Vapor Barrier and Butyl Tape

sr3tlaw

Member
Attached is a picture of the rear vapor barrier mask and its Butyl tape (that's actually what it's called). Does anyone have any idea of how to best remove the tape so I can reapply.

Thanks
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Haha! You'll need a plastic scraper and a dictionary of swear words. A mild solvent will help pick up what the knife misses, but don't use the solvent first or you'll make a terrible mess.
 
You don't want to damage the paint finish if you can help it, stay away from acetone or anything stronger. Denatured alcohol, gasoline, WD40, maybe Goof Off? I've used a shop rag dipped in a little bit of gasoline, seemed to work ok if you can handle the fumes.

Forgot to mention, a heat gun or hair dryer will help you get the rope off in one piece which means less detail work with the solvent. Be careful if you use a heat gun, you can scorch the paint if you get too close.
 
Before I would mess around with removing it, I would just go over it. Clean it up some and reapply. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it unless you are going into a swamp or in the frozen artic where you don't want the draft.
 
I wouldn't heat it up too much, it gets very sticky and tacky when it's warmed up and less so when it's cold. You know, sound deadening crap is pretty tacky like that Butyl Tape; any way you could use dry ice to freeze it and then chip it off like you do with sound deadening?
 
I wouldn't heat it up too much, it gets very sticky and tacky when it's warmed up and less so when it's cold. You know, sound deadening crap is pretty tacky like that Butyl Tape; any way you could use dry ice to freeze it and then chip it off like you do with sound deadening?

Funny you mention sound deadening. Butyl tape plays an important role in sound reduction.

Not sure how you would incorporate dry ice to freeze the tape on the door(they don't make a dry ice gun?) but I understand your POV. Maybe lots of air duster upside down haha.
 
Before I would mess around with removing it, I would just go over it. Clean it up some and reapply. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it unless you are going into a swamp or in the frozen artic where you don't want the draft.
[MENTION=49]Sungod[/MENTION] What do you mean by "draft"?
 
I wouldn't heat it up too much, it gets very sticky and tacky when it's warmed up and less so when it's cold. You know, sound deadening crap is pretty tacky like that Butyl Tape; any way you could use dry ice to freeze it and then chip it off like you do with sound deadening?

lol I have three layers of butyl sound deadening on the rear hatch and a fourth that replaced the stock vapour barrier. Completely stopped my rear plate from rattling when my music is cranked, reduced road noise (trunk floor sound deadened too), but the funny thing is that what I liked most about it is it added some weight to the door so it doesn't feel like cheap thin metal when you open and close it
 
Not sure how you would incorporate dry ice to freeze the tape on the door(they don't make a dry ice gun?) but I understand your POV. Maybe lots of air duster upside down haha.

What about a can or two of that air-in-a-can that you use to clean keyboards. If you turn that can upside down so that the propellant sprays out instead of the air it's dangerously cold.

They do actually make dry ice guns but they are huge, expensive contraptions that you wouldn't want to buy for a single use.
 
lol I have three layers of butyl sound deadening on the rear hatch and a fourth that replaced the stock vapour barrier. Completely stopped my rear plate from rattling when my music is cranked, reduced road noise (trunk floor sound deadened too), but the funny thing is that what I liked most about it is it added some weight to the door so it doesn't feel like cheap thin metal when you open and close it
Did you replace the actual plastic Barrier? Mine is starting to rip
 
[MENTION=49]Sungod[/MENTION] What do you mean by "draft"?

It functions to keep air out. If you have a hole in the plastic you can get air flowing into the cabin. It really isn't a big deal. In my old car stereo days, would just cut the plastic off rather than deal with it and had no negative effects. The door is sealed pretty well anyway so it isn't that important.
 
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May be a dumb question, but can anyone explain what the moisture barrier is intended to accomplish in the rear hatch?? Can it be related to the door actuator not working consistently/properly and/or rain water getting under the carpet when the back end is parked higher than the front end??

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
May be a dumb question, but can anyone explain what the moisture barrier is intended to accomplish in the rear hatch?? Can it be related to the door actuator not working consistently/properly and/or rain water getting under the carpet when the back end is parked higher than the front end??

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Water will get pass any of the weather stripping for the movable glass to framework on all doors and the hatch and get inside them, no way to stop that and it's the reason why all the doors and hatch has weep holes in the bottom edge to allow that water an exit/drain.

The plastic moisture barrier is sealed to the inner metal of the doors/hatch to prevent water vapor/humidity from entering the interior of the vehicle.

If your carpet gets wet during rain, you most likely have a bad weather stripping seal between the hatch/doors and the openings.
 

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