Went and pooched it again...

[DaGimp]

Not the first owner, 30k kms of the 150k is mine. Bought it as a pavement princess from Vancouver that was dealership serviced all its life. So had all the proper maintenance records that looked good, but who knows. Oil didn't look milky and was at the right level. I'm rough on her but I use Mobile 1 Synthetic and have done 4 changes since I've had her, was about due for another one once the weather warmed up a bit.

Was your engine broken in with synthetic oil? Changing the oil type after the break in period can cause problems itself. Some will tell you modern engine dont have/need a break in period. I'm tempted to agree with them, but I havent met any mechanic that will tell you to switch after the engine is broken in.

Would it be possible to capture the noise in a audio file?

 

[NorthernRyan]

I was Dino oil before. When I read up on switching the biggest downside potential I saw was swollen seals may shrink down and allow leaks. Watched for that but it never happened. I drive in weather from minus 50 to plus 30 up here, so I figured the decrease in viscosity variability given the weather would help the engine more than harm.
If Toyota tells me I can run it without doing more damage I'll record it so you guys know what it sounds like.

 

[2014 Warthog]

Ouch

Well just to throw out another random possibility, I had then entire engine computer burn out in a car once and the engine would BARELY run. They are supposed to fail in such a way that the engine can still run more or less normally but I've seen it can be pretty bad. If the timing were thrown WAY off for example.

Fingers crossed for least expensive fix!

 

[Stuck CAPS]

Talk to [MENTION=65653]aha2988[/MENTION]. He hydro locked his engine almost 2 years ago. Compare symptoms, see exactly what he did to fix.

And hey, if all else fails, You can send that drivetrain my way. I'd like a nice t-Case and front diff

 

[aha2988]

Talk to [MENTION=65653]aha2988[/MENTION]. He hydro locked his engine almost 2 years ago. Compare symptoms, see exactly what he did to fix.

And hey, if all else fails, You can send that drivetrain my way. I'd like a nice t-Case and front diff

Never hydrolocked mine, just had enough mud pack in the timing belt housing that when it all dried on the crankshaft timing pully it caused the t belt to jump a few teeth durring startup a few days after playing. Replaced timing belt everything was fine again. OP claims his is a v6 not sure if the chains can jump teeth as well or not.

 

[NorthernRyan]

Well news is in... 1 hour $200 later survey says.

#5 rod bearing went. They said I need a new engine. 3700 for new used engine 4400 for the swap. I would tow it to edmonton though to not pay the 200/hr labour.

I'm sitting here bummed out trying to decide if it's entirely my fault. I was running her hard when it went, don't get me wrong. But I've maybe done 3 sessions of donuts since I've owned her. And it was 2 minutes of high revs then 15 minutes of moderate offroading. When offroading the engine usually isn't the one taking the beating. I've prolly only taken her out 20 times in 3 years...I don't know.

So which one of you is going to chime in and say that it's only a 2k rebuild really...

 

[aha2988]

Well news is in... 1 hour $200 later survey says.

#5 rod bearing went. They said I need a new engine. 3700 for new used engine 4400 for the swap. I would tow it to edmonton though to not pay the 200/hr labour.

I'm sitting here bummed out trying to decide if it's entirely my fault. I was running her hard when it went, don't get me wrong. But I've maybe done 3 sessions of donuts since I've owned her. And it was 2 minutes of high revs then 15 minutes of moderate offroading. When offroading the engine usually isn't the one taking the beating. I've prolly only taken her out 20 times in 3 years...I don't know.

So which one of you is going to chime in and say that it's only a 2k rebuild really...

ouch.. well to rebuild it sounds like you would need a crankshaft , a connecting rod bearing and possibly a new connecting rod depending on how damaged the current one is, and possibly some cylinder honing if the pistion was aloud to damage anything when the bearing went out. If the piston was somehow pushed through the top end yeah your best bet would be to go with another engine.

you can possibly find one wrecked at a junk yard and do the work yourself to save money. its possible it can be done for cheaper than 4400 for sure.

 

[marc_l71]

Well sorry to hear of the bad news, But with bearing to go out it was probably due at any time even at low or high RPM's.... no sensors on those kinds of things. If you were closer and had a few cases of brewers I'm sure we would help ya!!!

 

[Kmvreter]

... #5 rod bearing went. They said I need a new engine...

