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Old 07-05-2013, 11:36 PM #1
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sluggercz's '05 Build Thread

How she look's now:


I'll try and keep this thread up to date as well as document each modification with pictures + a tutorial.
[Updated to include tools and parts used for each modification]

4Runner purchased 14th June, 2013:




1st modification, Plasti-dip'd Wheels:
  1. Tools: Jack + stands, 21mm Socket wrench for lugs, torque wrench (should go to at least 90ft-lb)
    Parts: Plasti-dip Spray(can be found at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.), Index Cards and painter's tape.
  2. Jack one side up.

  3. Remove wheels and place index carts to prevent overspray, cover lugnuts with painters tape.
  4. (Not pictured) Spray light first coat, wait 30 min. Spray 4 more coats per wheel, waiting ~30 min. between each coat. Once done spraying last coat, immediately remove index cards and lug nuts and allow final coat to dry for ~40 minutes. Reattach wheels + move on to the other side.
  5. All done.



  6. Used about 2 cans of Plasti-dip for all 4 wheels.

2nd modification, Plasti-dip'd Grill:
  1. Tools: 10mm Socket wrench
    Parts: Plasti-dip spray, less than 1 can is needed.
  2. Unbolt front grill, use a 10mm socket. Should be 8 grey nuts that connect grill to hood, and 2 black bolts that connect hood latch to grill.

  3. (Not pictured) Follow same technique as painting the wheels, start with a light coat, wait 30min, then add 3-5 more coats.
  4. Re-install grill.

3rd modification, Badge removal:
  1. Tools: Heat gun or blow-dryer, metal scraper or dental floss/fishing line.
    Parts: Goo-gone (or other adhesive remover)
  2. To remove the badges I used a B&D Heat gun (though I'm sure a blowdryer would work just as well) and the metal scraper supplied in the kit.
  3. Set the heat-gun around Low-Med heat (~200 degrees Fahrenheit) and held it about a foot away.
  4. Angle the scraper to as near parallel to the side panel as possible to prevent any scratching.
  5. Use an adhesive remover if needed to get rid of any remaining gunk.

4th modification, Interior LED Swap + Auto-on Maplights:
Tools: 10mm Socket wrench, thin flathead screwdriver, crimper + wire stripper.
Parts: 4th Gen interior LED kit, 18AWG wire, Red wire tap connector, Blue Female+Male insulated quick disconnects.
Followed t4rman's "How to" on toyota120 forums.
Wired maplights to ILE circuit so they turn on when doors open/car unlocked, and dim after ~15 seconds. Followed JA's write-up, skipped using a switch though.
  • Maplights:
  • Maplights + Driver side door light:
  • Passenger side door light:
  • Rear lights(secured LED boards with hot glue):
  • Cargo area light:
  • Full length shot:
  • Night shot:

Last edited by sluggercz; 07-22-2013 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:38 PM #2
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5th modification, LED Tail light swap:
Followed CookieRoe's Install Guide
Tools: 10mm Socket wrench, 10mm wrench
Parts: 81551-35320, 81561-35280
  • Close up:
  • Brakes pressed:
  • Brakes not pressed:
  • LED Tails + License Plate lights:

Last edited by sluggercz; 07-12-2013 at 11:56 PM. Reason: Edited for clarity.
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:02 AM #3
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This whole thread[liked]
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'04 GGM 4Runner SE-V8 4x4/XREAS/Auto Dim-Compass rear view/homelink/RSCA curtain system/Pioneer deh-x8500bs/Grabber AT2/Gibson CBE/HCF Delete/Gobi Ladder/yellow HID Fogs.. awdjunkies build thread

Shout out to Stuck_CAPS For this GEM: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...iy-videos.html
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:08 AM #4
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I love your 4runner man. Nice color looks mint condition.
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:49 AM #5
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Keep up the quality work.
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:33 PM #6
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Washed and waxed this morning:








7th Modification, Additional 12V socket(for GPS):
Tools:10mm socket wrench, wire stripper + crimper.
Parts:12V Aux Power Socket(can find these at AutoZone/O'Reilly/etc.), Red Wire Tap Connector (22-16AWG), Red + Black 18AWG wire, 2 Red female quick disconnect terminals.
  1. Remove lower panel dash panel and metal shield, each is secured by 2 10mm bolts:
  2. Remove rear center console to access the stock 12V power connector(has 2 wire's coming out: 1 red, 1 white with a black stripe):
  3. Use wire tap's to splice into the positive and negative wire's, then run cable behind the center console to area underneath the steering column:
  4. Crimp a female quick disconnect terminal onto the end of each wire. Then connect the positive to the center wing on the added socket, and the negative to the outermost wing:
  5. I ran the GPS cable behind the side stripping:
  6. Reattach center console, lower dash paneling. Turn car on and test to see if the new socket is powered:

    Success! Now I can use both my GPS and radar detector.

Last edited by sluggercz; 07-06-2013 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:59 AM #7
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good mods!..ur truck looks gr8.......think the last remaining mod is blacked out projector retrofits...
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:29 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthrealm View Post
good mods!..ur truck looks gr8.......think the last remaining mod is blacked out projector retrofits...
Yeah, hopefully should be done with the Retrofit by the end of this week. Blacking out the headlight housing as well.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:40 PM #9
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Bumper/headlights removal + Painting Headlight Housing Black

Tools: Oven, 10mm Socket, Painter's tape
Parts: Krylon Satin Black Spraypaint


Write-up:
Part 1: Removing bumper and headlight assembly
  1. Remove the radiator shield, secured by 8 clips.
  2. Disconnect fog light cables.
  3. Remove front bumper, 6 clips and 6 claws on top. 8 bolts underneath.

