Weird Sound.. Can You Diagnose?

[MENTION=56044]downpour11[/MENTION] & [MENTION=44978]kball[/MENTION]: You guys made me feel better about those links. I was hoping no one said, "Only go OEM, and do the $400 one." My wallet thanks you too.

Ok, so either the Koyo, Denso... Sounds like any Japanese manufacturing or of the liking. This is sort of, use any radiator that fits and has a good reputation?

Also, does anyone know a general rule-of-thumb for what mileage radiators go out on us?
I currently have around 121,000 miles on the dash.

How does everyone feel about "Ready-Rad." I can get one as soon as today, at a local auto parts store.
Nevermind, I'm going to purchase a Koyo. I have searched the forums and it seems they are ideal. Should I also do the trans cooler?
 
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There is no usual for radiator failure. I've heard of milkshakes before 100K and no problems with 300K so..?? It's a gamble everyone plays. For as cheap and easy to replace as they are I'd replace the rad and upper and lower hoses every 100K just as maintenance.

I'm sure the Koyo or Denso are equal to OEM if not actual OEM (not sure who made the orig rad's for Toyota)
 
There is no usual for radiator failure. I've heard of milkshakes before 100K and no problems with 300K so..?? It's a gamble everyone plays. For as cheap and easy to replace as they are I'd replace the rad and upper and lower hoses every 100K just as maintenance.

I'm sure the Koyo or Denso are equal to OEM if not actual OEM (not sure who made the orig rad's for Toyota)

I've also heard replacement of radiator cap and thermostat with fresh 50/50 coolant is recommended. Is there another thermostat or is it talking about the thermostat in my water pump? Because I changed that out about 2 weeks ago.
And I have fresh Prestone red coolant. Should I re-use it or go to my dealership and get OEM coolant?
 
Yes if the cap is original replace it. As far as coolant, well you'll get lots of arguing about that one. Put in what you want is all I'll say. There's just the one thermo so you're fine with that.
 
Yes if the cap is original replace it. As far as coolant, well you'll get lots of arguing about that one. Put in what you want is all I'll say. There's just the one thermo so you're fine with that.

Sorry for all of the questions kball, but do you know if most replacement radiators come with a cap? I know the OEM radiator assembly comes with the cap.
 
I don't see how your waterpump could have affected that seal. It's a separate system within the radiator. Pure coincidence is my guess. This is why so many are paranoid about the milkshake issue. You just never know until it's too late.
 
I don't see how your waterpump could have affected that seal. It's a separate system within the radiator. Pure coincidence is my guess. This is why so many are paranoid about the milkshake issue. You just never know until it's too late.

No, your spot on. I feel dumb now, I was thinking coolant, not ATF. Yes, no link to the issues. But I am sure my radiator is on its way out the door.
 
I know you said you didn't think the squeal is coming from the belts. But with that ATF all over the front of the engine, I'd be surprised if some didn't get on the accessory drive belts, which would then cause belts to slip and squeal.
 
I know you said you didn't think the squeal is coming from the belts. But with that ATF all over the front of the engine, I'd be surprised if some didn't get on the accessory drive belts, which would then cause belts to slip and squeal.

True. And my belts are wet so that is plausible. The truck is just sitting at home right now. I will give it an underbody wash within the next day or two. The only thing is that I've had the hood open before and have heard it coming from inside the firewall. I have had my head in the bay and it happen and it sounds like its coming from within my vehicle, on the drivers side, but being inside my vehicle, it sounds like its coming from outside, behind my steering column. So, I can only assume its in the dash.

My last question, or one of them:

So, I want to get my truck back on the road ASAP. So, I will provide a few radiators and let me know which one, or if I shouldn't go with any of them. (I have heard it takes www.go-part.com around 2 weeks to send out the radiator. I just need it quicker than that) Thanks:

1) Advance Auto - "Ready Rad" Radiator -- $141.99 + Promo Code(A124) which is - ($40.00) so, $101.99
Buy Ready-Rad Radiator 431402 at Advance Auto Parts

2) NAPA Auto - "NAPA Radiators" Radiator - $154.18 + Online 10% off, which is - ($15.42) so, $138.76
NAPA AUTO PARTS

3) Pepboys - "Spectra Premium" Radiator - $136.99 with no promo codes.
So, $136.99 with tax.
Spectra Premium Radiator | Product Details | Pep Boys

NOTE: All 3 of these do not come with a radiator cap, all are aluminum cores with plastic tanks. All are OE replacements and have tranny coolers. All of them are also in stock and can be picked up today, NAPA being about 5 minutes away, Pepboys being 10 minutes away, and I have an Advance Auto at my neighborhood entrance. So I could walk to Advance.
 
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I vote for the cheapest one. They are probably all made by the same company anyway...

Haha, that is why I am wondering what I should do. I have heard good and bad things about "Ready Rad." I just want something reliable and that will live for at least 100,000 miles.

I mean, this is tempting!: (I added a 10% off Promo Code, "TENOFF" and it went from $154 to $129.)
dfgdfgdfg_zps41d0ca6e.png~original
 
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True. And my belts are wet so that is plausible. The truck is just sitting at home right now. I will give it an underbody wash within the next day or two. The only thing is that I've had the hood open before and have heard it coming from inside the firewall. I have had my head in the bay and it happen and it sounds like its coming from within my vehicle, on the drivers side, but being inside my vehicle, it sounds like its coming from outside, behind my steering column. So, I can only assume its in the dash.

Without being there to hear the noise, it's just a guessing game for any of us to diagnose. I'd suggest taking it to a competent Mechanic, that has experience in diagnosing NVH problems.

After you fix your leak, I'd suggest replacing the accessory drive belts, since being oil soaked will weaken them prematurely, in addition to causing them to slip and squeal. While you have the belts off, I'd clean all of the pulleys with brake clean, to remove any traces of oil.
 
So, I want to get my truck back on the road ASAP. So, I will provide a few radiators and let me know which one, or if I shouldn't go with any of them. (I have heard it takes Discount Auto Parts, Tail Lights, Head Lights, Fog Lights, Radiators, Car Mirrors around 2 weeks to send out the radiator. I just need it quicker than that)

Go to amazon and buy a Koyo or TYC radiator (pretty sure they're the same thing) and have it shipped 2-day or something. It is only $111 for the rad and these are the ones everyone has the best luck with - I've seen lots of guys on here try the other rads and end up replacing them w/in 6 months.
 
Without being there to hear the noise, it's just a guessing game for any of us to diagnose. I'd suggest taking it to a competent Mechanic, that has experience in diagnosing NVH problems.

After you fix your leak, I'd suggest replacing the accessory drive belts, since being oil soaked will weaken them prematurely, in addition to causing them to slip and squeal. While you have the belts off, I'd clean all of the pulleys with brake clean, to remove any traces of oil.

I replaced all of my accessory belt about 2 weeks ago. They were not soaked, but had some on them. I hosed my engine bay down with degreaser this morning and havent had any belt squeel at all, even while the issue was occurring.

Go to amazon and buy a Koyo or TYC radiator (pretty sure they're the same thing) and have it shipped 2-day or something. It is only $111 for the rad and these are the ones everyone has the best luck with - I've seen lots of guys on here try the other rads and end up replacing them w/in 6 months.

I am going to go with a Koyo.
 

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