Spark plugs-98 Limited-

Any opinions on the best spark plugs for a 98 limited V6?

Do they HAVE to be the "double electrode" style?

I replaced the original plugs with NGK BKR5EIX-11 Iridium and they seem ok...

Mahalo,

Chuck from Hilo

I used the iridiums single and in 20,000 miles the gap on 3 of the plugs had widened and the mpg suffered. I switched back to denso double platinum with the dual grounds.

I'm no expert, but from what I've read, the "waste spark" design of our engines causes our plugs to fire twice as often as other designs. The dual electrode is meant to compensate for this.

I just replaced mine. I went with the Bosch 4+. I had these in before and I got 80k+ on them. I should have replaced them sooner but it is what it is. It's an awesome plug for $5. (napaonline.com)

The double electrode is for tight combustion chambers. Since fuel is carbon based.......with the two electrodes the spark will always happen in the highest concentration of fuel.

My original Densos went for 150k miles (got a little lazy and ignored them too long) and just replaced them with dual electrode NGKs. Next I'll be replacing the original 1998 wires.

NGK explains it all for you:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/tech/New Ign Systems-Long Life Plugs.pdf

I've always used Denso standard plugs from advance. PN 3194. Around $4 a pop. Also NGK wires PN 4412.

I just did mine with stock NGK's: BKR5EKB-11 (3967)--$3.99 each at NAPA. This is the sixth plug change for me (every 30k since mile zero...well, mile 30k), so I think I've got it down. Still, I was irritated by how many times I had to walk from my shade tree by the convenient stone wall (for tools and beverages) to the garage to get tools, so I took a pic for me to refer to next time of all the tools I used for the job.

I am putting this here as it is most recent plug thread and so most new searches will hit here. Hope this helps someone.

Here is the list, going from left to right and then top down.

Very top: Air blast pistol off compressor to clean out plug holes before removing plugs.

Next row:

Anti-seize (NOT for plugs, but for coil bolts and the bracket bolt by Cyl. #6
Electronic Contact Cleaner (for all the connectors I undid during the job)

Main row:

Dielectric grease: for coil boot contacts, plug wire contacts, and all connectors I undid (after contact cleaner and a compressed air blast)

Teflon Lube for the ends of the induction boot to keep it from sticking and preserve the ends which like to get dry and crack

1/2" T-Bar, best thing for plug wrench in under hood on back cyls.

1/2" ratchet with 14MM socket for breaking loose lower bolt on bracket by #6

5-80 ft-lb. torque wrench for plugs (set to 13 ft-lbs.)

1/2" breaker bar for breaking plugs loose

1/2"drive 5/8" plug socket on LOCKING 18" extension

3/8" drive ratchet with 12mm socket for bracket by #6

Hammer, to push said bracket to left and then back when done (easier than loosening lower bolt)

In-lb. torgue wrench set to 69 in-lb. for coil bolts

1/4" drive ratchet with short and long extensions with 10mm and 8mm sockets for induction boot clamps and coil bolts.

Flat screw driver for opening electrical connections and applying dielectric grease inside boots

18" length 3/8" inch fuel hose: Secret weapon to NEVER cross-thread a plug in your block. Use hose to start plug--feel is 100x more precise than you get with a wrench and if hose slips, that means you haven't started it right. I consider this an ABSOLUTE MUST HAVE/USE.

Shows used plugs laid out in sequence they were pulled so I can examine closely, compare all six, and look for any problems.

Just below, mostly hidden by plug box, circular wire-type plug gap tool for checking gap on new plugs. They are preset to 1.1mm, but I find one in ten is out a touch. Some say you cannot adjust these double-enders. Hogwash!! See page IG-4 of FSM chapter attached. Spec is .043" (1.1mm) My tool has .040" and .045" wires. I'm happy if gap is too small to pass .045" and lets .040" go through. Takes five seconds per plug.