what have I done?

SV_Dude said:
Did you still have a lack of power after you routed your vacuum lines per the diagram?

You still need to test all egr related equipment if you plan to keep it stock. If not, rip all that sh!t outta there and cap everything.

Also, when your engine started to fall on its face at the stop, did you get any new CEL codes? Double check to verify.
Click to expand...

"...Did you still have a lack of power after you routed your vacuum lines per the diagram?..."
--> actually... no. I mean, it's a yota 3.0... there's not much there to begin with, but it was actually responsive and held acceleration through the powerband.

"...You still need to test all egr related equipment if you plan to keep it stock. If not, rip all that sh!t outta there and cap everything..."
I'm still mulling this over... I spent a lot of money to make this sh!t work, I think by principle alone, I'm on a mission.. lol

"...Also, when your engine started to fall on its face at the stop, did you get any new CEL codes? Double check to verify...."
--> dammit, I left my paperclip at home to check.. didn't even think of that...
 
The fact that it ran smooth once you routed your vacuum lines properly pretty much rules out tps and timing. I usually suggest tps when something is throttle related because it's a common issue but timing is also a common issue when people tinker.

Let's recap. All vacuum lines are routed properly per the diagram, right? Your runner idles fine when cold and drives fine when warm right? Your only issue now is that when the engine is warm it doesn't want to idle?
 
SV_Dude said:
The fact that it ran smooth once you routed your vacuum lines properly pretty much rules out tps and timing. I usually suggest tps when something is throttle related because it's a common issue but timing is also a common issue when people tinker.

Let's recap. All vacuum lines are routed properly per the diagram, right? Your runner idles fine when cold and drives fine when warm right? Your only issue now is that when the engine is warm it doesn't want to idle?
Click to expand...


"...All vacuum lines are routed properly per the diagram, right? Your runner idles fine when cold and drives fine when warm right? Your only issue now is that when the engine is warm it doesn't want to idle?..."
--> You are correct sir. Just duplicated about 30 minutes ago. I went out to the truck during my lunch break, the engine had a chance to cool. It started right up (Reed Valve clacking away loudly) but..... the idle was smooth.

I then drove to the toyota dealership and had a chat with one of their lead techs... he told me that my reed valve in a 4WD didn't need to be connected, but that the vacuum line in the pass. fender was for my 4WD!!

anyway.... once the engine was hot from the drive over, idle dropped and staggered.....
 
madmanhiker said:
"...All vacuum lines are routed properly per the diagram, right? Your runner idles fine when cold and drives fine when warm right? Your only issue now is that when the engine is warm it doesn't want to idle?..."
--> You are correct sir. Just duplicated about 30 minutes ago. I went out to the truck during my lunch break, the engine had a chance to cool. It started right up (Reed Valve clacking away loudly) but..... the idle was smooth.

I then drove to the toyota dealership and had a chat with one of their lead techs... he told me that my reed valve in a 4WD didn't need to be connected, but that the vacuum line in the pass. fender was for my 4WD!!

anyway.... once the engine was hot from the drive over, idle dropped and staggered.....
Click to expand...

I have a hard time listening to other mechanics when they suggest something that differs from the FSM. Toyota designed these things and wrote the FSM. I am a helicopter mechanic by trade so I have learned to ALWAYS go by the book and it has never let me down. So, any advice that I may give will 99% of the time be by the book.

My advice stands as it did before. Test your EGR VSV (I'm not sure which vsv you replaced, egr or pair), you have a new egr valve but I would test it anyway and also test your egr vacuum modulator. If all of those test good then you have something boogered up in your lines or vacuum ports on the throttle body. Either way your engine isn't getting the air that the AFM is telling the ECU that it has when your engine is warn and idling (vacuum leak).
 
SV_Dude said:
I have a hard time listening to other mechanics when they suggest something that differs from the FSM. Toyota designed these things and wrote the FSM. I am a helicopter mechanic by trade so I have learned to ALWAYS go by the book and it has never let me down. So, any advice that I may give will 99% of the time be by the book.

