3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

Two days ago I put PB Blaster on the rusty upper nut of the front sway bar link. Today I tried to spin it off and was surprised how easily it moved. Let it soak for a couple days if needed. Also some people use 50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid. I'll be doing my clutch at some point in the future and for getting those bolts off I'll be soaking them for weeks beforehand and torching each one before I even attempt to turn it. Cannot have one of those break.

John1992 said:

Thank you for your response. After removing the panels from around the steering wheel and stereo console, I found a lot of wire that were cut off and taped. The rear window switch is not even connected. I could not even find the wire connection that goes to the rear window switch. Does anyone have a diagram to show which wire goes where?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I went to my local public library and the librarian was able to print out several wiring schematics that I needed.

Thanks for all the great videos Tim!

dmppdx said:

Thanks for all the great videos Tim!

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You're very welcome!

any one got the best advice to sell a 4runner, ive been a member here for years and i cant post in the for sale section ={

nek0_ said:

any one got the best advice to sell a 4runner, ive been a member here for years and i cant post in the for sale section ={

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List it for sale on Craigslist.

mtbtim said:

Good to hear. Thanks!

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One other question... Well probably a lot more, but one more for now, haha...

In reviewing your rear axle seal replacement video, I noticed that you only show two bearing retainers when listing the parts needed. Did you reuse the outer retainers (seated against the bearing) on each side?

If I understand correctly, the purpose of that retainer is to keep the bearing from walking on the axle shaft over time, and it doesn't actually seal against another surface (like the inner retainer), and so the machined surface of the outer retainer shouldn't be compromised over time.

So I suppose the outer retainer could be reused, although I would have thought those would have been replaced along with all the other parts.

So correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand, I will need to purchase four of those retainers in order to do both axle shafts, assuming they are the same part number. Or... reuse the outer retainers.

Thanks,
Ken

Ken-Cade said:

One other question... Well probably a lot more, but one more for now, haha...

In reviewing your rear axle seal replacement video, I noticed that you only show two bearing retainers when listing the parts needed. Did you reuse the outer retainers (seated against the bearing) on each side?

If I understand correctly, the purpose of that retainer is to keep the bearing from walking on the axle shaft over time, and it doesn't actually seal against another surface (like the inner retainer), and so the machined surface of the outer retainer shouldn't be compromised over time.

So I suppose the outer retainer could be reused, although I would have thought those would have been replaced along with all the other parts.

So correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand, I will need to purchase four of those retainers in order to do both axle shafts, assuming they are the same part number. Or... reuse the outer retainers.

Thanks,
Ken

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Hey Ken, read the video description of the original video. I cover how you can save money on parts. You can reuse both retainers and ABS gear on each axle saving yourself around $150 based off online pricing.

mtbtim said:

Hey Ken, read the video description of the original video. I cover how you can save money on parts. You can reuse both retainers and ABS gear on each axle saving yourself around $150 based off online pricing.

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Okay, thanks! I thought as much, just wanted to double check!

2,457,300

What might that number be?

Views!!! As of today... nearly 2.5 M. Wow. 118 videos in total, one being for a Subaru (53k), which is included in that number.

One of my daughters is adding decimals in school now, so guess what I had her do? I double-checked (yes, a pain), and that number is correct...

Pretty impressive Tim and Sean.

I just noticed the video on "ECGS Clamshell CV Axle Bushing Install". With a lift just done, I think I will do this next or soon... Thanks guys!

Engine Ignition Timing Check / Timing Belt Inspection

Hey Dudes,

This video shows you how to check your engine ignition timing and also shows you how you can do an inspection of your timing belt.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xHRfAL1Se9c" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Random Stall

My 2001 4Runner died on me while driving home today. I tried to start it but it wouldn't even crank ( No click from relay). I tried again 10 minutes later and it started right up. No codes and it is running normal now. Any ideas on what it might be?

ryanrmurray02 said:

My 2001 4Runner died on me while driving home today. I tried to start it but it wouldn't even crank ( No click from relay). I tried again 10 minutes later and it started right up. No codes and it is running normal now. Any ideas on what it might be?

