Recently had my rear u joint and shaft replaced with a used one. I notice a deep vibration when I let off the gas at 65 or 70 mph. Thinking maybe there could be play in the used u joint/drive shaft that is not apparent when accelerating? 2000 SR5 4x4. I seemed to recall reading a thread saying it is important to mark the position of the part when removing, and wondering if there might be some orientation problem.
Vibration when letting off the gas at speed, U Joint?
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Quick check all five grease zerks should be in line on rear drive shaft.
You can grease all without rotating shaft.
You can grease all without rotating shaft.
dogtail
New member
Putting in a used shaft without rebuilding it is taking a chance anyway. It may be a simple U-joint which is easy which is typical with letting off the gas. But also there are balancing issues and DC-joint issues. I had my driveshaft recently rebuilt for $235, all joints replaced including DC joints/ball with balancing for $235. Don't listen to the naysayers on the DC joint, it can be rebuilt by someone that knows what they're doing. Also Check the Pinion bearing, put in neutral & e-brake, climb under and see if you can move pinion shaft up/down (connects at rear of driveshaft).
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JMat
New member
When my pinion bearing went out I had noise and vibration at any speed over about 10 mph.
I had the rear u-joint go out about a year ago and I first started noticing it when I was going down a hill and would let off the accelerator. From there it proceeded to be noticable whenever I would be driving 60+mph and continued to get worse from there. All this time there was no play in the u-joint itself and I had a couple mechanics look at it too. Wasn't until I took it to a driveline shop that they found it to be the rear u-joint. Replaced it and problem solved.
I had the rear u-joint go out about a year ago and I first started noticing it when I was going down a hill and would let off the accelerator. From there it proceeded to be noticable whenever I would be driving 60+mph and continued to get worse from there. All this time there was no play in the u-joint itself and I had a couple mechanics look at it too. Wasn't until I took it to a driveline shop that they found it to be the rear u-joint. Replaced it and problem solved.
since we both live in reno and I just bought a 2001 what shop was that? I may need one in the future.
JMat
New member
Nice... Another Reno-ite. It was Drive Line & Gear Service in Sparks.
Although after watching the video that [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] made recently I'd do it myself next time.
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mtbtim
Elite Member
This is very solid advice. The driveshaft on these rigs is balanced with all the zerk fittings facing the same direction. A quick check will reveal if the slip yoke was slid onto the driveshaft in the proper orientation. If the zerk fitting for the rear slip yoke isn't facing the same direction as the zerk fittings on the double cardan joint, disconnect the driveshaft at the 3rd member, remove the slip yoke and re-insert it so the zerk fitting is lined up with the double cardan u-joint zerk fittings.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Question is Keith, what quality parts were available for this rebuild? It's not that the job can't be done, it's the fact that quality replacement parts are hard to source. If it were me, I'd have put that $235 towards a custom driveshaft from Tom Woods that is built with easy to source quality replacement parts.
dogtail
New member
We already talked about this, I guess you didn't see my response about a month ago. It may have been during the site hack so you didn't get notification. Here is link with my pics and parts. Would be really cool if you could take this on in a Timmy Tool Man "how to" video.
Double Cardan rebuild
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