  4. Disconnect High, Low, and Side lights.
  5. Remove 2 top bolts, 1 inside bolt and 1 bolt on outside. Top and inside are grey, outside is black.



Part 2: Painting the headlight housings and projector shrouds
  1. Remove all screws and rubber grommets from back of the headlights:

  2. Bake headlights in oven at 200deg. Fahrenheit for ~15 minutes.
  3. Remove light assembly from oven and use a thin flathead screwdriver to assist in prying the lens from the light assembly.
  4. Store the lens in a dust free environment.
  5. Remove amber reflector and diffuser for side light.
  6. Prep light shroud by cleaning with alcohol and masking side light area.
  7. Paint by spraying around 2-4 light coats, waiting ~5minutes between coats. Should take an hour to dry.

Last edited by sluggercz; 07-14-2013 at 03:31 AM.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:42 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sluggercz View Post
Painting headlight housing & BiXenon Retrofit:
Tools: Oven, 10mm Socket, Proxxon Rotary Tool FBS 115/E, Painter's tape
Parts: FX-R III Retrofit Kit, Aluminum Tape, JB KwikWeld, JB SteelStik, Clear Waterproof Silicone Caulking, Krylon Satin Black Spraypaint

References:
  1. 2004 Toyota 4Runner HID retrofit
  2. Projector Retrofit - 2006 4Runner
  3. Rickashay's Projector Retrofit

Write-up:
(in progress - pictures to come)
Part 1: Painting the headlight housings and projector shrouds
  1. Remove headlights from the vehicle, may have to remove front bumper to make it easier.
  2. Bake headlights in oven at 200deg. Fahrenheit for ~15 minutes.
  3. Remove light assembly from oven and use a thin flathead screwdriver to assist in prying the lens from the light assembly.
  4. Store the lens in a dust free environment.
  5. Unassemble the headlight.
Keep it coming! we could use a good retrofit write up
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:00 PM #11
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You've been busy! Looks great!
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My Satoshi Grille Mod
2008 Sport - TOYOTA Raptor Grill - Toytec 3" Suspension Lift with Coilovers - Bilstein 5100 - Cooper Discover STT Pro -
Fuel Beast Wheels - 20% Tint - LED Interior - Remote Start
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:44 PM #12
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Windows Tinted

Got all the windows tinted with 3M FX 15%:



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Old 07-10-2013, 11:52 PM #13
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Looks great, just like new. Looks like you have been on a mod craze like I was during the winter.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:28 PM #14
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Bilstein 5100/OME 885,895 Install

Bilstein 5100's/ OME 885,895 Install:
(Write up in progress)

Before:


After:


For the most part followed Photog's Write Up: "OME Install, No spring compressor". However, I found the OME 885's to be a bit too stiff to install when combined with the Bilsteins and had to resort to using the AutoZone Strut Spring Compressor.
Tools: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm socket wrenches, Jack + stands, spring compressor (rented from AutoZone), LiquidWrench, Red LocTite
Parts: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Front Shocks, Rear Shocks. ARB OME 885(Front) + 895(rear) coils.
  • Exploded view of Suspension w/Torque values, click for a larger image size (should help with visualization):

  • Components:
  • Stock front height: approx. 33"
  • Stock rear height: approx. 35"
Write-up:
  1. Will start on the front. Loosen lug nuts on front wheels. Jack up the car and place jack stands underneath frame on both sides - may need to use 2"x4"x4" pieces of wood to have enough ground clearance- remove wheels:

  2. Remove front skid plate:
  3. Remove sway bar starting with unbolting the sway links then unbolting sway bar brackets:
    Sway bar link:

    Sway bar brackets:

  4. Place floor jack underneath LCA and jack up:

Done with the install, here are the numbers for the new ride height(pictures to follow):
Front Right - Ground to top of wheel well:
Stock: 33" Now: 39"
Rear Right - Ground to top of wheel well:
Stock: 35" Now: 38.5"





As you can see, I now have a slight bro-rake - but hopefully the front will settle a 1/2" or more over the next month or two. If the front coils don't settle I'll probably get some top mount spacers with extended studs for the rear, most likely a 1/2" set.

Last edited by sluggercz; 07-12-2013 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:48 PM #15
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LED Footwell Lights

Going to tackle the LED footwell lights today.

I'm going to be using the STRIP_RL_12_W_6k LED panels from VLEDs.


Since I'm still waiting on the Cole Hersee switch I ordered, I will be wiring this into the ILE circuit (the same wire the maplight mod taps into) so the footwell lights come on when a door opens and so they automatically turn off as well.

I'm using J.A.'s 4Runner site as a reference, here's the link.

From J.A.'s site:
Negative terminal taps in here
Positive terminal taps in here

I'm using a small battery pack with alligator clips connected to test different placements for the footwell LEDs:


Done with the footwells!
They took longer than expected, mainly because I had to fabricate some angled T-mounts for the rear footwell areas; also, I had to deal with the flaps on the bottom back side of the Limited bucket seats - folded the bottom half of the flap back and up behind the top half.

I'll post some pictures soon, but for now I can tell you that it makes a load of difference at night - especially when you are stepping into/out of your newly lifted runner.

Last edited by sluggercz; 07-15-2013 at 08:03 PM.
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