Sorry to hear this.

Thought I would chime in to make sure you get a correct engine match when you swap it. There have been threads about swaps gone wrong due to engine incompatability, even when a shop did one. Something about the type of cam sensors (2 wire vs 3 wire?) Search for threads on this. Not sure what year your V6 is but not all 1GR-FE's are the same.

 

[DC runner]

I had a bearing go out on any older runner (3.0 engine) and it died due to oil starvation. That engine had been bought from a PO who did not care for it and there was some serious sludge buildup, which lead to a horrid PSI for the oil system.

My thoughts are you starved that bearing for a split second too long. High RPM, maybe some sludge or a bit low on oil and bam.

I don't redline, ever. It does horrid things. Sorry to hear this happened.

 

[Code2]

dam that sucks

Id pony up the money far cheaper then a new one especially if you still have a loan on it

i guess you wont be doing donuts anymore in a vehicle meant for off roading and towing

 

[DiskDoctr]

i guess you wont be doing donuts anymore in a vehicle meant for off roading and towing

My buddy had a 4.3l vortec with a similar problem last spring. We call him "dad" (he only has me by a few years) and I can assure you he was never horsing around with it.

Hi G-force maneuvers may have hastened the failure, but it would have likely happened in the near future regardless.

 

[Code2]

My buddy had a 4.3l vortec with a similar problem last spring. We call him "dad" (he only has me by a few years) and I can assure you he was never horsing around with it.

Hi G-force maneuvers may have hastened the failure, but it would have likely happened in the near future regardless.

Cool story bro. But telling me you can assure someone isn't doing something is like telling me the kid with no history of violence wouldn't shoot a school up. my job has educated me in the aspect of you never know who anyone is even those close friends have skeletons.


But your second comment i agree most likely was starved of oil

 

[hearno]

I dont think 4runners have "Rods", dont they have a OHC and timing chain?

Pushrods.. no. Connecting rods? Yes. Absolutely.

 

[DiskDoctr]

But your second comment i agree most likely was starved of oil

I'm sure enough to bet my runner on it

But I also agree with your comment. Yes, it sure Sucks that Northern Ryan's ride puked
[MENTION=56539]NorthernRyan[/MENTION] We all feel for you, bro.

 

[Cjtapp]

Anybody else click on this thread cause they didn't know wtf pooched meant...? Sorry to hear about the engine, just had a similar event with my 3rd gen last summer, minus the doughnut part. Good luck to yah, live and learn!

 

[Code2]

Anybody else click on this thread cause they didn't know wtf pooched meant...? Sorry to hear about the engine, just had a similar event with my 3rd gen last summer, minus the doughnut part. Good luck to yah, live and learn!

LOL i did thought it was slang for raped in prison :nerd:

 

[Red]

I was just curious to see what he did this time, I remembered reading a different thread where he broke down in the middle of no where and was worried the locals would ravage his runner over night. (pretty sure its the same 4runner)

anyways, that's too bad but you have to expect this kind of thing when you bag the shit out of your vehicle. its a hard lesson to learn.

Unless you can find it way cheaper, I don't think I'd drop 9k on it, I'd check junk yards but in our area its pretty slim pickings, not many 4th gens out there. Then find a cheaper place to get the swap done, you're still going to be looking at some serious $$ though.

you could try asking for advice on CT4wd.com, its local so guys might have some better suggestions or maybe someone on there can help you out.

 

[black4vcobra]

TS, what oil were you running? Unless you run the engine low on oil, a quality oil should prevent rod bearings from getting chewed up.

 

[DC runner]

I think this boils down to a situation where you have a younger driver (not sure, but sounds late teens/early 20's) who is on their first or second car and probably drove it very hard, clearly was negligent with it at times in terms of treatment. This negligence could well have applied to maintenance as well. So, it is very easy to see how an engine that was driven hard, perhaps not given the proper maintenance it needed, would blow a bearing when pushed hard.

Red line is called red line because it is the point at which a vehicle's engine is not designed to operate at. They don't come with a statement saying " 5 minutes of red line is OK, but no more". The entire point for a vehicle clearly indicating where red line is, is as a clear line to not go beyond. While it is true most vehicles will operate within this zone for some time, no manufacturer will give you a time it can. The reality is, any amount of time operating at red line is asking for trouble.