Instrument Cluster warning Icons all lit-up!

Hi Tech-Team

I've been getting quite a few PM's and on-forum questions about issues with the (Gen-5, 2010-2019) 4Runner instrument cluster warning icons e.g., ABS, Wheel Slip control, A-Trac, Steering, VSC, Air-Bags, Tach-o-meter & Speed-o-meter stopped working, Dash illumination back-lighting went out...etc!

Now I do understand the frustration that these things create; especially when the dealership that sold you the 4Runner either... doesn't know what's going on with your truck, or, blames the troubles on you because you've added a few amenities like LEDs' or a new audio system; they tried that on me but I was able to prove them wrong... it still didn't help me with warranty issues!

I bought my 2012 LE brand new and in cash; but now I'm their worst customer, ugh! There are only a few reasons that the IC icons are on: (1) a bad sensor, sensor wire, or the parameters that the related sensor is measuring. This type of warning (e.g., Check Engine) should be thoroughly tested with a scanner/TechStream tool!

(2) IMPORTANT: If all of the warnings on the Instrument cluster are totally unrelated (for example): 4-Low, Air-Bags, ABS, Security system,, are ALL on together, then the warnings (Likely) are not relevant and are being generated by the "Main body ECU Compu network" itself!

At this point, the MB-ECU needs to be checked because that's a symptom of an ecu that has lost a power source or a ground source; but most commonly the 12V power source has been lost! The MB-ECU is in command of approximately 26 worker ecu's on the LE, and 27 ecu's on the TE (depending on the option pkg)!

And "I think there are seven ecu fuses total" and if one fuse is lost/blown, it could prevent communication through the CAN-bus system, which could potentially cause a warning system failure; at least theoretically!

One more thing that may create false warnings on the cluster: (3) Ambient Environment! Just like any other computer, the ECU's are genuine computers, (and can be sensitive to it's ambient environment) having a 'a Registry, a File system, History logs, temporary files' (which will often get full or corrupted), compromising RAM/Performance!

And my truck did it tonight! I started it up after my Niece's basketball game, ambient temp was about 39 deg F. After starting up, I watched the IC, and the 4-Low, ABS, and Wheel slippage icons stayed on. I restarted the truck (just out of curiosity), and they ALL went out.

Now my truck will sit in the driveway for days w/o being used or started up; sometimes in 6 deg F ambient temps, cuz I use a different vehicle for work, and I'm sure that this contributes to the trouble with the electronics misbehavior! I am writing this up in hopes to help some of you who believe that there's something suspiciously wrong with this behavior, but it's "Perfectly Normal"... as long as you know what's causing it! 'Best to you ALL',

rig!

Old Red said:

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION], that's weird! Were you not just helping someone that had this happen almost a week or two ago lol?

Regardless, your post should be a sticky at the top of the 5th gen. section.

Click to expand...

Hi (again) Old Red Lol!

Yes, last week, and the week before that...etc! That's exactly why I thought to address this very common ECU issue! I went through the very same thing when I bought my LE, and 'NO ONE' could help me, not the dealership where I bought it (they had never seen these symptoms), not the local auto shops near where I live, cuz they didn't have the late model software at the time to communicate with our ecu's yet.

So I was 'On-my-own' to straighten it out! But I was so determined to understand... "why me(?)"! The truck was all paid for, yet I had nothing to be proud of because of this creepy icon issue! But maybe that was a good thing that happened to me , because perhaps I can use my experience with this to help someone else so they can enjoy their New (or new to them) 4Runners! Thanks for your kind comments [MENTION=150567]Old Red[/MENTION] , 'Best to you',

rig

Hi Team,

There are just a few things that I'd like to go over with you so when ecu/dash warning icons start to show up on the "Instrument Cluster" (IC), you'll be way ahead of it, and know exactly what to do about it!

First, I'd like to go over the 'Power Distribution' schematic (below) just a lil'! Now you don't need to understand a whole lot of Advanced electrical schemes to follow along... this is structured for 'Beginners', okay(?) lol!

On the wiring distribution print below, there are four pink circles with arrows. There's the 'Short-pin', the 'Main body ECU 10A fuse', the 'Dome-light', and a list of your truck's electrical systems that the MB-ECU presides over/controls!



I'll start with the 'Short-pin' above! The short-pin, although it resembles a fuse... it's not! It's ONLY purpose is so that the electrical power that feeds ALL of the ecu's and the 'Dome light' can be disconnected while the new truck is being transported from the factory in Japan, to wherever it's going e.g., the USA, Canada, the UK...etc!

