Weak Plastic Points on 3rd Gen and a SOLUTION!

[BamaDrewski]

Okay, so I am assuming a lot of us have encountered these "weak plastic points" at one time or another on our rigs. Specifically;

1. The key/cylinder area in the rear tailgate license plate fascia....(always seems to crack and get loose around the cylinder area....thin plastic holding the cylinder in place...

2. The front "clip holder" towards the front of each front door....right where the pressed wood meets the plastic...(it has a raised "horseshoe" looking piece of plastic to hold in a door retainer clip)

I have battled these darn things for too long. I got some JB WELD EPOXY and slathered it on like whip cream on a stripper.....(LOL)...just kidding.....

Bottom line, once the epoxy cures, it HOLDS!!!!

 

[JZiggy]

Drewski, that is great to know the JB weld sticks to these plastic parts!

Most of our internal plastic bits and panels are made of polyethylene or polypropylene. You'll see them marked "PE/PP". These are called polyolefins and are very low surface energy and chemically inert to stuff just don't stick to them.

I found that Loctite has a glue specifically designed for olefins and it works really well. It has a primer you apply and then some glue very similar to super glue. I applied a small amount to some broken tabs and stuff and it held very very well.

Loctite Plastics Bonding System from Loctite Adhesives

 

[octanejunkie]

Okay, so I am assuming a lot of us have encountered these "weak plastic points" at one time or another on our rigs.

Aside from the 2 you mention, anything around the center console bezel clips are way brittle and easy to break (especially on limited wood-grain models) as well as the AC vents

The key/cylinder area in the rear tailgate license plate fascia....(always seems to crack and get loose around the cylinder area....thin plastic holding the cylinder in place...

I've done 2 rear bezels with 6-minute JB Weld KwikWeld epoxy. keeping the broken plastic bolted in place on the latch or cylinder I glue them down and hold them in place till they start to set. Once the first application of epoxy dries/cures (1-2 days) I glue it again and reinforce around the area and add glue and material like SS mesh, then let it dry/cure again. I have found both the latch and key cylinders fastener tabs are so tiny it's a joke - bad design, should have been solid lugs.

Edit: JB Weld KwikWeld epoxy

Added pics. Ready for second, reinforcing coat.

 

[BamaDrewski]

Drewski, that is great to know the JB weld sticks to these plastic parts!

Most of our internal plastic bits and panels are made of polyethylene or polypropylene. You'll see them marked "PE/PP". These are called polyolefins and are very low surface energy and chemically inert to stuff just don't stick to them.

I found that Loctite has a glue specifically designed for olefins and it works really well. It has a primer you apply and then some glue very similar to super glue. I applied a small amount to some broken tabs and stuff and it held very very well.

Loctite Plastics Bonding System from Loctite Adhesives

Hey man. This is GREAT INFORMATION to have. I never knew about the "PE/PP" element of the door panels. Definitely gonna order the stuff you recommended. THANKS!

 

[BamaDrewski]

Hey man. This is GREAT INFORMATION to have. I never knew about the "PE/PP" element of the door panels. Definitely gonna order the stuff you recommended. THANKS!

I need to make a correction. The stuff I used is called JB WELD "PLASTIC BONDER" - not the typical JB WELD.....sorry folks...

 

[JZiggy]

I need to make a correction. The stuff I used is called JB WELD "PLASTIC BONDER" - not the typical JB WELD.....sorry folks...

Ah, now it makes more sense. It’s got to be some special sauce to bite into plastics like PE or PP. ABS or PA (nylon) are also common and most glues will grab those easily.

 

[BamaDrewski]

Ah, now it makes more sense. It’s got to be some special sauce to bite into plastics like PE or PP. ABS or PA (nylon) are also common and most glues will grab those easily.

Certainly did not mean to mislead anyone. JB makes lots of products and this was the one I picked at Wally World. Seems to hold great once it is cured but I did "scuff up" the mating surfaces (as recommended) to make sure it "STUCK"

 

[4Runner4Leon]

A question to the plastics experts out there - I recently bought J-B Weld 50132 PlasticWeld Quick-Setting Epoxy, how does it compare to the J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive ?

 

[TonyB66]

Okay, so I am assuming a lot of us have encountered these "weak plastic points" at one time or another on our rigs. Specifically;

1. The key/cylinder area in the rear tailgate license plate fascia....(always seems to crack and get loose around the cylinder area....thin plastic holding the cylinder in place...

