JZiggy's "Grown Up" 4Runner Build
- Thread starter JZiggy
- Start date
fightman80
New member
Nice work on the mods man! I love these resto-mod projects! 
JZiggy
Senior Member
Hint: it's really not hard to change the bearings on your power steering and AC idler pulleys. Just take a punch and push back the metal hold the washer to the pulley, press the bearing out, press in a new one, replace the washer, and use a punch to push a little of the metal back over the washer.
Bearing is a 6301 type, I used Nachi brand. $5 on eBay. If anyone wants me to rebuild one for them I'm happy to do it if you pay for parts and shipping.
Bearing is a 6301 type, I used Nachi brand. $5 on eBay. If anyone wants me to rebuild one for them I'm happy to do it if you pay for parts and shipping.
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JZiggy
Senior Member
Last update for today: changed the factory fuel filter. With a little creativity is was not too bad but it is certainly not in a convenient spot. I also happened to have my alternator out of the way since I was changing it too, and that really helped with the access. I was able to get to both the front and back banjo bolts from the engine bay, did not have to go through the wheel well.
I figured I'd cut it open to see what it looked like in there too.
Last picture shows a pleat torn open revealing some sludgy stuff in there. After the fuel dried off the stuff looks like silt.
The filter change was done as PM with no current issues and changing it did not impact the engine performance. But taking a look inside the filter made me glad to have done it anyway.
I figured I'd cut it open to see what it looked like in there too.
Last picture shows a pleat torn open revealing some sludgy stuff in there. After the fuel dried off the stuff looks like silt.
The filter change was done as PM with no current issues and changing it did not impact the engine performance. But taking a look inside the filter made me glad to have done it anyway.
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JZiggy
Senior Member
I installed a 199mm Tundra brake upgrade this weekend. Boy the brakes feel great!
My base model 4Runner was equipped with the smaller front calipers and rear wheel cylinders designed for 15" wheels. The 16" wheel 4Runners came with larger hydraulics.
Front:
Original calipers = S12WE
199mm Tundras = S13WE (Thanks [MENTION=53337]SCRunner12[/MENTION] for these and for rebuilding them!)
The new OEM Tundra brake rotors (43512-0C011) were thicker and a slightly bigger diameter than the original ones. I had to tweak the dust shield back a little to make room for them, but it bit in there without much drama.
Rear:
Original wheel cylinders = 15/16" bore Aisin
New wheel cylinders = 1" bore Advics (rebranded Aisin)
Speed bleeders were also installed in both the calipers and the wheel cyls. This made bleeding MUCH easier.
Brakes lines front and rear also upgrades from original cracked rubber to StopTech stainless. Fitment was great, very happy with them.
Before & After
My base model 4Runner was equipped with the smaller front calipers and rear wheel cylinders designed for 15" wheels. The 16" wheel 4Runners came with larger hydraulics.
Front:
Original calipers = S12WE
199mm Tundras = S13WE (Thanks [MENTION=53337]SCRunner12[/MENTION] for these and for rebuilding them!)
The new OEM Tundra brake rotors (43512-0C011) were thicker and a slightly bigger diameter than the original ones. I had to tweak the dust shield back a little to make room for them, but it bit in there without much drama.
Rear:
Original wheel cylinders = 15/16" bore Aisin
New wheel cylinders = 1" bore Advics (rebranded Aisin)
Speed bleeders were also installed in both the calipers and the wheel cyls. This made bleeding MUCH easier.
Brakes lines front and rear also upgrades from original cracked rubber to StopTech stainless. Fitment was great, very happy with them.
Before & After
JZiggy
Senior Member
Regarding the TBU for base model 4Runners, I wanted to make a comment about pedal effort.
Your brake system is a hydraulic lever. The master cylinder has a 1" diameter piston and the effective area of the calipers and wheel cylinders it much greater, approximately 20:1 This is analogous to mechanical leverage (pull on a 1" wrench vs. a 20" long wrench).
The hydraulics don't care how big the caliper or the rotors are, only the size of the pistons. 4Runners with 15" wheels had calipers with 43mm pistons (S12xx casting) but 16" wheelers had 45mm pistons (S13xx casting). The 199mm and 231mm Tundra calipers both has the 45mm pistons. So if you upgrade from an S13xx to another S13xx casting caliper your hydraulic advantage has not changed.
