What size rotors do I need? Sport Ed.

S

swampy_swimmer

New member
I have 2002 4Runner Sport Edition with 16" wheels. I was about to order some Centric part rotors, but I rememberd that I read somewhere here that SE Runners have larger size rotors then regular SR5 or Limited. Can someone advise me on the size or part number for SE?

thanks.
 
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I think 4rnrs that came with 265/16 tires from the factory (typically limited and I guess sport) used a 12.5" rotor whereas the other standard size was 11.5" for SR5s. Go with drilled for better cooling. :banana:
 
Since you KNOW what they're not for

Twan said:
Not at all what the purpose of drilled rotors are for. One of the silliest trends that people spend money on.
Click to expand...

what are the holes in drilled rotors for?? :banana: Can't wait!
 
In situations like on a track, where there's prolonged and extreme heat generated, the pad material can generate gas while clamping the rotors. The holes allow the gas to escape, keeping the pads from "floating". Notice the groove in the middle of pads now? Same purpose. You want to keep them cooler, then you're going to need a thicker rotor to absorb and dissipate the heat generated, which is what the Tundra upgrade offers.
 
Twan said:
In situations like on a track, where there's prolonged and extreme heat generated, the pad material can generate gas while clamping the rotors. The holes allow the gas to escape, keeping the pads from "floating". Notice the groove in the middle of pads now? Same purpose. You want to keep them cooler, then you're going to need a thicker rotor to absorb and dissipate the heat generated, which is what the Tundra upgrade offers.
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Dude, where did you come up with that from? Gas generated from the pads???

It's heat dissipation. Nothing more, nothing less.

And the groove is for anti-squeel and to give water a place to displace when wet.
 
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=78

Another popular addition to a high performance brake system are sport disc brake rotors that are dimpled, drilled or grooved to reduce brake fade by helping evacuate the surface film of gases that are often released during very heavy braking. All brake pads contain some organic (living) materials (like the petro-chemical resins that bind the friction materials together). As these organic materials "overheat," they revert to gases that may cause the brake pads to lose some of their contact with the rotor, essentially "aquaplaning" away from the rotor on a film of gases.
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Took all of 30 seconds to Google. Now, I'd recommend you research more and spend less time spreading misinformation.
 
Twan said:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=78



Took all of 30 seconds to Google. Now, I'd recommend you research more and spend less time spreading misinformation.
Click to expand...

Okay. I stand corrected.

I did do a little searching and contrary to what I thought (heat dissipation only) the pad material does become gaseous.

Apologies.

If we can agree that heat dissipation AND gaseous release are both involved then we agree.
 
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Thanks, I think we are a little off the course of the question. I do not intend to do Tundra upgrade and do not want drilled / slotted rotors. I just need to know for a fact that If I buy any rotors for 16" wheels they will be of the same size as the ones I have originally.
 
Should be easily confirmed by any auto parts store or Toyota dealership, but as far as I know the brakes on an '02 sport aren't any different than other 3rd gens. Me and a buddy both had the Tundra brake upgrade done - I have a '99 Limited and he has an '02 Sport - and the same exact parts were used on both. I know you don't want the TBU, but that tells me that there is no difference.
 
Thanks all. I just ordered Centric Parts rotors w/ cryo treatment and centric posi quite ceramic pads from Rock Auto.
Can you tell me approximate cost of installation of those?
 
Well it is pretty EZ diy but I suppose a brake shop might do it for 1.5 hrs work (maybe $75?). Watch this a couple time and when you do it, it will feel like you've been there. Luck! :banana:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpgrVXEVTUk

p.s. You won't need to bleed ur brakes (unless you already have air in them!).
 
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I know it's not hard for someone with experience. But I have no place to do it, no tools, no jack stands, I've never done it before... I'd rather pay someone who knows what he's doing.
 
Just wanted to give quick update. Replaced old rotors and pads yesterday. Cost $50 at my local shop. Pretty decent. For now shaking is gone, but I didnt drive it on the highway yet, still bedding them in. I had to make one heavy brake stop to avoid the collision, and did not feel much improvement in therms of stopping power. It felt about the same like with the old pads/rotors, or slightly less. I think its because they are still new. We'll see.
 
So I asked a technical rep at Centric for a specific bed in/break in procedure for their parts. He responded that I shouldn’t even bother with it, and pads/rotors for regular driving (not racing) should be laid in after simple road test and my lack of braking power could be due to the fact that brakes were not bled after the install.
I read through bleeding procedures here, and my question is: can it be done without removing wheels? I live in apptmnt building, don’t have a garage, jack stands etc. Just basic tools, and don’t want to take it to the shop for this simple procedure. And I plan on doing it by myself using speed bleeders that I’m ordering.

Thanks again.
 
Replace the rear shoes too?

I did all 4 at once, big increase in stopping power and a Huge reduction in nose dive, almost entirely eliminated the rear end 'thump' from the driveline compressing on hard stops. I made sure to set the auto adjustor correctly and then the bellcranks. Now I feel the rears are actually helping the fronts.

Yes you can bleed all 4 w/out removing the wheels. :banana:
 
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