Vibrations from 60-70mph

[ir0nma1den]

So I've had had vibrations when driving from about 60 - 70 mph. It gradually appears after 50 mph, is the worst around 60, and tapers off after 70. The noise in the cabin is pretty annoying, almost a deafening drone. Reading other threads, I was sure it was the rear u-joint and ordered the replacement. I got under there to check if there was any play. Both the rear u-joint and double cardan joint were solid. I found no play in either while in park or neutral.

Any suggestions? Could my rear u-joint still be the problem?

 

[SURF RUNNER]

Scroll down on page 1 and read my post. I had a similar issue that was resolved by replacing the spark plugs and wires. Initially I thought it was a bad u-joint, unbalanced drive shaft, and/or transmission issues.

 

[ir0nma1den]

I read your post, but I changed my spark plugs and wires last June. The only code I'm getting is a P0420 that I've had for a while even after changing the sensor.

 

[ir0nma1den]

This weekend I did a few tests to determine if the engine was the problem. While going downhill and producing the vibrations at 60 - 70mph, I shifted into neutral theorizing that if I still get vibrations while the engine is not engaged with the driveline, then it has nothing to do with the engine. Vibrations continued while in neutral at speed, so I think I can rule out the engine.


I also tried 4wd for the hell of it, and still produced vibrations.

My only other thought is that it could be the sway bar bushings, as they need to be replaced.

Is my logic sound, or am I missing something?

 

[SeaBassHWD]

Did you check of there's any play in the steering?

 

[JMat]

I had the same issue and it just kept getting worse. It started out by making noise in the 60 mph range if I was going downhill with my foot off the gas. It eventually got to the point where it was there anytime I got over about 30 mph. I checked my u-joints and they appreared to be solid but eventually took the driveshaft to a specialty shop and it was my rear most u-joint.

 

[Sarki]

Sometimes we overlook the more obvious possibilities.
Tires in good shape with no bulges in sidewall and even tread wear?
I would confirm proper balance before moving onto other areas that involve replacing parts.

 

[TheDurk]

Do you feel it in the steering wheel? Touch the shift handles, are they vibrating? You can tell us more than you have. Is there any noise, or just vibration?

 

[thezentree]

Is your 4Runner lifted?

 

[Bad Luck]

This weekend I did a few tests to determine if the engine was the problem. While going downhill and producing the vibrations at 60 - 70mph, I shifted into neutral theorizing that if I still get vibrations while the engine is not engaged with the driveline, then it has nothing to do with the engine. Vibrations continued while in neutral at speed, so I think I can rule out the engine.


I also tried 4wd for the hell of it, and still produced vibrations.

My only other thought is that it could be the sway bar bushings, as they need to be replaced.

Is my logic sound, or am I missing something?

Sway bar bushings will make a noise but not cause a vibration when they are bad

 

[Formidable]

1. Tire balancing. Alignment.
2. Make sure to grease U joints. Do not overgrease.
3. After greasing, find a curb. Hit the curb in reverse at 5 mph. Get the rear end over the curb. Bring it back down. Go up and over 10 times or so. This compresses the driveshaft and forces the grease to spread uniformly.
4. If lifted get a diff drop kit. This reduces the CV angle and will help.
5. If 3” coilovers, reduce height by 1” and get a 1” body lift installed. This reduces the CV angles and should improve the vibration significantly.
6. If none of the above work, check your driver side CV shaft for play. If play, get the Driver’s side needle bearing replaced with the bearing from East Coast Gear Supply.

 

[Ksenn]

I had a very similar problem between 55-70 after installing a 3" suspension lift with a diff drop, upper control arms, and new CV axles. I could feel it in the steering wheel the most, in the floor, and in the seat. It didn't change frequency with change in speed. Nothing changed by putting it in neutral or 4wd.

I rotated the tires, had the wheels balanced a couple times. Checked the Ujoints, wheel bearings, and replaced the steering rack bushings. Everything seemed fine. I figured it was from the lift and I'd just live with it.

My steering rack began leaking this winter, so I replaced it this Spring along with the LCA bushings. Boom. Vibrations gone and it handles much better. I'm guessing the vibrations were caused by the 20+ year old LCA bushings.

 

[ambush]

HOLY MOLY! I was about to pay $150 to have a shop rebalance my DRIVESHAFT. I have never changed the bushings. SPLENDED. Thank you so much. I will do that ASAP.

 

[DAWG NATION]

HOLY MOLY! I was about to pay $150 to have a shop rebalance my DRIVESHAFT. I have never changed the bushings. SPLENDED. Thank you so much. I will do that ASAP.

Did that ^ sort out the vibrations for you?

