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Old 05-20-2012, 09:01 PM #1
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Power Steering Pump Rebuild 5VZ-FE

Here is how I rebuilt my power steering for $21.00.
Seal kit from PSkits.com - Power Steering Rebuild Kits for Pumps and Racks $14.00 for the kit and $7.00 for shipping. It take about 10 minutes to completely tear the pump down.

The tools I used,




The pump removed from my 4runner,



Removed the pulley and you can see the shaft seal,



Removed the reservoir,



Removed the mounting bracket,




There is an o-ring at the base os the reservoir that will be replaced.



Removing the rear housing,






This piece is the side plate, it has two o-rings and a wave washer.




Here is the rotor assembly,




More to come
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:08 PM #2
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Thanks for posting this up I've been waiting for your post since you mentioned it earlier. So are there any checks to make on this type of Pump (rotary vane Pump)? or is the repair mainly for leaks on the seals?
If possible can you take some shots of the vane assembly out of the housing?

Thanks for sharing, working on anything and taking shots always slows the process down, but its great to share the info..looking forward to the rest
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:15 AM #3
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this is good to know, The cap on mine came off some how and I went through the mud pit a couple of times so i pulled the belt and been running arm power ever sense.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:14 AM #4
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Thanks for the write-up.
Looks like a simple rebuild. I've done it on my Honda accord before, looks like the same rotor and vane concept.

Keep us posted on the results.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:32 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonwilly2 View Post
this is good to know, The cap on mine came off some how and I went through the mud pit a couple of times so i pulled the belt and been running arm power ever sense.
Beast!!
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:23 PM #6
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Cam ring and vane plates removed from rotor, also notice the snap ring that holds the rotor on the shaft, it is partly unseated so you can see it. I call myself checking the pics as I went but my eyes must be worse than I thought, sorry about the blury pics.







Front housing with the shaft seal removed,




Inspection instructions from the FSM,

Pump shaft to housing check, I used my digital calipers for this.




Vane to rotor check,




Vane plate check,




Random picts,





If anyone has any suggestions as to how this is arranged please feel free to speak up because I'm not real good at this. I will have to take some more picts and show how I prepared the parts for assembly.
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Last edited by mmml4; 05-21-2012 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:36 PM #7
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No, this is great man. It's just nice to see what you're up against before you do it the first time. There is always discovery that needs to be made on your own, just the fact that you took some pics and posted those specs from the FSM is helpful.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:16 PM #8
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Thanks for posting inspiration . I'll order kit soon, till then I hope my spare holds up. Just info I found out in my swap, the pump on my 98'( the squealer ) is electric. The pump from my 97'(parts truck) is vacuum powered. I just connected vac lines as they were and put in a t, as I moved an evap vac hose to the Back of intake. Took me 3 1/2 hours today and about two hours to remove the donor yesterday, thank Buddha for parts truck. I flushed ps system last week, after finding small leak from rack while doing rack bushings and inner tie rods. I filled with Lucas stop leak and prestone ps fluid. I ran the wheel lock to lock 5 times, topped. Then started and ran , lock to lock again 5 times, topped. Test drove no issue. 6 days later it starts to howl( like fluid starved)and vib in wheel. Fluid fine, a little over. I pulled belt yesterday and swapped it out today. I did the same fluid combo and fill routine this time. How important is Dexron3??I'm thinking the 166k pump didn't like that clean heavy fluid and/or a piece of who knows jammed it up. Any thoughts? The new old pump that I drove on for 4 years before installing it today worked fine and is working fine now. I've driven 30 miles on this swap.
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Old 08-30-2018, 03:16 AM #9
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Great thread. Just ordered the rebuild kit and will be doing this as soon as it arrives. This week my front seal blew out and I'm pretty sure that it had 230k on it all in AZ heat. Much better than $100 plus for a reman or over $300 for one from the dealer. I will report back on how it goes.
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Old 08-30-2018, 07:20 AM #10
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Was a special tool needed to remove the pulley?
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Old 01-22-2022, 09:03 PM #11
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Will this fix a whine issue? Got a NAPA reman unit ready to go in but i'm hearing a bunch of horror stories about the reman pumps being trash. Considering rebuilding my 230k OEM pump but I don't know if it will fix the problem i'm facing.

It always used to whine on cold in the morning but then later went away. 2 days ago the pump whined louder than usual and has not been quiet ever since. Cleaned the reservoir filter with 2 cans of brake cleaner and flushed the fluid but to no avail.

The 4Runner can sit but I want to make sure the PS system works at all time and I never feel comfortable using non-factory parts especially on a critical part like this.
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Old 01-22-2022, 09:44 PM #12
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I haven't had luck with aftermarket power steering pumps. Glad to know they can be rebuilt as it's probably make it like new again
. I have 2 or 3 spares for that nasty whine situation. Keep that screen on the bottom of the return line tank too. As they are known to clog up and starve the pump for fluid..

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