What rear axles work with my 1989 V6?

89FourRunner

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Hey all -

turns out my gears are shot in my rear axle, and I am going to replace the entire axle if possible.

What can I use as a donor? Mine has the 3.0L V6, its an 89.
 
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If you're looking to replace the entire axle housing and you want it to bolt straight up, you need a housing from any '86 to '89 4Runner or '86 to '88 pickup. '85 and earlier housings are narrower, and '90+ 4Runner housings are set up for links instead of springs. '89+ pickup housings are still set up leaf spring, but I don't know if the frame width changed? If not, you can probably use a pickup housing all the way up to '95 (but not '95.5 on, that's a Tacoma). Of course as long as the gears match and you're willing to do the necessary fab, you can use any damned axle you want.

Mind if I ask why you're wanting to replace the entire housing? A 4.10 third ought to run you about $100 in your local classifieds, and then whatever the gear oil costs and you're done. That has to be less than an entire housing and shafts and such, and less work too.
 
Can I?

The trucks rear end is loud, and when i turn the driveshaft it moves clunkly, tight then completely loose, tight then loose as if somethings broken. the rear end is very loud when coming to a stop.

My buddy said the easiest thing was to get a complete axle to install bu they are pricey.
 
The problem with buying a used axle assembly is that you run the risk of acquiring the same issues. These 3rds are not too difficult to rebuild if you have a little mechanical sense about you and have a place to do it. There's an endless supply of write ups and videos (I've gotten lots off youtube, especially on the diesel) out there. Post your location. There may be someone nearby to help.
 
Can I?

The trucks rear end is loud, and when i turn the driveshaft it moves clunkly, tight then completely loose, tight then loose as if somethings broken. the rear end is very loud when coming to a stop.

My buddy said the easiest thing was to get a complete axle to install bu they are pricey.

Also - is there an easy way to tell what gearing i have? its an 89 V6 sr5

Your buddy is wrong, IMO. It's less work and less money to just replace the diff/third member, and that's almost certainly where the trouble is (assuming you've ruled out your transmission/transfer case? Take the driveshaft off the third and rotate just the flange. If it's still "clunkly" :D, then you'll know it's a trouble in the rear for sure). Other options include rebuilding it yourself as 88Toy points out, but I think that might be a little beyond you just yet. You could also have it rebuilt by a driveline shop or buy a new one if you don't want to trust a used diff - both are more expensive options but bring more piece of mind. But I don't see any sense in replacing the entire housing and shafts and drums and such when it's just the third member that's (presumably) bad.

Your gearing is almost certainly 4.10, but check your axle code, it should be on the vin plate on your firewall in the engine bay, then see here: Gearratiosanddiffs. Once you've got the third member out, you can also count the teeth on the ring gear and pinion gear in order to know for dang sure.
 
The problem with buying a used axle assembly is that you run the risk of acquiring the same issues. These 3rds are not too difficult to rebuild if you have a little mechanical sense about you and have a place to do it. There's an endless supply of write ups and videos (I've gotten lots off youtube, especially on the diesel) out there. Post your location. There may be someone nearby to help.

Unfortunately I dont know the first thing about it. I want to have it fixed the cheapest way possible because I am pretty tight these days and its my daily driver.

I live in Up state NY, about 3 hours from NYC.
 
I believe the bolt patterns of the 4 cylinder and v6 third members are different and you'll need to drill and tap the housing if you try to put a 4 cyl third in a v6 axle.
 
I believe the bolt patterns of the 4 cylinder and v6 third members are different and you'll need to drill and tap the housing if you try to put a 4 cyl third in a v6 axle.

Good to know. So I need one pulled from a V6. This is proving to be difficult here in NY state. Id rather not pay $600 for an axle or $350 for the 3rd member on ebay.

Seems pricey.
 
So make reasonably sure it's the diff first, disconnect the driveshaft and see if it's still notchy when you turn the flange. If so, go ahead and drop the third and verify the gear ratio, then start searching your classifieds and Craigslist. You can also search the Fore Sale sections on Yotatech, IH8mud, and Pirate4x4.com. Any 8" third member with 4.10 gears will work - you'll see a lot of talk of "4cyl" and "v6" diffs, ignore it, that's all completely irrelevant for your purpose. Any 4Runner rear diff with the right gear ratio will work, up to '02 (and maybe farther, does the 4th gen have an 8" axle?). Early pickup rear diffs will also work, but at some point Tacomas started getting the 8.4 rear axle and I don't think that third will bolt up? Post up the ads you find and we'll help you make sure it's the part you want. Aim for $100, that's roughly what they'll go for though you might get lucky. If you're in a hurry you'll pay a little more at a junkyard, sometimes $200-$300 but if you need it right now that's an option. For a little piece of mind, you can take whatever third you find to a driveline/differential shop and ask them to check it out for you, they'll probably charge you a couple bucks but they'll make sure the backlash is in spec and the gear pattern is good.

