Would finding a second hand rear axel from an FJ be the cheapest way to lock the rear

[bassmacka]

Just looking around I saw the rear axels online in junk yards for about 1k. There are 2 gearing options I noticed. See below which of these would be the best? Is this a good option over ARB air locker? cost and reliability being considered?

differential lock, 3.727 ratio (AT)
differential lock, 3.909 ratio (MT)

 

[Drunner97]

Just looking around I saw the rear axels online in junk yards for about 1k. There are 2 gearing options I noticed. See below which of these would be the best? Is this a good option over ARB air locker? cost and reliability being considered?

differential lock, 3.727 ratio (AT)
differential lock, 3.909 ratio (MT)

For 1000 bucks you can get the ARB locker and if you wait long enough you can get the sale that comes with the compressor. FJ axle you'd still need the wiring harness and everything else that goes with it.

 

[Inv4drZm]

It's just as easy, probably easier, to swap just the 3rd member than it is to swap the whole housing. You'll want 3.73 gears so they match your front diff gears, but the cheapest route is finding a used FJ or Tacoma 3rd member for $400-$500, they make a $200 wiring harness to make it plug and play or you can likely wire it yourself much cheapliyer. You would just have to notch your differential housing with a grinder for the elocker motor, though I've seen it done with a dremel.

This is not what I would recommend if you have 34s or 35s and wheel regularly in rocks. There is no guarantee on how long the used gears might last, and over time the diff will get weaker. I would recommend buying a rebuilt 3rd member with a solid pinion spacer the first time around. That way it's basically brand new and not going to weaken (as much) over time. This would likely be in the $1500 range for the rebuilt 3rd with elocker from ECGS, but IMO worth it if you don't want to get stranded.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

This is not what I would recommend if you have 34s or 35s and wheel regularly in rocks. There is no guarantee on how long the used gears might last, and over time the diff will get weaker. I would recommend buying a rebuilt 3rd member with a solid pinion spacer the first time around. That way it's basically brand new and not going to weaken (as much) over time. This would likely be in the $1500 range for the rebuilt 3rd with elocker from ECGS, but IMO worth it if you don't want to get stranded.

I'm thinking of updating my front and rear to a 4.56 but I'm only running 285/70 right now. In the future I may upgrade to 305/70 (34). Should I gear to 4.88 then or will 4.56 suffice? I am a V8 AWD 4R. I don't do A LOT of rocks but who knows...may come across them someday. Just don't want to buy and then figure out later I need different gearing. Could I run 4.88 with 33 (285/70). Thoughts? Wish ARB was doing a special with the pump and locker now.

 

[jrm]

we have 3.73

so thats the one youd need.

 

[Drunner97]

I'm thinking of updating my front and rear to a 4.56 but I'm only running 285/70 right now. In the future I may upgrade to 305/70 (34). Should I gear to 4.88 then or will 4.56 suffice? I am a V8 AWD 4R. I don't do A LOT of rocks but who knows...may come across them someday. Just don't want to buy and then figure out later I need different gearing. Could I run 4.88 with 33 (285/70). Thoughts? Wish ARB was doing a special with the pump and locker now.

I just had this same dilemma after blowing out my rear ring/pinion. I ended up going with 4.88s because of the amount of weight that I have. 4.56 would put me back close to stock, but then I'd still be dealing with weight and the 4.88s should give that little extra to offset everything. Problem is I'll be on 33s for the foreseeable future since I just spent all the money on gears and lockers. Need the rig back up and running though.

edit: I am a V6, so 4.56 may likely be fine for the V8 since you have the extra HP.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

I just had this same dilemma after blowing out my rear ring/pinion. I ended up going with 4.88s because of the amount of weight that I have. 4.56 would put me back close to stock, but then I'd still be dealing with weight and the 4.88s should give that little extra to offset everything. Problem is I'll be on 33s for the foreseeable future since I just spent all the money on gears and lockers. Need the rig back up and running though.

edit: I am a V6, so 4.56 may likely be fine for the V8 since you have the extra HP.

Yeah, while I am a V8 I did just add headers which takes away a little low end. So the 4.88 might help make up for that and be better especially since I have full RCI armor/sliders, Demello front, Wilco rear, RTT, sound deadening and planning to do a drawer system this winter.

 

[danthemanx07]

Yeah, while I am a V8 I did just add headers which takes away a little low end. So the 4.88 might help make up for that and be better especially since I have full RCI armor/sliders, Demello front, Wilco rear, RTT, sound deadening and planning to do a drawer system this winter.

Most of the GX470 guys (same drive train) go to 4.56.

The cheapest way to regear and lock the rear (albeit not to 4.56) is to pickup an e-locker third and a matching front. The best gear ratio you are going to get through this method though is going to be 4.10 (3rd gen 4runner rear and front out of a 3rd gen Tacoma). I am not aware of anything greater than 4.10 that came stock in the 8" front clamshell.

I agree with the sentiments above though that if you are going to go bigger than 33 - you should probably start saving for a new axle - something bigger than an 8". Otherwise, carnage will likely follow.

 

[Drunner97]

Yeah, while I am a V8 I did just add headers which takes away a little low end. So the 4.88 might help make up for that and be better especially since I have full RCI armor/sliders, Demello front, Wilco rear, RTT, sound deadening and planning to do a drawer system this winter.

