What Cylinder Is Leaking

reelamin

reelamin

New member
With help from members I determined my 96 3.4/250k has a head gasket leak. I am going to try "Blue Devil" mechanic in a can. Talking to them they suggest I leave the spark plug out of the bad cylinder so it allows the most penetration instead of being pushed out. I pulled all my plugs, and I really can not tell what one is bad. Please help me out if you can. I did an overview and then took pictures from both directions. The plugs with the dots next to them are the drivers side. I then rotated the plugs 180 degrees and took the same pics.

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#1
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#1 opposite Side
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180 #1
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180 #2
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reelamin said:
With help from members I determined my 96 3.4/250k has a head gasket leak. I am going to try "Blue Devil" mechanic in a can. Talking to them they suggest I leave the spark plug out of the bad cylinder so it allows the most penetration instead of being pushed out. I pulled all my plugs, and I really can not tell what one is bad. Please help me out if you can. I did an overview and then took pictures from both directions. The plugs with the dots next to them are the drivers side. I then rotated the plugs 180 degrees and took the same pics.

All Together
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#1
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#1 opposite Side
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180 #1
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180 #2
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Click to expand...

What are the symptoms? Sometimes if you have a bad head gasket, it doesn't mean it's burning coolant.
 
reelamin said:
Here is the thread on what happened.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/229040-96-3-4-radiator-blew-up.html
Click to expand...

You might be chasing a ghost here.

These trucks depend heavily on a pressurized cooling system. I recently had my radiator pop as well... due to the fact it was over 200k miles old (very brown in color) and I replaced the radiator cap and o-ring with one that actually worked. First trip out after I replaced the cap with a working cap, the top tank split wide open. Heres a pic:
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah307/mckennar/20160717_123450_zps4do8zwxo.jpg

Installed new radiator, Toyota red coolant mix and I've been daily driving it for the past 6k miles without losing a drop of coolant from the radiator or the overflow.

Just throwing it out there, may not apply to your current situation. Good luck.
 
So you replaced the radiator already. Why not perform a pressure test on the cooling system to see if it holds pressure ? Or better yet a leakdown test on the cylinders. I get the fact you cannot rent tools but I don't know how reliable the exhaust gas test through the cooling system really is. If , in fact you had such a leak in the head gasket that caused the radiator to blow , it would be my opinion that it would be blowing out the tailpipe white ''smoke' and plug/s would show signs of fouling. None of the plugs appear to be any different from each other, and none look abnormal. From reading through other thread, I would have to agree that maybe you are overthinking it and you just had a radiator fail. New radiator / cap and keep an eye on it if you are unable to further diagnose. Jmo.
 
pauldub said:
Do a leak down test.
Click to expand...

I literally do not want to spend the money for the tools to do all these tests. I do not have the ability to rent tools. I have to buy them and to spend that kind of money for literally a one time "possibility" is hard. I went with the fluid test because it was reasonably cheap at $50.

"Over Thinking It"....that made me LMAO because I am an extreme over analyzer/option/possibility/what if FREAK!!

I realize I may be chasing a Ghost, but when I'm in the mountains I do not want to be walking miles to get cell service if I'm lucky! I got super lucky this time because we were only a few miles in and uphill. Had I gone another 2-3 miles it would be the exact opposite story. Not a big deal in the summer but when it's single digits....its an issue.

I will have a few buddies come over (bribed with beer after they look) and if they see the same thing I see (they look the same) I'll put them back in, Blue Devil it, and drive it. Worst case it blows another radiator or bypass the cap. Best case I'm driving it another year or so! I will let everyone know how it turns out. I really do appreciate the input and help!
 
This thread solidified my reasoning for preemptively replacing my radiator. I recently posted about lifespans of them and it was the general consensus that at 19yrs old just replace it before something happens. I, myself spend many miles well away from any help in the mountains and my wife regularly drives it also. I wish you good luck and hope you didn't take offense to my ' over thinking it' comment. Matt
 
Matt....I am still laughing and my wife is saying things like "If he only knew your crazy stupid ass". I LOVE IT because thats what I do every day and happily so!!

I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
 
Mark_BC said:
How do the salmon get past the dam?
Click to expand...

Contrary to popular belief they literally "fly" over the dams!!! Just as if it is not even there. They use it as a resting location!!! The issue with dams is the out-migration not the in-migration. Those fish will swim up a garden hose if that is where the water is. Going out is a totally different world. I sent you a PM....happy to have any discussion on reality v politics any day. NO!!!...not all the pro-fishing science is good....a lot is driven by politics/money.

Woah...I need another beer if we are going to talk fishing....should we start another thread....no I don't need sleep. I will be dead soon enough....so sleep can wait.
 
