Yakima or Stock roof rails?

[perkdog258]

I am looking a getting a Yakima Skybox for our annual long trips. My 2011 LE never came with the rails. I was wondering if any of you have any opinions (and I am sure you do hehe) on if it is worth it to get the stock rails or just something else?

I am kind of leaning towards non-stock rails because I can just remove them when not in use, but thought I would ask.

Thanks!

opcorn:

 

[cutty01]

While more expensive have you considered getting a Gobi rack? It is compatible with a wide range of Yakima or Thule accessories.

If cost is a consideration and you don't already have stock rails, I suggest going with the Yakima or Thule rails and mounts over stock rails. The stock cross bars are only rated 150lbs distributed evenly and with aftermarket rails you will have more mounting options.

 

[perkdog258]

While more expensive have you considered getting a Gobi rack? It is compatible with a wide range of Yakima or Thule accessories.

If cost is a consideration and you don't already have stock rails, I suggest going with the Yakima or Thule rails and mounts over stock rails. The stock cross bars are only rated 150lbs distributed evenly and with aftermarket rails you will have more mounting options.

I would love a Gobi rack!! Problem is cost is a the problem. With the third row seat eating up a lot of storage space it makes the annual road trips a little hard to fit all our stuff. I have considered a Gobi rack since we do a lot of tent camping and it would be nice to have the ARB awning mounted to it, but unfortunately cost is the big issue here.

I have been leaning towards the after market rails for the same reason you said....more options.

 

[MSinDC]

Aftermarket rails definitely give you more options. However, if you're going to stay under that 150 lbs rating the factory crossbars have a cleaner look IMO. You also mention taking them off when not in use, which is not realistic for factory crossbars (not sure how realistic it is to remove aftermarket each time b/c not sure how they attach).

It's all about how you plan to use them - I just use the roof for my kayak so the factory crossbars work fine with my J cradles.

 

[perkdog258]

Aftermarket rails definitely give you more options. However, if you're going to stay under that 150 lbs rating the factory crossbars have a cleaner look IMO. You also mention taking them off when not in use, which is not realistic for factory crossbars (not sure how realistic it is to remove aftermarket each time b/c not sure how they attach).

It's all about how you plan to use them - I just use the roof for my kayak so the factory crossbars work fine with my J cradles.

Yeah I would only take them off if I got after market. I have seen in the forum that some people complain about the whistling for the aftermarket. I know the stock do not but not sure if I want to go through the pain of putting them on and being limited on the use of them.

Basically I am really on the fence and could go either way here.

 

[cutty01]

Yeah I would only take them off if I got after market. I have seen in the forum that some people complain about the whistling for the aftermarket. I know the stock do not but not sure if I want to go through the pain of putting them on and being limited on the use of them.

Basically I am really on the fence and could go either way here.

You might be able to pick up a pair of used stock rails and cross bars at a good price from someone who just recently upgraded to a Gobi or Baja. It would be a low cost investment if you are only looking to mount a cargo box. There was a GB for a Gobi a few months ago and folks are just now receiving their order so they may be motivated to sell their stock rails. Just an idea.

PS - I am still running my stock rails and cross bars mounted and can confirm there is no whistling. I plan on mounting my Yakima Load Warrior rack until I can afford something better, but having had it mounted on my 3rd gen before, I know there will be a lot more noise .

 

[Peyto]

I went with Yakima bars for both the increased load and the fact that I can take them off in less than a minute. Living a snowy place, trying to clear snow off the roof of a vehicle the height of a 4Runner is annoy enough as it is in the cold, having crossbars on the roof only makes it worse. It also helps that craigslist (or kijiji for us western Canadians) usually has a bunch of Yakima and Thules available at any given time for a smokin' price.

That being said, if you like the clean looks of the OEM bars, won't ever need that load capacity, aren't as whiny as me about snow on the roof, and don't mind spending a little bit more then go for it.

 

[DWToyota]

I have both a Yakima rail setup and I use the factory crossbars I think both have their place. I also have a long roof top box I use and thought I would mention my main problem you might keep in mind.

My roof top box is long enough for skis, the downside is with it mounted I can't open the rear hatch all the way because the rails don't move it far enough forward. Just something you might want to be aware of when you are looking for your setup. The after market rails can sometimes move the boxes up a little higher and that can help.

 

[perkdog258]

I went with Yakima bars for both the increased load and the fact that I can take them off in less than a minute. Living a snowy place, trying to clear snow off the roof of a vehicle the height of a 4Runner is annoy enough as it is in the cold, having crossbars on the roof only makes it worse. It also helps that craigslist (or kijiji for us western Canadians) usually has a bunch of Yakima and Thules available at any given time for a smokin' price.

That being said, if you like the clean looks of the OEM bars, won't ever need that load capacity, aren't as whiny as me about snow on the roof, and don't mind spending a little bit more then go for it.