My advice stands as it did before. Test your EGR VSV (I'm not sure which vsv you replaced, egr or pair), you have a new egr valve but I would test it anyway and also test your egr vacuum modulator. If all of those test good then you have something boogered up in your lines or vacuum ports on the throttle body. Either way your engine isn't getting the air that the AFM is telling the ECU that it has when your engine is warn and idling (vacuum leak).
Click to expand...

yep, I got it. I am willing to let the tech troubleshoot for no more than 2 hours ($200) to see what he may come up with. The truth is, I am out of options and he technically knows more than I do... but I agree with you at this point, I am thinking something may be boogered up in the metal lines leading to the TB. Something is clogged..........
 
Given that there are now no codes and it's running fine except when idling once warm, is there some reason you're not looking in the direction of the air flow meter and any leaks between there and the throttle body?

If there's a small leak or the sensor is a bit out (or coated, etc), it could throw off the air/fuel mixture once into a closed system when warm. If it's a small amount, it might just affect things at idle. If it's a larger amount, it will also affect overall power.

I had this on a 3000gt where the intercooler line popped off. That was a major leak, so it barely idled once warm while that was mucked up.
 
giro said:
Given that there are now no codes and it's running fine except when idling once warm, is there some reason you're not looking in the direction of the air flow meter and any leaks between there and the throttle body?

If there's a small leak or the sensor is a bit out (or coated, etc), it could throw off the air/fuel mixture once into a closed system when warm. If it's a small amount, it might just affect things at idle. If it's a larger amount, it will also affect overall power.

I had this on a 3000gt where the intercooler line popped off. That was a major leak, so it barely idled once warm while that was mucked up.
Click to expand...

yea, I'm thinking the issue is no somewhere in the throttle body as well. I am working through that right now. Thanks!
 
SV_Dude said:
Any updates? I'm curious what the Toyota tech said.
Click to expand...

got a call today and they told me that they found the issue. The metal pipes going from the vacuum regulator to the throttle body (I think "P" port) had rust inside of it. He ran a new piece of vacuum tubing from the throttle body directly to the regulator and it addressed the poor idle. He also said 2 vacuum lines were swapped but he didn't say exactly where. I'll get the details on Friday. He also took the line that I had temporarily connected back to the AS Pair/Reed valve and put it back to the passenger fender VSV valve.

On 4WD, there are 2 vacuum hoses going to the front axle actuator. One will have a blue paint mark on it, other will be a brown paint mark. These hoses will go into the engine room, pass side, rear of the inner fender behind the fues box. You will see 2 vacuum switching valves, (called VSV's from here forward) and they will be blue and a brown one. Brown puts you into 4WD, blue takes you out. In 2WD, the blue VSV should be supplying vacuum down to the actuator. In 4WD, brown will while blue shuts off (this vacuum just slides a sleeve as vacuum is moved from one side to the other of a diaphragm)

He tested everything COLD and idle was perfect with everything where it should be, but remember, my issue was with the engine HOT. He will test drive the truck tomorrow and we'll see if this is a solid fix. I'll post again once this get's ironed out... at $100 /hr I'm now up to 2.5 hours.... smh
 
question: is there an easy way to tell if i have ADD or non ADD?

I have the the vsv setup on the passenger side of the engine bay but i dont know if that automatically means ADD as well. I cant seem to find any vaccum hoses on the diff. itseelf

Also I have the 22re so i dont know if that matters. I read another thread where a guy claimed to have ADD.

anything helps.

Gracias,

Ay Ay Ron
 
I've got the same Problem on my 94

I'm sorry, I don't have a solution for you, but I do have a question that is running right along with your process of elimination....
My 94 3.0 is sluggish, sputtery, poor acceleration. On first inspection (I just bought this runner) the cables on the EGR Temp sensor were cut!! Does anyone know why they would've been? They need to be reconnected right?
I'm researching all that I can before I spend the same $1000 in parts that don't fix the problem!!

Good luck to you!!
 
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