A.Wilson013 said:
If you pay shipping to and from I'll ship you my coolant pressure tester.

That's how I found my leaking cylinder
Click to expand...

hey man, without going and digging through your thread...

when you ran the coolant pressure test, did you have to spot-check every visible area on the radiator to isolate *away* from the radiator and focus on your head gasket?

I guess I'm asking... how can you differentiate between the two when the pressure test shows low.
 
amalik said:
hey man, without going and digging through your thread...

when you ran the coolant pressure test, did you have to spot-check every visible area on the radiator to isolate *away* from the radiator and focus on your head gasket?

I guess I'm asking... how can you differentiate between the two when the pressure test shows low.
Click to expand...

I am mentally beat and don't completely understand your question.

I suppose if my radiator were leaking (it was not) I would have seen it dripping coolant once I added pressure. Or, for that matter, dripping from ANY coolant leak I had.

I found my problem (after months of searching and passing compression tests) by hooking up the pressure tester overnight. After it sat all night it literally filled the problem cylinder with coolant.
 
mckennar said:
You might be chasing a ghost here.

These trucks depend heavily on a pressurized cooling system. I recently had my radiator pop as well... due to the fact it was over 200k miles old (very brown in color) and I replaced the radiator cap and o-ring with one that actually worked. First trip out after I replaced the cap with a working cap, the top tank split wide open. Heres a pic:
http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah307/mckennar/20160717_123450_zps4do8zwxo.jpg

Installed new radiator, Toyota red coolant mix and I've been daily driving it for the past 6k miles without losing a drop of coolant from the radiator or the overflow.

Just throwing it out there, may not apply to your current situation. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Same here, Radiator went out at 214k, im at 224k with a new radiator and running strong!
 
reelamin said:
Here is the thread on what happened.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/229040-96-3-4-radiator-blew-up.html
Click to expand...

I never heard of this Blue Devil product but watched a few videos. "Stop leak" products used for coolant leaks are really snake oil. This is supposed to fix a head gasket leak and the environment there is much more hostile. The coolant products can clog up a radiator....this is likely more aggressive. I wouldn't use it with a new radiator.

If you need to count on this truck, this is not the way to go. Replace the radiator/cap and keep a close eye on it. If you see bubbles in the coolant at the top of the radiator (cap off), then additional steps are needed to address head gasket.

Also, suggest that you not count on spark plug visual inspection to identify leaking cylinder. As others have said, cylinder compression/leak down tester is needed.

Buckaroo
 
reelamin said:
With help from members I determined my 96 3.4/250k has a head gasket leak. I am going to try "Blue Devil" mechanic in a can. Talking to them they suggest I leave the spark plug out of the bad cylinder so it allows the most penetration instead of being pushed out. I pulled all my plugs, and I really can not tell what one is bad. Please help me out if you can. I did an overview and then took pictures from both directions. The plugs with the dots next to them are the drivers side. I then rotated the plugs 180 degrees and took the same pics.

All Together
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#1
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#1 opposite Side
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180 #1
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180 #2
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Click to expand...
most time can't tell by spark plug if head gasket is blown,(if it's wet when you pull it out) sometimes you can peer down the plug hole and see if the piston head is clean, like steam clean. Block test fluid isn't terribly sensitive so if it turns even slightly than you have a bad head gasket and/or warped cylinder head. Block seal fluid might buy you six months, but whatever you use will end up having to be cleaned out of everything. The 5vz is a solid engine, but like all others it needs oil and coolant or it won't last long.
 
Buckaroo said:
I never heard of this Blue Devil product but watched a few videos. "Stop leak" products used for coolant leaks are really snake oil. This is supposed to fix a head gasket leak and the environment there is much more hostile. The coolant products can clog up a radiator....this is likely more aggressive. I wouldn't use it with a new radiator.

If you need to count on this truck, this is not the way to go. Replace the radiator/cap and keep a close eye on it. If you see bubbles in the coolant at the top of the radiator (cap off), then additional steps are needed to address head gasket.

Also, suggest that you not count on spark plug visual inspection to identify leaking cylinder. As others have said, cylinder compression/leak down tester is needed.

Buckaroo
Click to expand...

Buckaroo....I agree with you about 80 on the snake oil products. I have actually used some of the snake oils and had positive (not forever) results. Basically it's a money back guarantee long shot bet so I might as well take it. Sure fixing things the correct way is always best, but I have no intention of dumping 3k into a 3K rig. I will just buy a new (used) one and sell this one or even part it out.

I have some additional testing equipment coming the next couple of days. Will give it some more testing and see how it turns out.
 
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