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I would start with simple things like checking your battery terminal connections making sure they are clean, free of corrosion and tight. Make sure your battery is properly braced and not sliding around. Check to make sure your grounds are also free of corrosion and tight. There's no doubt this is an electrical problem and the fact it's intermittent sounds like a bad connection.

General Maintenance question!

Hi guys, I am really sorry for what is going to be a majorly n00b post. I recently acquired a 2000 SR5 2WD from my father. He has taken reasonably good care of the car. It has 176,000 miles on it and I would like to take it as far as it can go.

The problem is that I am not very knowledgeable about cars.

Basically, I just want to know what sort of preventative maintenance I should undergo in order to make sure everything is on the up and up. I really don't want to get hosed by a dealer, but it's going to be a stretch for me to do much past very basic repairs.

I recently put new tires on it, got the oil changed, and had the serpentine belt replaced (it broke on me).

I do not believe the timing belt or water pump has ever been replaced. Should I ensure replacements of these parts occur? Further, during the oil change the mechanic told me that the brake pads and rotors should be replaced (for $311 + tax) and that the inner tie rods have "extra movement" and could be replaced (for $368 + tax). Are these reasonable repairs?

Any other preventative procedures I should have done? Thank you everyone for your wealth of knowledge.

Morkai said:

Hi guys, I am really sorry for what is going to be a majorly n00b post. I recently acquired a 2000 SR5 2WD from my father. He has taken reasonably good care of the car. It has 176,000 miles on it and I would like to take it as far as it can go.

The problem is that I am not very knowledgeable about cars.

Basically, I just want to know what sort of preventative maintenance I should undergo in order to make sure everything is on the up and up. I really don't want to get hosed by a dealer, but it's going to be a stretch for me to do much past very basic repairs.

I recently put new tires on it, got the oil changed, and had the serpentine belt replaced (it broke on me).

I do not believe the timing belt or water pump has ever been replaced. Should I ensure replacements of these parts occur? Further, during the oil change the mechanic told me that the brake pads and rotors should be replaced (for $311 + tax) and that the inner tie rods have "extra movement" and could be replaced (for $368 + tax). Are these reasonable repairs?

Any other preventative procedures I should have done? Thank you everyone for your wealth of knowledge.

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Our videos will get you very far if you're willing to invest in some tools and have the patience to do your own wrenching. It doesn't matter if you haven't wrenched much in the past. This is something you can learn if you're willing. Replacing rotors and pads is simple. You could use our Tundra Brake Upgrade video to see mostly how to do this job. Since you're not replacing calipers, you would first want to suck some of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir because you'll need to compress the caliper pistons in fully so you can fit the new pads in and that brake fluid needs somewhere to go. Sucking some out will prevent you from overflowing your reservoir. To compress the caliper pistons back in, you could a large channel locks. You keep the brake pad in on the side you're compressing and put a rag between the channel lock jaws and the caliper to protect the caliper from being gouged by the serrated teeth. Once you have the pistons of the both sides of the calipers retracted, you can put the caliper back on and insert the pads like we show in the TBU video. I recommend you go with OEM Toyota pads. You can reuse the shims and hopefully somebody didn't remove them on a previous brake job. As for rotors, going OEM Toyota is a little pricey so you could save some money by buying some premium ones from Napa. But, your rotors can most likely be resurfaced at a machine or auto shop that has a brake lathe and you can save yourself some money and keep your OEM Toyota rotors if that's what's still on the rig. I'm guessing that the $311 quote is not for OEM replacement parts but you could ask them to make sure. If they are actually using Toyota rotors and pads, the price they gave you is actually a very fair price.