I would say you're probably fine with 4.56s but maybe someone else with a V8 can chime in. I'm in the same boat. Full skids, sliders, dual battery, front single hoop demello, rear custom with swing out, prinsu roof rack (no rtt), (5) fj steel wheels, and km2s (wheel/tire combo alone is about 110 lbs per corner). It's a lot of weight to move around and likely contributed to me blowing out my rear end.

 

[Velas]

i like how these threads pop as I think them lol.. i think when i do my rear locker i will be going to 4.88, only because i can see myself going to 35s later down the road, not anytime soon though, my 33s are still basically new.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I'm thinking of updating my front and rear to a 4.56 but I'm only running 285/70 right now. In the future I may upgrade to 305/70 (34). Should I gear to 4.88 then or will 4.56 suffice? I am a V8 AWD 4R. I don't do A LOT of rocks but who knows...may come across them someday. Just don't want to buy and then figure out later I need different gearing. Could I run 4.88 with 33 (285/70). Thoughts? Wish ARB was doing a special with the pump and locker now.

My vote goes strongly towards 4.56 especially since you're only doing 34's and won't be in the rocks much. But I haven't regeared my truck I don't have any first-hand experience other than with my truck on stock gears and 35's.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

My vote goes strongly towards 4.56 especially since you're only doing 34's and won't be in the rocks much. But I haven't regeared my truck I don't have any first-hand experience other than with my truck on stock gears and 35's.

Hmmmm...I think one reason I won't go 35's is I only have 8" wheels and not sure it would be smart to go any bigger than a 305 or 34". Plus a lot of my offroading are trails with rocky sections but I'm not "crawling" or anything like that. There may be the point here or there I may need to but I'm not out doing the Rubicon or trails like that. With that said...is a front locker THAT necessary. Was just going to do front and call it day and leave the front to A-Trac since the axles aren't the strongest in the world. Just have that locker for those...moments. HAHA

 

[Drunner97]

i like how these threads pop as I think them lol.. i think when i do my rear locker i will be going to 4.88, only because i can see myself going to 35s later down the road, not anytime soon though, my 33s are still basically new.

My 4.88s are coming next week and I should have them installed next weekend. I'll let you know how terrible the gas mileage is on 33s, hahah.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

My 4.88s are coming next week and I should have them installed next weekend. I'll let you know how terrible the gas mileage is on 33s, hahah.

Please do! Shoot me a PM if you can with your thoughts. Be curious to hear the difference and if going to 34's eventually with all my weight 4.88 would be the right route. Did you go ECGS or just go gears and having a shop install?

 

[Drunner97]

Please do! Shoot me a PM if you can with your thoughts. Be curious to hear the difference and if going to 34's eventually with all my weight 4.88 would be the right route. Did you go ECGS or just go gears and having a shop install?

ECGS, fully built clam shell and 3rd with lockers front and rear. Hoping to be mobile by next Saturday or Sunday.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

ECGS, fully built clam shell and 3rd with lockers front and rear. Hoping to be mobile by next Saturday or Sunday.

Nice! I'm on the fence about front locker since I don't crawl a lot. That extra $900 for the front locker is a big bit of coin. But at least I know who I can hit up to see how the whole experience was with ECGS. Did you ship yours out or did you pay core? My truck will hopefully be on the road as well next week...Tues/Wed after a blown engine. Lets just hope my rear stays in place as I'm done spending for a little bit.

 

[Drunner97]

Nice! I'm on the fence about front locker since I don't crawl a lot. That extra $900 for the front locker is a big bit of coin. But at least I know who I can hit up to see how the whole experience was with ECGS. Did you ship yours out or did you pay core? My truck will hopefully be on the road as well next week...Tues/Wed after a blown engine. Lets just hope my rear stays in place as I'm done spending for a little bit.

I paid cores so I have to do a turn and burn on them to get my money back. The 3rd is already out since I blew the gears, I just need to drop my skid plates and start working the front diff out. I was on the fence about the front locker too since I don't really crawl either, but I was told that the ARB carrier actually helps strengthen the front whether you use it or not. And since I was already getting the front done I said screw it and added it last minute. Saves me from having to pay someone to add it later and I guess it's better to have and not use it than need it and not have it. So far ECGS has been great. It will be exactly 2 weeks from order to delivery when I get them next Tuesday.

 

[campn]

If you do get a complete rear axle out of a FJ or 4runner for the e-locker, Would you look at getting the 8.2" one from a 2010+ FJ or 4runner?

And the input bearings are known for going out on the early FJs, like the 2007-2008. And I have read that there was some bad ring gears that didn't have the correct heat treatment and gears can fail.

 

[Inv4drZm]

If you do get a complete rear axle out of a FJ or 4runner for the e-locker, Would you look at getting the 8.2" one from a 2010+ FJ or 4runner?

And the input bearings are known for going out on the early FJs, like the 2007-2008. And I have read that there was some bad ring gears that didn't have the correct heat treatment and gears can fail.

It would work, and they say the 8.2 is stronger so it might be an upgrade. Though it is still based off of the 8" so it's not like a Dana 60 or something.

 

[Velas]

i thought i read something about putting a front locker in our cars? something about it not helping too much and possible failure? or did i read that wrong, i don't remember where i read it.