2. The front "clip holder" towards the front of each front door....right where the pressed wood meets the plastic...(it has a raised "horseshoe" looking piece of plastic to hold in a door retainer clip)

I have battled these darn things for too long. I got some JB WELD EPOXY and slathered it on like whip cream on a stripper.....(LOL)...just kidding.....

Bottom line, once the epoxy cures, it HOLDS!!!!

For #2, might you mean these?:

If so, a resounding YES. Have held for me, several months, including panel removal too, which shocked me somewhat...

 

[nobb]

For #2, might you mean these?:

If so, a resounding YES. Have held for me, several months, including panel removal too, which shocked me somewhat...

OH! I have definitely had this problem with my door clips as well. JB weld is not strong enough because there's quite a bit of force on these clips. The best solution with these is to use the smallest drill bit and drill around the broken area such that you can use thin wire to "stitch" the two plastic pieces back together. Add JB weld on top of the wire stitches.

 

[TonyB66]

OH! I have definitely had this problem with my door clips as well. JB weld is not strong enough because there's quite a bit of force on these clips. The best solution with these is to use the smallest drill bit and drill around the broken area such that you can use thin wire to "stitch" the two plastic pieces back together. Add JB weld on top of the wire stitches.

Well, it did the trick for me on both door panels, including one that was removed afterwards (speaker install). I like your idea though. I'd even consider some fine screen mesh material, cut-to-size, over the JB Weld, then JB Weld over screen...

 

[4Runner4Leon]

There's always plastic welding, I found that to be very effective for numerous situations.

 

[Greyhome]

There's always plastic welding, I found that to be very effective for numerous situations.

Did this for my roof tail end cap. Still holding!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JZiggy]

Well, it did the trick for me on both door panels, including one that was removed afterwards (speaker install). I like your idea though. I'd even consider some fine screen mesh material, cut-to-size, over the JB Weld, then JB Weld over screen...

I had this clippy break off numerous times until it was held on by a thread of plastic. Tried superglue -- next time I took the door panel it busted. Tried JB weld slathered on thick AND given 24hr to set -- same result. Tried Loctite Plastic -- and it holds!!

 

[JZiggy]

A question to the plastics experts out there - I recently bought J-B Weld 50132 PlasticWeld Quick-Setting Epoxy, how does it compare to the J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive ?

https://www.jbweld.com/products/plastic-bonder-syringe

https://www.jbweld.com/products/plasticweld-syringe

Only the Plastic Bonder specifically calls out polypropylene / polyethylene

 

[Plastics guy]

The simple truth with P.P.'s and P.E.'s if you want a lasting bond a primer will need to be used. The primers allow for the adhesive your using to get a good bite. This is why [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] had good results using the plastic superglue with the included primer. I'm a Permabond guy myself and use there primer called "POP" .

With proper prep, primer and adhesive a strong long lasting bond can be achieved every time.

 

[Scramble]

Great thread but who actually uses a key on the rear hatch????:noidea:
I think I've used it less than a handful of times in 19 years & that was back in 99-04 when I was mountain biking a lot but the Fob opens the lock or window.

 

[Wedgy]

I use JB Weld also but sometimes need it to not run so I use a putty like Marinetex or Devcon 10241
Great for bedding actions and setting pillars too.


https://www.google.com/search?sourc....64.psy-ab..0.9.969...0j0i131k1.0.ITuckr2R09Y

 

[4Runner4Leon]

What about ABS parts (I've seen some interior pieces that have ABS stamped on them)? Do you go with the plumbing-type ABS cement, or with one of these epoxies?

 

[BamaDrewski]

The simple truth with P.P.'s and P.E.'s if you want a lasting bond a primer will need to be used. The primers allow for the adhesive your using to get a good bite. This is why [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] had good results using the plastic superglue with the included primer. I'm a Permabond guy myself and use there primer called "POP" .

With proper prep, primer and adhesive a strong long lasting bond can be achieved every time.

In using the JB Weld for plastic, I did take a wire wheel on the end of a dremel and "roughed up" the mating surfaces of the plastic parts I was joining. For now it seems to work but I have to agree, the primer and solvent approach sounds more effective.