As for the inner tie rods, are you noticing anything weird with your steering? Shops lots of times will recommend things that don't necessarily need doing. OEM inner tie rods are very pricey. But, if you wanted to replace them yourself, we have a video for that as well. It does take special tools though. With the high price of inner tie rods, if it were me, I'd just replace the whole steering rack which comes with new inner tie rods. A whole new steering rack with the inner tie rods is $560 (online pricing from Camelback Toyota). The inner tie rods are $160 each, total $320. Knowing what OEM tie rods run, I'm also doubting the price they quoted you is for OEM replacement parts. But, something tells me this isn't a job that you have to do right now.

Go through our video library and you'll find lots of helpful information. I would suggest you start with our 30,000 mile service video. The lighting for that video is a little poor but you'll see how to renew all the fluids on your rig, grease your driveshaft, inspect your brakes and replace the air filter.

I could go on and on but I'm getting tired of typing. Spend the time doing some research and ask questions when you get stuck. I hope you take on the challenge of doing your own wrenching because you'll learn a lot and save yourself a ton of money.

Morkai said:

I do not believe the timing belt or water pump has ever been replaced. Should I ensure replacements of these parts occur?

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I don't think anyone has answered this yet, but yes you should prioritize having the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump replaced sooner than later.

really helpful thank you

Thank you everyone for your replies!

I do have one or two more questions... while I am trying to quickly learn so that I can do these repairs myself going forward, necessity dictates that I utilize a mechanic for this full overhaul at the moment.

Here is what has been done and what I am having done on Tuesday on my 2000 Auto 2WD SR5. It has 179k miles on it, and none of the below have ever been touched:

Inner tie rods replaced (Sorry Tim, happened before your post!) - DONE
New rotors + pads - DONE
Timing belt replacement - TUES
Water pump replacement - TUES
Spark plug replacement - TUES
Radiator replacement - TUES

The total is going to be about $1700, including parts + labor. My question is this: Is there anything else I should have the mechanic look while all this is getting done? Also, should any of these parts definitely be OEM or is whatever they use going to be okay? Anything I can do to decrease cost (buy parts myself)?

I have heard that maybe the lower ball joints should be replaced, but it's been a pavement warrior her whole life. Unnecessary? The ride is quite rough - should I look into new shocks?

Unfortunately, because me and my girlfriend work from home, this is our only car. I don't have any mechanical skills and we need it to run and run for a long while, which necessitates the use of a mechanic for the time being.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Morkai said:

Thank you everyone for your replies!

I do have one or two more questions... while I am trying to quickly learn so that I can do these repairs myself going forward, necessity dictates that I utilize a mechanic for this full overhaul at the moment.

Here is what has been done and what I am having done on Tuesday on my 2000 Auto 2WD SR5. It has 179k miles on it, and none of the below have ever been touched:

Inner tie rods replaced (Sorry Tim, happened before your post!) - DONE
New rotors + pads - DONE
Timing belt replacement - TUES
Water pump replacement - TUES
Spark plug replacement - TUES
Radiator replacement - TUES

The total is going to be about $1700, including parts + labor. My question is this: Is there anything else I should have the mechanic look while all this is getting done? Also, should any of these parts definitely be OEM or is whatever they use going to be okay? Anything I can do to decrease cost (buy parts myself)?

I have heard that maybe the lower ball joints should be replaced, but it's been a pavement warrior her whole life. Unnecessary? The ride is quite rough - should I look into new shocks?

Unfortunately, because me and my girlfriend work from home, this is our only car. I don't have any mechanical skills and we need it to run and run for a long while, which necessitates the use of a mechanic for the time being.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

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Ball Joints should be replaced with OEM Toyota ball joints regardless of how the truck was used. It is a stressed part that is common to fail and when it does it can cause a chain reaction of damage.

Check your tire pressure. I would make sure it is 32 or so and not max psi which some shops do. High psi can cause a rough ride. These trucks tend to ride rather plush even with worn shocks.

Mudeprived said:

Ball Joints should be replaced with OEM Toyota ball joints regardless of how the truck was used. It is a stressed part that is common to fail and when it does it can cause a chain reaction of damage.

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Hoo boy... What is that going to run me?

Thanks!