Removal and installation is very straightforward with basic tools. Soak everything you can see in PB Blaster a couple days before you start, and then again a couple hours before you start, and stuff should come off easy. First make sure the fill plug is free, I think it's a 19mm, because if you drain the oil and then find out you can't fill it you'll be pissed and teach yourself new swear words. Then drain the gear oil, that's a 22mm? 24? Somewhere in there anyway. Put the axle on jackstands, remove the wheels. Unfasten the ebrake linkage behind both brake drums, then remove the brake lines, 10mm if memory serves and you absolutely want to use a flare wrench, do not strip those or again with the swear words. Four nuts on the backside of the drums hold the axle shafts in place, should be 14mm - take those nuts off, then slide the axle shaft straight out, being careful of the rubber seal at the end of the axle housing, don't rest the shaft's weight on the seal? Pull the shafts out, rest them on the lug studs with the shaft pointing up - be careful, they'll be slippery with gear oil. Unbolt the driveshaft from the pinion flange, those are 14mm. Rest the free end on the ground. You can leave the other side connected to the tcase output, but don't let the shaft come apart at the slip coupling. Now unbolt the third member from the housing, this is a bunch of 12mm? nuts in a ring around the edge of the third. Take them all off then give the third a couple very stiff whacks with a rubber mallet, it should pop free. Lower it carefully, it's heavy. Installation is the exact reverse except you fill the third instead of draining it :D, you'll want some brake cleaner to clean the surfaces between the third and the housing, you can use Permatex's The Right Stuff instead of a paper gasket, and it may help to have somebody jiggle the pinion flange back and forth as you reinsert the axle shafts.
 
I believe the bolt patterns of the 4 cylinder and v6 third members are different and you'll need to drill and tap the housing if you try to put a 4 cyl third in a v6 axle.

I've never heard that? I'm almost positive they're the same. He should have no trouble bolting up a 4cyl third.
 
Kid V, thanks for the information. I did confirm that the issue is coming from the differential, as I got it off the ground, ran in at a few speeds and had a listen - all the noise is coming from the rear end, the tranny and t case are quiet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_yvPfEwZrs

Found this 2 minute video of the procedure you described. It doesn't seem all that difficult, and I can attempt it, but most likely will employ some experienced help.

THe real issue is money. I am in the middle of a move right now and I am pretty strapped. I am hoping I can run the rear end a small while without it blowing apart but who knows. Its pretty loud. It's louder than my dunlop mud terrains and thats alarming! haha.
 
If/when it eventually goes out, there's a respectably non zero chance it'll damage the splines on one or both axle shafts. It could be damaging them right now, depending on what exactly is wrong.

Just saying. You can definitely keep driving it, but you're on borrowed time and might make it worse.
 
If/when it eventually goes out, there's a respectably non zero chance it'll damage the splines on one or both axle shafts. It could be damaging them right now, depending on what exactly is wrong.

Just saying. You can definitely keep driving it, but you're on borrowed time and might make it worse.

I do understand that. Unfortunately I have absolutely no choice. It's my daily driver and I don't have much family to help me out with a car to borrow. It's for those concerns that I thought sourcing a complete axle was a smarter idea but they are just to expensive and nearly nonexistent here in NY.
 
I believe the bolt patterns of the 4 cylinder and v6 third members are different and you'll need to drill and tap the housing if you try to put a 4 cyl third in a v6 axle.

This is not true. 4 cyl. and 6 cyl. 3rd members are interchangeable, it is the e-locker diffs that are not a direct bolt-in.
 
I've never heard that? I'm almost positive they're the same. He should have no trouble bolting up a 4cyl third.

Yep, you're right on this, I'm wrong!:behindsofa:

Had to look up the info to see what was what on the rear diff differences. Here's a good link for all the different types of diffs offered, and what each came from:

LC ENGINEERING Differential Tech

Probably good to know what to look for if the op is in the junk yard pulling stuff! And, make sure you don't get that white-painted 8" diff!

I've had one ring go out on me once, the shop I had set up the diff missed something somewhere, and within 3 weeks, it ate the ring gear! I had to drive it to the shop, about 8 miles, and I seriously thought it wouldn't make it! I couldn't hear myself think it was so damned loud! I would not let this go long if it sounds like its screaming bloody murder at 20-30mph!
 
Where in NY are you? Dont know how far of a drive it is for you to come to central vt (05068) I have a 4cyl 4.10 3rd id be willing to let go. It will need bearings though.

Parts are all over the place up here. The junkyards seem to be littered with rotted out toyotas.
 
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Hey guys - Does the rear end need a limited slip additive to te gear oil? Based on the axle I need above which is the stock heavy duty 4.10 for the v6.
 
Limited slip friction modifier won't hurt anything, but it won't do anything for you either (unless you happen to have a clutch-type limited slip in there, in which case you need it).
 

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