Good point about the snow! It was in the back of my mind. We get tons of lake effect here and snow is a big issue.

 

[perkdog258]

I have both a Yakima rail setup and I use the factory crossbars I think both have their place. I also have a long roof top box I use and thought I would mention my main problem you might keep in mind.

My roof top box is long enough for skis, the downside is with it mounted I can't open the rear hatch all the way because the rails don't move it far enough forward. Just something you might want to be aware of when you are looking for your setup. The after market rails can sometimes move the boxes up a little higher and that can help.

I had read that in some of the forums about the rear hatch not opening all the way. Sounds like you guys have convinced me to go after market. Thanks again for all the help on this one!

 

[pplmvr33]

Not sure about the 2011's but on my 2015 the skybox feet wont fit under the low profile factory crossbars. They are way too close to the roof.

 

[Peyto]

Good point about the snow! It was in the back of my mind. We get tons of lake effect here and snow is a big issue.

I'm glad someone else understood what I meant and didn't think I was a whiner for bringing it up! A minor issue but just another reason why I prefer that the bars be easily removed.

 

[cjacob316]

I have Yakima cross bars and a fairing, they don't make any noise. They hold a bit more weight, and since they are a bit higher, you probably won't have to worry about the spoiler hitting it.

 

[RAD4Runner]

If going after-market. I suggest you consider this one difference between Thule and Yakima racks/cross-bars:

Yakima towers (feet) use cam action to secure the crossbars. This:
(1) Tears up the coating on the cross-bars, and
(2) As cam tightens on the cross-bar, because cam has a rolling action, it tends to shift cross-bar position.
When coating is torn up, it allows water to get on the core metal and cause rust, especially if salty water.

Thule towers use plain clamping action on cross-bar so:
(1) Instead of tearing up the coating it just leaves depressions, and
(2) Clamping action is perpendicular to rail. Rail does not shift as clamp tightens.

Ask me how I know

 

[Jetboy]

I have the stock rails and recommend something else. They are a PITA to put on and they sit too close to the roof. My Yakima box clamps work on the factory bars, but they sit so close to the roof that the clamps rub on the roof with any load in it. meaning it's basically unusable without some type of fix. I put a square pad of clear bra under each one to save the paint, but it's not ideal. I had the Yakima quick release towers on my last 4runner and it was awesome.

 

[Peyto]

If going after-market. I suggest you consider this one difference between Thule and Yakima racks/cross-bars:

Yakima towers (feet) use cam action to secure the crossbars. This:
(1) Tears up the coating on the cross-bars, and
(2) As cam tightens on the cross-bar, because cam has a rolling action, it tends to shift cross-bar position.
When coating is torn up, it allows water to get on the core metal and cause rust, especially if salty water.

Thule towers use plain clamping action on cross-bar so:
(1) Instead of tearing up the coating it just leaves depressions, and
(2) Clamping action is perpendicular to rail. Rail does not shift as clamp tightens.

Ask me how I know

I could be mistaken, but doesn't it just depend on which model Yakima or Thule you buy?

I use the discontinued Yakima LowRider which seems to clamps in the same way you describe the Thule above. As far as I can tell the only thing that is touching the rail is rubber. The LowRider was replaced by the Rail Grab which seems to similarly use perpendicular clamping.

Either way, it's a good reminder to take a look at how the different options connect to the rails and can damage them.

 

[winston70]

If going after-market. I suggest you consider this one difference between Thule and Yakima racks/cross-bars:

Yakima towers (feet) use cam action to secure the crossbars. This:
(1) Tears up the coating on the cross-bars, and
(2) As cam tightens on the cross-bar, because cam has a rolling action, it tends to shift cross-bar position.
When coating is torn up, it allows water to get on the core metal and cause rust, especially if salty water.

Thule towers use plain clamping action on cross-bar so:
(1) Instead of tearing up the coating it just leaves depressions, and
(2) Clamping action is perpendicular to rail. Rail does not shift as clamp tightens.

Ask me how I know

I guess you like the Thule towers better than the Yakima ones? I am currently looking at both. Thanks

 

[docsnavely]

My wife and I had the same debate. We priced everything out between:

stock cross bars ~ $100 (nope; don't want the arch)

thule cross bars and feet ~ $175 (preferred due to versatility and ease of removal)

yakima sky box ~ $450 (chosen against thule after recommendation from guy at REI who showed the mechanism and construction on yakima boxes is far superior for $100 less)

gobi or similar rack ~ $1000 (the end game)

I ultimately want to get a full length slim profile roof rack but the money just isn't there right now. I expect in the next year we'll get the rack so I didn't want to spend $175 on cross bars and feet that would only be used for a year.