I'll spare you the math, but I found that going from S12 to S13 calipers and from 15/16" to 1" wheel cylinders increases the hydraulic leverage by 10%. I found, even after thorough bleeding, that the pedal is softer. Not spongy, but just that it takes less force to actuate the brakes. This is why, the lever is 10% longer.
Your brake system is a hydraulic lever. The master cylinder has a 1" diameter piston and the effective area of the calipers and wheel cylinders it much greater, approximately 20:1 This is analogous to mechanical leverage (pull on a 1" wrench vs. a 20" long wrench).
The hydraulics don't care how big the caliper or the rotors are, only the size of the pistons. 4Runners with 15" wheels had calipers with 43mm pistons (S12xx casting) but 16" wheelers had 45mm pistons (S13xx casting). The 199mm and 231mm Tundra calipers both has the 45mm pistons. So if you upgrade from an S13xx to another S13xx casting caliper your hydraulic advantage has not changed.
I'll spare you the math, but I found that going from S12 to S13 calipers and from 15/16" to 1" wheel cylinders increases the hydraulic leverage by 10%. I found, even after thorough bleeding, that the pedal is softer. Not spongy, but just that it takes less force to actuate the brakes. This is why, the lever is 10% longer.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Replaced my AC clutch bearing. Looked easy but getting the pulley off the front was a major pain in the butt. I ended up having to pull the radiator to get at the snap ring.
Lots of wiggling back and forth until the pulley came off
Front of compressor without the pulley
Pressing it out
Plop
Old and new bearings, both Nachi
New bearing pressed in, staked the six points with a punch in the arbor press
Lots of wiggling back and forth until the pulley came off
Front of compressor without the pulley
Pressing it out
Plop
Old and new bearings, both Nachi
New bearing pressed in, staked the six points with a punch in the arbor press
JZiggy
Senior Member
The 96-00 4Runners do not come with proper hardware to anchor the strap for forward-facing child car seats. The 01-02 had rear seats with an added bracket on the frame for this. I borrowed the idea from this Overland writeup to swap out seat frames to get this functionality.
I used these Drake hog ring pliers
Original frame on left, new frame on right
The magic bracket
- Pull off back seats
- Clip hog rings, remove fabric cover
- Swap frames that are nestled into the foam
- Reinstall fabric cover
- Install new hog rings
- Cut rectangular holes in seat backs to allow the plastic bracket covers to fit in
Finished product
edit: forgot to mention, thanks to [MENTION=158595]xxJAMxx[/MENTION] for the seat frames! It was awesome of you to pack them up and ship them to me.
I used these Drake hog ring pliers
Original frame on left, new frame on right
The magic bracket
- Pull off back seats
- Clip hog rings, remove fabric cover
- Swap frames that are nestled into the foam
- Reinstall fabric cover
- Install new hog rings
- Cut rectangular holes in seat backs to allow the plastic bracket covers to fit in
Finished product
edit: forgot to mention, thanks to [MENTION=158595]xxJAMxx[/MENTION] for the seat frames! It was awesome of you to pack them up and ship them to me.
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theesotericone
New member
It's a bunch of shit. Half the really good write ups are now pictureless because of photobuckets new policies. Not cool man.
Road Bull
Senior Member
Yeah, that kills me. I start researching a mod I need to do, or a useful write-up. I find something promising with a good deal of thought and description detailing the pictures, only to not have any pics to reference. Weak-sauce...:smashputer:
habanero
Senior Member
Nearly 1400 pics in my build thread....feeling your pain! At least when you download them off the bucket they retain their name, making it easier to find and replace. $400 extortion fee.....nope.
Thanks for going through the trouble of rebuilding your thfead, it's very much appreciated.
Thanks for going through the trouble of rebuilding your thfead, it's very much appreciated.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Photobucket has been circling in the bowl for years now and it's finally gone where all turds eventually go.
Thread rebuild finally finished. Only 7 measly pages for me, I shudder to think how much time it will take you folks with big build threads (like [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION]) !
Thread rebuild finally finished. Only 7 measly pages for me, I shudder to think how much time it will take you folks with big build threads (like [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION]) !
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habanero
Senior Member
JZiggy
Senior Member
Airlift 1000 kit installed along with Timbren rear bump stops. I'm planning to load this puppy up with a lot of gear for camping and a hitch carrier. So far at low pressure the ride is excellent.
The Timbrens can also be used for overload situations but I installed them without the risers. They'll just be a cushier bumpstop than the factory ones.
The Timbrens can also be used for overload situations but I installed them without the risers. They'll just be a cushier bumpstop than the factory ones.
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