Was I supposed to RTV waterpump gasket?

gaber6

New member
I did my head gaskets last summer, as well as new waterpump and such. Yesterday, the waterpump started seeping. I'll go in there and retorque the little 10mm bolts, but was there supposed to be any sealant on that metal gasket that the pump came with?

05 V6
 
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I did my head gaskets last summer, as well as new waterpump and such. Yesterday, the waterpump started seeping. I'll go in there and retorque the little 10mm bolts, but was there supposed to be any sealant on that metal gasket that the pump came with?

05 V6

Not on the waterpump. Did my timing/WP on my V8 in Jan and there was no new gasket sealer on old and no instructions anywhere to put it on the metal gasket.

As [MENTION=110072]Fern[/MENTION] said, there is the waterpump outlet that only uses Toyota FIPG (gasket in a tube) - all assuming it is the same as the V8.

Are you sure it's the waterpump gasket and not the outlet, thermostat or it is just weeping?

Has to be frustrating...
 
Can't tell for sure.. It looks like it's the pump to the front cover, but hopefully something easier like thermostat housing and dripping down. I've got a garage Monday to check closer. I used a inch-pound wrench on install and remember the torque wasn't a lot.
 
Can't tell for sure.. It looks like it's the pump to the front cover, but hopefully something easier like thermostat housing and dripping down. I've got a garage Monday to check closer. I used a inch-pound wrench on install and remember the torque wasn't a lot.

The 12mm bolts tighten to 23 Nm, the 10mm bolts tighten to 9 Nm. No sealant to be used on the gasket, just super clean surfaces.

Also check for leakage at the thermostat housing junction with the big coolant pipe that runs from front to rear of the engine. It has a large O-ring which is a guaranteed leak if not replaced, or if it gets dinged during installation.
 
Thanks!.. I almost feel like I didn't go up to 23 on the 12mms. It's snowy out today and I don't wanna go out. Ha
 
I got 1/4 turn on a few passenger side bolts, enough to slow the leak. I'll have to get the belt off to get all the driver side bolts. Should solve the problem.
 
I got 1/4 turn on a few passenger side bolts, enough to slow the leak. I'll have to get the belt off to get all the driver side bolts. Should solve the problem.

With your torque wrench set to 9 Nm, or going by feel with a regular wrench/socket? The pump housing and timing chain cover are cast aluminum and don't tolerate nonuniform torque well...accurate torque of the fasteners is critical.

Also plan on removing the cooling fan and pulley so you can access the bolts covered by the pulley.
 
Initially an in.lb. wrench on install but today just my tiny socket wrench to see if the bolts were loose, which 1/2 on the passenger side were. There are still drips on the driver side.
And yes, the fan and pulley will come off too. My HOA frowns on too much car work in the parking lot for that today.
 
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I got 1/4 turn on a few passenger side bolts, enough to slow the leak. I'll have to get the belt off to get all the driver side bolts. Should solve the problem.

With your torque wrench set to 9 Nm, or going by feel with a regular wrench/socket? The pump housing and timing chain cover are cast aluminum and don't tolerate nonuniform torque well...accurate torque of the fasteners is critical.

Also plan on removing the cooling fan and pulley so you can access the bolts covered by the pulley.

Initially an in.lb. wrench on install but today just my tiny socket wrench to see if the bolts were loose, which 1/2 on the passenger side were. There are still drips on the driver side.
And yes, the fan and pulley will come off too. My HOA frowns on too much car work in the parking lot for that today.

I can tell you from years of experience that tightening down cast aluminum components on one side and then the other side could very well easily crack the aluminum, such components should be tightening down gradually and from side to side in a crisscross pattern, this should be done as mentioned gradually/a little at time on each bolt while maintaining the pattern until you have them torqued properly.
 
I understand The tightening on aluminum for sure. It appears this gasket failed though. Driver side oozes out all around the pump. I have a new gasket ordered and I'll be replacing it Friday.
I was careful on all my bolts on install and even marked all of them with a paint pen...
Am i allowed to blame the polar vortex a few weeks ago?
 
9n-m = 80in-lbs or 6.6ft-lbs
23n-m = 203.5in-lbs or 17ft-lbs

When I did my V8 waterpump, torque was about the same but they definitely were snugged up really well and have no additional movement when I rechecked them as a 2nd pass.
 
All fixed!

There were a few issues.

1. Sub-par, generic waterpump gasket. The OEM has a metal, layered gasket with a bevel that mashes down to create the seal. The gasket that came with the pump had a flat layered gasket with rubber/plastic.

2. My torque on the 12mm bolts must not have been enough, or I didn't go back over the bolts enough times with the torque.

The failure was created from incorrectly torqued bolts alloweing the heat/steam pressure to push the rubber gasket material away from the mating surfaces.

I'm 41 and still learning lessons from saving $10 on a generic gasket and paying down the road.
 
All fixed!

There were a few issues.

1. Sub-par, generic waterpump gasket. The OEM has a metal, layered gasket with a bevel that mashes down to create the seal. The gasket that came with the pump had a flat layered gasket with rubber/plastic.

2. My torque on the 12mm bolts must not have been enough, or I didn't go back over the bolts enough times with the torque.

The failure was created from incorrectly torqued bolts alloweing the heat/steam pressure to push the rubber gasket material away from the mating surfaces.

I'm 41 and still learning lessons from saving $10 on a generic gasket and paying down the road.

Good outcome, and lesson learned on cheap parts. Can't beat the multi-layer steel gasket that Toyota/Aisin use, and torquing the bolts incrementally to spec in symmetric pattern as AuSeeker described...just a figure 8 from inner to outer bolts.
 

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