These trucks may be stored for extended periods of time, so just the dome light left on could potentially cause a problem when it ultimately reaches it's final destination; hence, the short-pin, can be pulled out BEFORE it leaves the factory; see above:

Now Below... is the 'Main Relay/fusebox directory cover'. It's there to assist you in finding a fuse or a relay at a glance when problems arise! I've got pink arrows on the photo to highlight the short-pin and the Main body ECU 10A fuse!

Pulling the short-pin will disable almost everything that you're used to working without thought, including the alarm system and the courtesy lighting system! This can also be used to do a 'MASTER RESET' when anyone of those systems listed on the power distribution diagram above is having issues.

NOTICE:
When you pull the ECU fuse or the Short-pin, (after reinstalling it after a period of time), you'll notice a DOT on the compass on the left-side of the Letter that represents the direction (e.g., N, N.E., S, S.W.),...etc! It'll require a Deviation Calibration/Circle Calibration procedure to be performed... it's very easy (takes only 5 minutes); it's in the owner's manual (mine is on pg 476-477, 2012 4Runner... it may be different for yours)!



I know I haven't covered everything that you may want to know about, but feel free to post your difficulties or questions, if I can help you, that's what we're all here for! I hope you will find something in this write-up that may be helpful to you! 'Best to you team',

rig

"Deviation Calibration/Circle Calibration" Instructions

Hi Tech-Team

I wanted to share the "How to" wrt the "Deviation Calibration" procedure just in case you find yourself with the little DOT to the left of the Direction symbol on your compass display screen... it's really easy!

If you see a DOT beside the direction symbol e.g., .N then you need to perform a "Deviation calibration & Circle calibration".


You first need to go to a place where you can drive the truck in a circle; like around a monument or a parking lot where there are no other cars!

Pull over. Turn on the parking lights. Now, locate the "Mode Button"... it has a down facing arrow on it. Press and hold the button in for six seconds. A number from 1 to 15 will appear on screen. Locate where you live on the map below; the number is just LEFT of the line that goes through your area (in the United States), my number is #12 since I live in Jersey!





Use the "Mode Button" (#1 pictured above) to scroll through the numbers. When you're at the desired number of the state that you live in, press and hold the SET button. Your "Deviation calibration" is done! Now press and hold the mode button again; that will put you in "Circle Calibration" mode.

You should see just the letter of the (approximate) direction that you're facing. Now begin your circle. You can even circle the block you live in, as long as you complete it within two minutes! As you pass your starting point, the DOT will disappear; "Your done"! Hope this helps to simplify the procedure! 'Best',

rig

The strangest thing happened to me yesterday...

My ABS, 4-Low, and Slip-indicator came on! I was taking care of some business for about three hours, so I decided to pull the 10A MB-ECU fuse out to try and master RESET the ecu. Everything seemed fine; most of the way home. But, before I could reach my town, about 10 miles, they came back on; I must have jinxed myself when I wrote the subject up a few days ago, lol!

So I decided to pull the NEG battery cable off the battery and leave it off til morning... which would give it plenty of time to RESET! Today I went out to the truck, expecting "ALL-TO-BE-WELL" since the truck has only 22,400 miles on it, and it's never had any work done involving the spindles, the shocks, or the upper or LCA's!

To my surprise, those darn IC icons came back on! I brought out my tech-stream cable & laptop, but... "NO COMMUNICATION!" Okay... So now I know that the MB-ECU has lost it's power source. I got out my "Field-Piece" multi-meter and checked the 10A ECU fuse; connected the NEG to the battery and shoved the POS lead onto the fuse (line-side & load-side), and it had power on both sides!

I did the same thing to the short-pin, and it was good! Now I was thinking... I'm good at the short-pin and the 10A ecu fuse... hummmm(?)! I know it's not getting fed, but why...? Then it hit me! Even though I've got power on the top of the short-pin and the 10A fuse, it doesn't mean there's power down in the contacts! I pulled the 10A fuse out, and replaced it with one of the spares in the main relay/fusebox, and... you'll never guess... The IC icons all went out!

Now I did check the fuse for continuity with the ohm meter, and it checked good, so that was that! But it didn't occur to me that the blades may be dirty! That's the reason I'm posting this. You may have a similar problem where the fuses are good but the ecu's aren't getting power fed! try a spare fuse, any size 10 or more (just for testing). I think I'll get some electrical contact cleaner to have on hand, or some WD-40 to displace moisture cuz I think that's what's going on!

rig, cheers!

rigtec -

I'm fighting the same issue on on 2012 SR5 and no matter what I've tried, the dumb indicator lights (ABS/Traction/Steering) come back on eventually. Did you have any luck with your issues? The longest I got the lights to stay off was 7 days (when I replaced the 10A ECU fuse) but they're back...

wheelgun said:

rigtec -

I'm fighting the same issue on on 2012 SR5 and no matter what I've tried, the dumb indicator lights (ABS/Traction/Steering) come back on eventually. Did you have any luck with your issues? The longest I got the lights to stay off was 7 days (when I replaced the 10A ECU fuse) but they're back...

