BendRunner
New member
I've got a quote to install my icon stage 2 with UCA's for 350. Pulling the xreas as well
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XREAS replacement - what's the simplest solution?
- Thread starter amheck
- Start date
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Bluesky 07
Senior Member
[MENTION=290533]SummitRunner[/MENTION], meant to answer your question. If anything, I’ve got less body lean.
Sporin
New member
Bluesky 07, thanks for all that info, it looks great!
I'm still waffling about putting more money into my truck (05 with 191k miles) or getting into something a bit newer with less miles. But if I keep it, I really, really need to swap out my tired old XREAS, it's very clunky now in the cold.
I'm still waffling about putting more money into my truck (05 with 191k miles) or getting into something a bit newer with less miles. But if I keep it, I really, really need to swap out my tired old XREAS, it's very clunky now in the cold.
bearisasquare
New member
I finally got the X-REAS swapped out last week and the difference in ride quality is night and day. Again, I thought it was still working as designed b/c the truck handled well and nothing was leaking, but the ride was pretty harsh. Much, much smoother now and it handles better too. Bonus: the new front struts added about 1.5" of height at the fenders and 2" at the front lower skid plate (right under the bumper) that leveled out the rake nicely even with the .25" the rear springs added.
Here's the new setup:
Bilstein 4600 shocks and front springs from a '15 Tacoma TRD Offroad ($130 from local Craigslist)
2007 FJ rear springs ($70 shipped from a FJ Cruiser forum)
Also needed a 22mm wrench to disconnect the X-REAS fittings at the appropriate place (not at the shock!) so that was $7 at Home Depot.
I bought new top mount nuts and lower bolts, washers, and nuts from Toyota for $42 including tax but returned it all as my original hardware all worked with the new gear.
Scrapped the old springs and shocks at a local yard and they gave me $4.20 for them. Woo!
Before
After
Happy to answer any questions, and I also put together a set of PDFs from the Factory Service Manual that provide a lot of useful info including torque specs, directions for removal of the entire system or shocks only, and so on. As with anything, this is for reference only and it's your responsibility to use whatever is helpful to you in a safe manner. Here's what is included:
Member [MENTION=279296]jcaino[/MENTION] thoughtfully linked the files on his website so you can get them there or PM me your email address to receive a zipped folder.
When you disconnected the XREAS at the appropriate locations was there any leaking?
Also, once you disconnect at those points. Can you remove the shocks with the lines still attached at the banjo mount?
I wont be able to lift up all 4 wheels at the same time so wanting to clarify if ill have a mess of hydraulic fluid or not. Thanks
trd_v8_sport
New member
subscribed. pretty sure mine aren't blown (everytime i take it in my buddy and i inspect the system) but been weighing the option of ripping the system out or fixing it when it does go bad. I've got 190k+ on mine so I'm guessing its only a matter of time. my only thing is i just love the way the truck handles with them and im afraid the handling might suffer with normal shocks. so far everyone seems to go with the bilstein 5100s from what i see on the forums. anyone run this setup with the stock springs? i do more towing than off-roading if that helps at all.
thanks guys
thanks guys
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Short answers are no and yes. Not a drop leaked but the FSM directions specifically say to have all four wheels off the ground so the shocks are hanging at full extension. I don't know for sure what would happen without all four up but there are check valves at the disconnect points so maybe you'll be fine.
Here are some pics that may help. I couldn't get the 22mm wrench on the fitting and turn it without bending the wheel well wall in a bit. Just tighten down a crescent wrench all the way and gently bend it toward you, then slide the wrench down a bit and do the next little section until you have enough room. About a half-inch in was enough. When you're done, just gently bend it back. I had some black spray paint handy to cover any spots where the coating got scraped.
It's slow going to disconnect the fittings b/c you can only move the wrench a fraction of a turn each time. Here's one of the rear fittings with the wheel well bent out of the way and the fitting partially loosened. The pic is a bit deceiving as it looks like way more room than it is. Bracket at left is where the rear sway bar link attaches. It has to be removed to get to the fitting.
This one's off and I'm ready to remove the shock.
The bottom spring mount is designed such that you rotate the spring until the end runs up against a stop as shown. This is the old spring before removal.
After installing the new shock and wrangling the spring for a while, success!
The front X-REAS fitting is tougher to reach and is easier to confuse with the brake lines. Be sure to follow the tube from the shock to the fitting and be sure you have the right one.
The FSM disposal instructions say to remove the banjo bolt and drain the shocks. That was only possible for the rears b/c it took 5-6 extension/compression cycles to empty them and I couldn't budge the fronts with the old spring on them. The fluid was amber and remarkably clear. It's just a trickle in this pic since I didn't have enough hands to compress the shock and take the pic.
Old rear spring vs. new-to-me 2007 FJ spring. They're sitting upside down; when installed, the rounded end is on bottom and the flattened end is on top.
I took the old springs and shocks to a local scrapyard and got $4.20 for them, which was nice b/c I didn't want them hanging around my garage.
[MENTION=261438]trd_v8_sport[/MENTION], you're right that most run 5100s but mine are 4600s from a '15 Tacoma TRD Offroad. The 4600 is very similar other than the fronts not being height adjustable, which didn't matter to me.
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bearisasquare
New member
Thank you for this!
