doing just rack bushings will not require alignment.

Doing just LBJ's will not require an alignment BUT does require the removal of just the outer tire rod end to the spindle. Doing so you will want to either lock your steering wheel or secure it so it doesn't spin.

Doing any of the tie rods will require an alignment and you will want to lock or secure your steering wheel like mentioned above.

My suggestion: Do the LBJ's, rack bushings, and tie rods all at once. Then, get an alignment. Then, do brakes by themselves.

 

[tystaco]

Doing brakes will not require alignment.

Doing just rack bushings will not require alignment.

Doing just LBJ's will not require an alignment BUT does require the removal of just the outer tire rod end to the spindle. Doing so you will want to either lock your steering wheel or secure it so it doesn't spin.

Doing any of the tie rods will require an alignment and you will want to lock or secure your steering wheel like mentioned above.

My suggestion: Do the LBJ's, rack bushings, and tie rods all at once. Then, get an alignment. Then, do brakes by themselves.

This is the direction I am leaning. I have the brake parts now, and the rack bushings. I think I will order the other parts and get them coming, but do the brakes first.

 

[4runnerNick]

Just Do it All At Once!

I would agree that an alignment doesn't seem needed. Though after I did the same this for my 97 I ended up having to replace the left outer tie rod due to the boot having a large crack in it (not sure if that was my fault or just old). When I got the alignment the next day after replacing the driver side tie rod the shop said though the driver side was out of alignment my passenger side was more out of alignment. Can changes on the left effect the right? I'd think so. I'd just had new tires put on a week prior and to their "visual check" nothing was out of alignment. I say just do it all at once! Its not like you're gonna do it yourself, right? You seem smart enough to have a helping hand (maybe that's done the work themselves) when doing this kind of work.

 

[JayRolla]

I've had 3 alignments done so far, so that tells you how well I timed things. Although most of that was fixing broken stuff.

If you do the TBU, no alignment is necessary since you are just doing a brake job. Just be sure to wipe down (or scrub) all mating surfaces for the rotor and wheel otherwise it'll seem like your tires are out of balance if debris gets in between.

Unless you need the rack bushings, I'd advise against it. My steering became noticeably more firm and as a daily driver it got old fast. Not to mention getting the old ones out and new ones in was the most difficult and frustrating job I've ever done. And I've done a lot on this 4Runner. Close second was the started contacts. You won't need an alignment though if you do not disconnect the rack, I just let it droop and supported it with some boxes and wood and such I had laying around.

If you do LBJ's you will need an alignment, or any tie rod or ball joint for that matter. So do those all at once and the steering rack bushings if you want, and do the brakes another day or visa-versa. Sway bar bushings are easy but might as well do that with the LBJ's since you have everything apart.

Everything is good info except the LBJ's. You can still replace those without alignment. Unless they are super loose when alignment was done.

 

[JWaldz]

This is the direction I am leaning. I have the brake parts now, and the rack bushings. I think I will order the other parts and get them coming, but do the brakes first.

Yea, I suppose it doesn't matter if you do brakes before or after. I'd honestly just do it all in one day if you have the time. The brakes are a simple bolt off/on process. Only thing is to grind on the dust shield a little. Only reason to break up the jobs is if you don't have enough time in one day.

Good luck.

 

[tystaco]

I would agree that an alignment doesn't seem needed. Though after I did the same this for my 97 I ended up having to replace the left outer tie rod due to the boot having a large crack in it (not sure if that was my fault or just old). When I got the alignment the next day after replacing the driver side tie rod the shop said though the driver side was out of alignment my passenger side was more out of alignment. Can changes on the left effect the right? I'd think so. I'd just had new tires put on a week prior and to their "visual check" nothing was out of alignment. I say just do it all at once! Its not like you're gonna do it yourself, right? You seem smart enough to have a helping hand (maybe that's done the work themselves) when doing this kind of work.

I am trying to save you a little more of headache than the one you just had doing yours! And to be fair, we bedded your brakes before you went after the bushings. I probably would have fully tossed my cookies had your truck been doing out of alignment death wobble slamming from 60 mph to 10 mph.

 

[mtbtim]

Everything is good info except the LBJ's. You can still replace those without alignment. Unless they are super loose when alignment was done.

I was thinking the same exact thing when I was reading his post. There's no way you need an alignment after replacing LBJs unless the previous alignment was done with LBJs with lots of play.

 

[mtbtim]

OP, here's a few videos that can help you out with this project. I don't have anything for the complete outer tie rod removal but it looks pretty straight forward and easy if you have the right wrenches.

Here's the videos:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/P8zy-j4UBUo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfLvtEnX9qk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YywcR0E9bM4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Kanoe]

My question is, will I need an alignment after doing the rack bushings if I disconnect the tie rod?

Thoughts?

Not sure if anyone mentioned this but..

I found there is no need to remove a tie rod end to change the rack bushings. Just lift the front tires 1/2 an inch off the ground and then the tires will pivot as you push and pull on the rack. This gave me all the space I needed.

 

[tystaco]

OP, here's a few videos that can help you out with this project. I don't have anything for the complete outer tie rod removal but it looks pretty straight forward and easy if you have the right wrenches

Tim, I appreciate your links, but I have already watched your videos a few times and they will be on while I do the job! I can't tell you how much I appreciate your well documented work, it takes a lot of guess work out of it for the rest of us! Please keep at it!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Everything is good info except the LBJ's. You can still replace those without alignment. Unless they are super loose when alignment was done.

I forgot that I did my suspension the same day I did the LBJ's, so an alignment was badly needed, could barely drive it straight.

 

[IBallEngineer]

I was thinking the same exact thing when I was reading his post. There's no way you need an alignment after replacing LBJs unless the previous alignment was done with LBJs with lots of play.

Once again I'm the guy who disagrees. Even a minor variation from one ball joint(and bracket) can affect the alignment. I doubt you'd see a degree, or even half a degree of change but why risk even .2? And any change will affect toe, which has the potential to wear tires immediately if not sooner:fro:

Even if all you do is check toe with a string or a measuring tape, I'd do that. But I'd never say there is no way i'd say NO WAY. Hehe!

 

[mtbtim]

Once again I'm the guy who disagrees. Even a minor variation from one ball joint(and bracket) can affect the alignment. I doubt you'd see a degree, or even half a degree of change but why risk even .2? And any change will affect toe, which has the potential to wear tires immediately if not sooner:fro:

Even if all you do is check toe with a string or a measuring tape, I'd do that. But I'd never say there is no way i'd say NO WAY. Hehe!

Well, the assumption is you are replacing an OEM part with an OEM part. I'd agree with you if I was one of the ignorant who thought going with an aftermarket balljoint was a good idea, because maybe then there could be a variance between the two.

With no play in my old joint, I think I can safely assume everything is going to be the same when I put in the new joint. Even if I had one of those lifetime alignment deals, I wouldn't waste my personal time getting another alignment. But hey, everyone is entitled to their opinion and can do whatever they see fit with their rig.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Well, the assumption is you are replacing an OEM part with an OEM part. I'd agree with you if I was one of the ignorant who thought going with an aftermarket balljoint was a good idea, because maybe then there could be a variance between the two.

With no play in my old joint, I think I can safely assume everything is going to be the same when I put in the new joint. Even if I had one of those lifetime alignment deals, I wouldn't waste my personal time getting another alignment. But hey, everyone is entitled to their opinion and can do whatever they see fit with their rig.

Hey I can always double down with the FSM, like a lifeline haha!:cell:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/flbj/inst.pdf