Click to expand...

Hi wheelgun,

Mine is fixed! Have you performed a "Center point steering calibration" or a "YAW Rate acceleration sensor calibration" as of yet? That's likely the cause of your issues too! Here's a link to how it's done:>> Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration

Follow these directions closely and those lights should go out (and the speed-o-meter/Tach-o-meter will come back); if that issue plagued your truck as it did mine!

rig, cheers!

Christmas tree lights in the cluster

Bottom line... Check the vehicle battery.
I have a 2015 SR5 Premium. Just started giving me the lights at 102,200 miles. I changed the 10Amp fuse and it was good for about 5 days. Then came the lights, again... This time with a twist... High Transmission Fluid Temperature...
Talk about raising the Pucker Factor...

Went to my old school mechanic... Computer not throwing out any codes.

Checked the alternator and it's perfect.
Checked the battery... It's in the yellow, approaching red.

Put new battery in...

All good.

I'll let you know in a week...

hiflyer767 said:

Bottom line... Check the vehicle battery.
I have a 2015 SR5 Premium. Just started giving me the lights at 102,200 miles. I changed the 10Amp fuse and it was good for about 5 days. Then came the lights, again... This time with a twist... High Transmission Fluid Temperature...
Talk about raising the Pucker Factor...

Went to my old school mechanic... Computer not throwing out any codes.

Checked the alternator and it's perfect.
Checked the battery... It's in the yellow, approaching red.

Put new battery in...

All good.

I'll let you know in a week...

Click to expand...

Further Update: It came on one additional time.>My mechanic sent me to a friend of his who's an electrical system guru. It seems my Accessorides Remote Start is drawing one more volt, on occasion. I'm thinking it may be a loose wire connector that may cause a surge. I'm FAR from an electrician, but I am pulling wild guesses from the dark side of my moon....

Any other guesses? It's been behaving otherwise ...

hiflyer767 said:

Further Update: It came on one additional time.>My mechanic sent me to a friend of his who's an electrical system guru. It seems my Accessorides Remote Start is drawing one more volt, on occasion. I'm thinking it may be a loose wire connector that may cause a surge. I'm FAR from an electrician, but I am pulling wild guesses from the dark side of my moon....

Any other guesses? It's been behaving otherwise ...

Click to expand...

Did you end up figuring out the issue?

MTN4RNR said:

Did you end up figuring out the issue?

Click to expand...

I believe I did./
1: I replaced the vehicle battery.
2: I repositioned the excess wires for the Aftermarket Remote Start so that they are no longer being tagged by my size 12 boots when I drive...

Not an issue since...and that was back in September.

Thank you, I am glad for your information. It provides a better path than I was on.
I had many lights on, flashing, in the past. I reset my ZPC, ZeroPointCalibration, and all went out and life was grand. I wrote myself a procedure as the Toyota procedure didn't quite work. I do have a gen V Trail, 2012 so that might be why.

Now I have a multitude of dash lights flashing, ZPC did not work, had to try. OBD II shows no alarms, runs smooth.
Two issues though besides alarm lights, no 4wd or low range possible.
Time to check fuses, grounds, and possible bad connection or disconnected wires.

When repaired will post for others in future.

tonytoshiba said:

Thank you, I am glad for your information. It provides a better path than I was on.
I had many lights on, flashing, in the past. I reset my ZPC, ZeroPointCalibration, and all went out and life was grand. I wrote myself a procedure as the Toyota procedure didn't quite work. I do have a gen V Trail, 2012 so that might be why.

Now I have a multitude of dash lights flashing, ZPC did not work, had to try. OBD II shows no alarms, runs smooth.
Two issues though besides alarm lights, no 4wd or low range possible.
Time to check fuses, grounds, and possible bad connection or disconnected wires.

When repaired will post for others in future.

Click to expand...

Hi tonytoshiba,

Have you performed a "Center point steering calibration" or a "YAW Rate acceleration sensor calibration" as of yet? That's likely the cause of your issues too! Here's a link to how it's done:>> Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration below:

Yaw Rate and Acceleration Sensor Zero Point Calibration

Follow these directions closely and those lights should go out (and the speed-o-meter/Tach-o-meter will come back); if that issue plagued your truck as it did mine!

rig, cheers!