What could possibly be causing my keyless entry to barely work?

[transistor]

I have a 2017 with 27k miles. I was on a roadtrip recently and all of a sudden my keyfob wouldn't lock/unlock the doors unless I was within 5 feet of the vehicle. I thought my battery must be dying, so I replaced the battery and it didn't make any difference. When I got home, I tried the other keyfob that came with vehicle and it had the same issue.

Before the trip I hardwired my refrigerator to my new Odyssey group 34 battery and figured that could be the only other possibly source of the problem. But I disconnected the fridge and it didn't help...

Any ideas?

 

[Jhalko]

By random chance... check your battery terminals to ensure you have a solid ground. Sometimes if one is loose it can cause weird things to happen.

 

[bnorton00]

I have a 2017 with 27k miles. I was on a roadtrip recently and all of a sudden my keyfob wouldn't lock/unlock the doors unless I was within 5 feet of the vehicle. I thought my battery must be dying, so I replaced the battery and it didn't make any difference. When I got home, I tried the other keyfob that came with vehicle and it had the same issue.

Before the trip I hardwired my refrigerator to my new Odyssey group 34 battery and figured that could be the only other possibly source of the problem. But I disconnected the fridge and it didn't help...

Any ideas?

Is your fridge on the passenger or driver's side? One of the receivers for the wireless keyfobs is in the rear area on the driver side of the vehicle. The fridges can cause interference. I would try a quick test by shielding the the compressor side of the fridge to see if that does the trick.

 

[transistor]

Is your fridge on the passenger or driver's side? One of the receivers for the wireless keyfobs is in the rear area on the driver side of the vehicle. The fridges can cause interference. I would try a quick test by shielding the the compressor side of the fridge to see if that does the trick.

That's probably it... It's on the driver's side in the rear and I also just installed some thick drawers back there. What would you recommend shielding the compressor with? Would it not also shield the signal coming into the receiver?

 

[rigtec]

"...I have a 2017 with 27k miles. I was on a roadtrip recently and all of a sudden my keyfob wouldn't lock/unlock the doors unless I was within 5 feet of the vehicle. I thought my battery must be dying, so I replaced the battery and it didn't make any difference..."

Hi transistor,

Before you make any changes to your truck's mods, you have an ECU that does control your Security system, Keyless entry system, Power windows, Power doorlocks...etc! Every so often, the master ECU (Main body ECU compu network) will behave much like a Windows laptop when running out of free storage/RAM and will malfunction as a result!

So it too needs an occasional RE-BOOT AKA a master RESET! This restores the ECU's 'factory settings'; which sometimes are changed/corrupted because of all of the Temporary Files it stores e.g., history logs, error codes, travel data (MPG and learned operator behaviors), to name a few!

Since the Main body ECU controls about 26 or 27 other ecu's, I can't tell you which fuse to pull, but you can just disconnect the NEG battery cable and leave it disconnected for a very minimum time period of four hours...over-night would be better to be sure that ALL of the ecu modules are cleared of all corrupt software/firmware!

The only consequence is that, you'll lose all of your preset radio stations and you'll also need to do a Circle Calibration to reset the compass; but it's pretty simple to do... the 4R manual shows you just how to do this; I've done it plenty of times after having the battery disconnected while installing some electrical equipment!

I'm pretty sure that this is what's causing the trouble; the good thing is... you don't need to take it in to the dealership to correct it! Please be sure to let us know how you made out because if that was it, you just saved another one of our members from going back to the dealership! 'Best to you' transistor!

rig, Cheers

 

[bnorton00]

That's probably it... It's on the driver's side in the rear and I also just installed some thick drawers back there. What would you recommend shielding the compressor with? Would it not also shield the signal coming into the receiver?

If this is indeed it, a couple layers of aluminum foil around the compressor side would work. Here's another thread that highlights the same problem.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...g-fridge-power-kills-remote-door-locks-2.html

 

[e60ral]

in addition to the person who had interference from their fridge, there was also at least one user here who had a bad receiver or antenna that i think got replaced under warranty.

(i also think i remember someone just having a bad connection but i may be confusing that with some of the people who have had problems with their sat radio antenna)

you're under warranty, ask the dealer

 

[transistor]

Hi transistor,

Before you make any changes to your truck's mods, you have an ECU that does control your Security system, Keyless entry system, Power windows, Power doorlocks...etc! Every so often, the master ECU (Main body ECU compu network) will behave much like a Windows laptop when running out of free storage/RAM and will malfunction as a result!

So it too needs an occasional RE-BOOT AKA a master RESET! This restores the ECU's 'factory settings'; which sometimes are changed/corrupted because of all of the Temporary Files it stores e.g., history logs, error codes, travel data (MPG and learned operator behaviors), to name a few!

Since the Main body ECU controls about 26 or 27 other ecu's, I can't tell you which fuse to pull, but you can just disconnect the NEG battery cable and leave it disconnected for a very minimum time period of four hours...over-night would be better to be sure that ALL of the ecu modules are cleared of all corrupt software/firmware!

The only consequence is that, you'll lose all of your preset radio stations and you'll also need to do a Circle Calibration to reset the compass; but it's pretty simple to do... the 4R manual shows you just how to do this; I've done it plenty of times after having the battery disconnected while installing some electrical equipment!

I'm pretty sure that this is what's causing the trouble; the good thing is... you don't need to take it in to the dealership to correct it! Please be sure to let us know how you made out because if that was it, you just saved another one of our members from going back to the dealership! 'Best to you' transistor!

rig, Cheers

I appreciate the info! I'll give that a shot tonight and report back.

 

[transistor]

If this is indeed it, a couple layers of aluminum foil around the compressor side would work. Here's another thread that highlights the same problem.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...g-fridge-power-kills-remote-door-locks-2.html

That's the same fridge as I have, so I'm guessing that's the source of the problem. I might as well get that fridge cover that he said helped. Thanks for the link!

 

[Nad45]

That's probably it... It's on the driver's side in the rear and I also just installed some thick drawers back there. What would you recommend shielding the compressor with? Would it not also shield the signal coming into the receiver?

I don’t think it’s your fridge or anything else aftermarket in the car causing this. I have 2017 as well and have no aftermarket things inside it and have the exact same key fob issues.

I have to be very close or actually point the fob at the car in order to get it work.

Changing out the battery didn’t do anything.

I think resetting the ECU is my next step.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rigtec]

I don’t think it’s your fridge or anything else aftermarket in the car causing this. I have 2017 as well and have no aftermarket things inside it and have the exact same key fob issues.

I have to be very close or actually point the fob at the car in order to get it work.

Changing out the battery didn’t do anything.

I think resetting the ECU is my next step.

Hi Nad45,

I think you're correct in your approach. If EMF (electro-magnetic field) were the cause, then almost everyone who has electrical modifications e.g., High output audio power amplifiers, Air Compressors, multiple lighting systems, refrigs'...etc, there'd be a lot more of us having the same issues with the remote entry systems!

I personally have multiple high power subwoofer amps, and a couple of aftermarket lighting systems, but never had a negative effect on any other factory electronic equipment; and my alternator is twice the size of the stock 130A unit! I'm wishing you all (having Key fob issues) the very best,

rig, :cheers:

 

[ScarfaceT4R]

Probably those cheap motors acting up that Toyota puts inside of the actuators in the doors.. Pain in the butt