The box also is a bit pricey for my budget. We instead decided to go with:

Amazon.com: Pro Series 63153 Rambler Hitch Cargo Carrier for 2" Receivers: Automotive

with

Amazon.com: ROLA 20174 Red Cargo Carrier Light Kit: Automotive

and

Amazon.com: Master Lock 2866DATSC Swivel Head Receiver Lock, Chrome: Automotive

I just posted a bunch of pics from our recent road trip with the setup. (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/203610-docs-roadrunner-trip-mod-thread.html#post2092962) It worked beautifully with no issues. There was only the faintest wobble, but once the rack was loaded, it was rock steady. Even packed it just right so the hatch could open and the dog could get in and out of the back with ease.

I was a bit OCD and tie wrapped (zip tied) all of the lighting cables underneath the tray. I bought a 3 foot extension cable due to my overzealous use of ties. After all is said and done, I don't think we couldn't have gotten a better outcome even with the thule feet/bars and yakima box. Everything was easily accessible with no need for climbing and hoisting bags over my head.

We brought a $12 box of assorted bungee cords and a gray tarp. The cords came in handy for reorganizing items and for tying the tarp around the luggage for the 2 brief rain showers we encountered. For offroading, we just added a 3rd tie down strap across the entire load. Everything stayed in place during a 4 hour off road adventure through Joshua Tree.

I would say if you want the gobi but can't afford it, you most likely won't be able to comfortably afford the rails and box either. This setup was all under $300 for everything. When you do get your rack, this is just another option you'll have for your pack out opposed to the bars you won't be able to use later.

 

[Fishpilot]

I just did 6000+ miles with a fully loaded yakima load warrior mounted directly to the factory cross bars and it was the single solitary thing I had to worry about every mile. I was around carrying 2 bikes, the bike carriers, the rack, and a loaded PVC bag on the roof for a total load of ~120lbs and had to tighten the front drivers side wingnut/bolt at EVERY stop. The crossbar shows signs of metal on metal wear where the crossbar is mounted in the roof rail "carrier" from all the movement. I would tighten the bolt by pushing up on the load and get the bolt pretty tight to have it very lose at the next stop. As mentioned before the mounts that clamp to the factory crossbars are really close to the roof, no rubbing here but its a PITA to adjust and tighten. I already have the Yakima round bars and mounts and will switch back to them ASAP and recommend you stay away from the factory crossbars for all these reasons. Check craigslist for good deals.

I also had a fully loaded hitch mounted cargo rack for the same trip and loved it. Way easier to load, cheaper then any roof rack even with the LED light kit, and tough as nails. BUT, it will weigh you down and sag your rear end, you lose departure angle, you have to have room to store it, and you almost certainly won't be able to open the tailgate. Thankfully there is a sliding window for that!

 

[perkdog258]

My wife and I had the same debate. We priced everything out between:

stock cross bars ~ $100 (nope; don't want the arch)

thule cross bars and feet ~ $175 (preferred due to versatility and ease of removal)

yakima sky box ~ $450 (chosen against thule after recommendation from guy at REI who showed the mechanism and construction on yakima boxes is far superior for $100 less)

gobi or similar rack ~ $1000 (the end game)

I ultimately want to get a full length slim profile roof rack but the money just isn't there right now. I expect in the next year we'll get the rack so I didn't want to spend $175 on cross bars and feet that would only be used for a year.

The box also is a bit pricey for my budget. We instead decided to go with:

Amazon.com: Pro Series 63153 Rambler Hitch Cargo Carrier for 2" Receivers: Automotive

with

Amazon.com: ROLA 20174 Red Cargo Carrier Light Kit: Automotive

and

Amazon.com: Master Lock 2866DATSC Swivel Head Receiver Lock, Chrome: Automotive

I just posted a bunch of pics from our recent road trip with the setup. (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/203610-docs-roadrunner-trip-mod-thread.html#post2092962) It worked beautifully with no issues. There was only the faintest wobble, but once the rack was loaded, it was rock steady. Even packed it just right so the hatch could open and the dog could get in and out of the back with ease.

I was a bit OCD and tie wrapped (zip tied) all of the lighting cables underneath the tray. I bought a 3 foot extension cable due to my overzealous use of ties. After all is said and done, I don't think we couldn't have gotten a better outcome even with the thule feet/bars and yakima box. Everything was easily accessible with no need for climbing and hoisting bags over my head.

We brought a $12 box of assorted bungee cords and a gray tarp. The cords came in handy for reorganizing items and for tying the tarp around the luggage for the 2 brief rain showers we encountered. For offroading, we just added a 3rd tie down strap across the entire load. Everything stayed in place during a 4 hour off road adventure through Joshua Tree.

I would say if you want the gobi but can't afford it, you most likely won't be able to comfortably afford the rails and box either. This setup was all under $300 for everything. When you do get your rack, this is just another option you'll have for your pack out opposed to the bars you won't be able to use later.

Thanks for the suggestion here. I did think about a similar setup BUUUUTTT my wife hooked me up last year with a bike rack for the hitch. Now that my son is riding with us we now take the bikes on our summer vacations. That is why I am looking to get storage on the roof.