Valve adjustment woes '94 T4R 3VZE

[Blamalam]

All right, guys...I've been researching this absolute b!tc# of a job for a couple of months now. The SSTs just came in so I decided to give it a shot--and couldn't. I couldn't get the little flat bar situation to sit properly on the lip of the bucket, and after four hours of effort I just said "screw it."

I'm going to take off the cams. Is this doable without air tools, or should I start planning my 4Runner bonfire instead? I've seen the home-made tools on the various forums for removing the cam sprockets, but do I need to take them off completely? I just want to lift the cam up enough to get those FRIGGIN' SHIMS out from underneath the cam lobe.

This truck is frustrating the crap out of me, and it's not even my daily driver.

 

[dogojoe96]

You should be able to get the cams off with the timing gear on therefore it could be easily done without air tools. If you have to change every shim it is much easier to have the cam out. Be sure to get your measurements before you pull the cam so you know what shim is needed in order to be within the tolerance spec.

Do you know when the timing belt and water pump was last done? If not now would be a great time to do it since you are that far torn down.

If you run into any problems don't be afraid to ask!

 

[Rodnic]

What you are going through sends shivers down my spine! I haven't had my 94 T4R very long but I know that someday I will be faced with what you are going through. Hang in there, Blamalam. It's encouraging to hear those words from dogojoe96; "if you need help, just ask". I'm sure he means it and there are others who feel the same.

Rod

 

[jgilk1]

This is why i am going to put a chevy motor in my truck then take the pos 3vze down to a local shop that make boat anchors and have them melt it down... Mine has excessive valve chatter from cylinder 4 (middle on driver side us) i pulled the valve cover when i bought the truck looked at the rocker and said i guess i deal with that noise till it goes... Im so sorry you have to shim...

 

[Blamalam]

You should be able to get the cams off with the timing gear on therefore it could be easily done without air tools. If you have to change every shim it is much easier to have the cam out. Be sure to get your measurements before you pull the cam so you know what shim is needed in order to be within the tolerance spec.

Do you know when the timing belt and water pump was last done? If not now would be a great time to do it since you are that far torn down.

If you run into any problems don't be afraid to ask!

Thanks for the encouragement, y'all! I was pooped after a full day of work followed by wrenching in near-100 degree weather. I did the water pump and timing belt about two weeks ago, which is when I decided "heck with it, I'm gonna do the valve adjustment!" Derp.

I've taken my measurements and have written them down in a table, so I think I'm good to go there.

To remove the cams, I'm looking at what exactly? Remove timing belt, front timing cover, undo vacuum line to fuel rail (at least that's what it looks like)...what else? I know to keep the cam caps in order. Any gotchas to watch out for?

 

[dogojoe96]

Sounds like you have it down from my experience. Would you mind posting a pic of the SST? I've always just pulled the cam or one time I used an inch and half or so wrench to catch the edge of the bucket and an assortment of picks to get that puck out. (that was a desperate situation for only one valve)

 

[Blamalam]

Sounds like you have it down from my experience. Would you mind posting a pic of the SST? I've always just pulled the cam or one time I used an inch and half or so wrench to catch the edge of the bucket and an assortment of picks to get that puck out. (that was a desperate situation for only one valve)

I'll have to grab a pic for you. Basically, the SSTs (there are two) look like a) a pair of bent pliers, and b) a flat prybar with steps on each end. The pliers lock around the (cast part of the) camshaft, while the prybar is *supposed* to sit on the lip of the bucket part of the follower. The problem is that lip is about 2 mm wide, and sloped, so the prybar bit slides right off as soon as its disturbed.

I've read about using a 3/16" Allen key to push down the cam follower, paired with the prybar SST. I haven't tried that yet, but I'll give it a shot before I pull the cams.

 

[Blamalam]

Just wanted to update y'all...

First, if you're going to do this PULL THE CAMS. I can't believe how much easier it was with the cams out and not needed to contort my hands around them to get at the valves. I used a magnet to pop the shims loose, measured, and swapped around until I had good clearances all the way around. I needed to get 4 shims from my local dealer at $12 each, so in the end it was painless...with the cams out.

Thanks for the help, guys!