Weird starter/battery issues after wheeling

xxaarraa

New member
By guys,

I'm researching this and digging up old threads but would appreciate any advice.

A few weeks ago I went wheeling and went through a fairly deep water crossing. Water was level with or over the hood for a few minutes. Crossed fine, truck runs fine since then (500 miles) and never misfired or behaved oddly. Its an 08 v6 with 70k miles, new battery 18 months ago.

* Here's the problem: since then, when I start it first thing in the morning 2-3 days a week (truck is not my daily), the starter is acting weird.

* I turn the key, lights come on and all the console lights work but there is no crank. No clicking or cranking.

*I turn it off and try again and it will start and run fine. Some days it will play dead for a couple tries befor firing up.

*Never does it rest of day and always fires up first time when I get in after work or go to the shops.

*I live in new england and the mornings have been 35-45 degrees recently.

Any thoughts on what it could be? I have a full bumper-bumper warranty but before I take it in, I'd hope to solve it myself with your help.
 
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I would start by taking a look at the battery terminals - check for tightness and corrosion. Then move down to the starter. Check the connections. Make sure they are tight and there is no obvious corrosion, junk, whatnot on the terminals. You may have gotten water into the solenoid causing it to operate sporadically.
 
I would start by taking a look at the battery terminals - check for tightness and corrosion. Then move down to the starter. Check the connections. Make sure they are tight and there is no obvious corrosion, junk, whatnot on the terminals. You may have gotten water into the solenoid causing it to operate sporadically.

Thanks for the tip. I thought the starter was hard to get to? Where is it located on the 4th gen?
 
Hey guys,

I cleaned out the battery terminals and applied a coat of di-electric grease on it. Things were fine for a few days but this morning, it acted up again. It is a chilly 28 degrees and wet here today, so that may be what's causing the starter issue I am having.

Anyone got any ideas before I take it in to Toyota? Much appreciated guys, thanks a lot.
 
Just gonna throw this out there: Have you had your battery tested? If you came here and told me your symptoms without telling us the wheeling bit, I would say it sounds like your battery is weak. Usually the change from summer to fall/winter will show a weak battery.

You mention it has been cold recently and your battery is acting up, so just for the fun of it, drive to your nearest autozone or other car place and have them check your battery. Just had my original (2004) battery finally die on me. Worked great all summer and then, boom... cold snap and finally gave up the ghost.

I found out with mine that our 4unners have a starter auto hold feature and to protect this, and under voltage protection. This means that you don't always get the slow turn over that on an older car would let you know the battery is weak. The runner simply won't attempt to engage to starter if the voltage is below what it considers minimum required.

Had very similar symptoms as you had. Went to turn car, nothing. No click, no slow struggled starter turn. It was my batter. When I put a multimeter on it, I was reading only 11.4 volts, so clearly my truck read it as too weak to try.
 
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Just gonna throw this out there: Have you had your battery tested? If you came here and told me your symptoms without telling us the wheeling bit, I would say it sounds like your battery is weak. Usually the change from summer to fall/winter will show a weak battery.

You mention it has been cold recently and your battery is acting up, so just for the fun of it, drive to your nearest autozone or other car place and have them check your battery. Just had my original (2004) battery finally die on me. Worked great all summer and then, boom... cold snap and finally gave up the ghost.

I found out with mine that our 4unners have a starter auto hold feature and to protect this, and under voltage protection. This means that you don't always get the slow turn over that on an older car would let you know the battery is weak. The runner simply won't attempt to engage to starter if the voltage is below what it considers minimum required.

Had very similar symptoms as you had. Went to turn car, nothing. No click, no slow struggled starter turn. It was my batter. When I put a multimeter on it, I was reading only 11.4 volts, so clearly my truck read it as too weak to try.

Great point, I will check the battery. I can just stick a multimeter on the terminals, as I have one. What should it read with the engine off and with the engine running? I want to say at least 12V with the engine off, but 13-14 with engine running?

Does that sound right?
 
Car on won't help. The meter will be reading from the alternator. Should be 13 to 14 volts. Off, if it reads below 12.4, I would be worried. What you really want to know is amps. A weak battery can still push the min voltage, but not the required amps.

The battery testers at AutoZone can tell you.
 
Car on won't help. The meter will be reading from the alternator. Should be 13 to 14 volts. Off, if it reads below 12.4, I would be worried. What you really want to know is amps. A weak battery can still push the min voltage, but not the required amps.

The battery testers at AutoZone can tell you.

Hey guys, I had the battery tested at autozone and it came out fine. 12.85 volts when off, the guy said amps was also fine and alternator test passed with engine on.

I'm back to doubting the starter. On the v6, where is it located so that I can take a look and clean the contacts?
 
I'd say you probably got water inside the starter and corroded the contacts. I'd also check all your grounds to make sure they are not corroded or loose.
 
I'd say you probably got water inside the starter and corroded the contacts..


Yeah, I get that.

Can anyone point to where the starter is located on the V6 so I can see if I can clean out the contacts or do a visual inspection at least? All the threads I dig up seem to be for the V8s.

Good tip on checking the grounds, I will do that.
 
Not looking an manual, but the starter is usually on a front/back oriented rear wheel drive engine located on the side, near the wheel well facing front. It will be a circular tubes shaped part. It will have a large wiring coming into it.

It can be a pain to get to. Japanese auto makers really pack the parts in.
 
OK guys, here is an update and a new puzzle.

Original problen: I kept having the intermittent starter not firing at all (no cranking) at random times. Two different autozones tested and confirmed battery and alternator were good.

I then removed the 'constant 12v' relay that my hid kit came with. It was connected directly to the battery and supposedly stabilizes the voltage sent to the ignitors. The relay never really did its job and looked like it was starting to show wear/rust, so off it went. I threw in brand new ballasts and igniters for both sides just because I had them (20k miles since the kit was installed).

A few weeks went by and the starting problem never happened. I thought, OK, maybe removing the relay eliminated any parasitic drain at starting time and the gremlin is gone.

I then installed dual wireless charging pads (4.2 amp draw) spliced into the cigarette lighter socket. I also have LED DRLs off of the fuse box that come on with ignition switch in on position (always had them)

Yesterday the started gremlin resurfaced.

My gut says its all the switched power draw (LEDs and the phone/tablet charging pads) are somehow causing a bad voltage just at the moment of firing up the car causing the starter to cut out. just to clarify, never once in all the troubles has the car cranked and not started. Its always start right up or play dead when I turn the key.

Anyone got any ideas or theories?
 

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