Also OP did you find a solution?

 

[ir0nma1den]

Did that ^ sort out the vibrations for you?

Also OP did you find a solution?

I've been occupied with moving the past few weeks, so this problem has been on the back burner. I did have a fun story happen while driving to the beach where my exaust system broke clean off in between the first and second cat because of rust... $90 later and I had a shop weld a new pipe between the two cats. Funny enough, my P0420 code cleared itself after the pipe broke. We will see if it holds.

I had a very similar problem between 55-70 after installing a 3" suspension lift with a diff drop, upper control arms, and new CV axles. I could feel it in the steering wheel the most, in the floor, and in the seat. It didn't change frequency with change in speed. Nothing changed by putting it in neutral or 4wd.

I rotated the tires, had the wheels balanced a couple times. Checked the Ujoints, wheel bearings, and replaced the steering rack bushings. Everything seemed fine. I figured it was from the lift and I'd just live with it.

My steering rack began leaking this winter, so I replaced it this Spring along with the LCA bushings. Boom. Vibrations gone and it handles much better. I'm guessing the vibrations were caused by the 20+ year old LCA bushings.

I'll have to check the LCA bushings. Besides a bigger tire size and the 199mm Tacoma front brake upgrade, my 4runner is stock.

1. Tire balancing. Alignment.
2. Make sure to grease U joints. Do not overgrease.
3. After greasing, find a curb. Hit the curb in reverse at 5 mph. Get the rear end over the curb. Bring it back down. Go up and over 10 times or so. This compresses the driveshaft and forces the grease to spread uniformly.
4. If lifted get a diff drop kit. This reduces the CV angle and will help.
5. If 3” coilovers, reduce height by 1” and get a 1” body lift installed. This reduces the CV angles and should improve the vibration significantly.
6. If none of the above work, check your driver side CV shaft for play. If play, get the Driver’s side needle bearing replaced with the bearing from East Coast Gear Supply.

Do you feel it in the steering wheel? Touch the shift handles, are they vibrating? You can tell us more than you have. Is there any noise, or just vibration?

It's more of a noise, not much vibration. There is some vibration in the steering wheel, none in the shifter.

Sometimes we overlook the more obvious possibilities.
Tires in good shape with no bulges in sidewall and even tread wear?
I would confirm proper balance before moving onto other areas that involve replacing parts.

Slight bulge in the sidewall. I've been meaning to check the air pressure.

Did you check of there's any play in the steering?

No play in the steering wheel.

 

[ambush]

Did that ^ sort out the vibrations for you?

Also OP did you find a solution?

Sorry for late reply.
Well no. It is still there. I literally did the inner tie rods and LCAs on both sides.
same. I will change the bushings on the sway bar end links (they are cracked up pretty bad). I did an alignment of course after replacing the inner tie rods. Aftermarket ones had my steering wheel way off!!

 

[T4topher]

Sorry for late reply.
Well no. It is still there. I literally did the inner tie rods and LCAs on both sides.
same. I will change the bushings on the sway bar end links (they are cracked up pretty bad). I did an alignment of course after replacing the inner tie rods. Aftermarket ones had my steering wheel way off!!

Probably not the sway bar bushings, take your sway bar off for a day and see.. just drive careful if you do..

 

[HiHoStevo]

I am looking forward to your solution... I purchased a non-lifted 1998 with 98,000 miles on it... it has aftermarket wheels and Pathfinder tires and I have had them to 5 different shops for balancing, but still have vibrations at highway speeds.

I had a mechanic look the car over when I bought it, but perhaps I need him to do a deeper search in the suspension parts. Right after purchase the Toyota dealer informed me of a recall that was about 12+ years old that the previous owner never did... replaced all of the shocks for free.

 

[Wikano]

Bigger tires and 231mm tundra brakes blew through my 20 year old oem LCA bushing and trashed new aftermarket LC Arms/bushings within a year. You'll feel it in the steering wheel and when doing any hard braking if it is your LCA bushings. This can often be mistaken for OTR failure or alignment problems. I would go for Whiteline Poly bushings in our OEM Lower Control Arms.... believe me aftermarket LCAs can be good for a little while but they will mess up your LBJ and possibly tie rods/steering rack by transferring braking force to them (causing your steering vibes/pull). You will need a 12 ton press, bottle jack, and a propane torch but it's not so bad of a job once you learn a few tricks.

 

[ir0nma1den]

Dropped it off at a mechanic and was told the vibrations and noise was from the rear wheel bearings. Quoted $600 to do both. Doesn't seem like a job I can really tackle without the right tools and a garage. I think I might do it, thoughts?